Have them order extra 3” filler stock and create a U shaped frame for the sink aligned with the cabinet doors. It will look custom if they keep the reveals aligned with the adjacent doors

Here’s a shoutout to our forum sink and counter pro, Joseph Corlett. He should be able to advise you.

@HALLETT & Co.Thank you! So, the filler stock would sit within that current recess around the sink and flush with the doors around it in that case? The sink would just have to pull forward a bit if we wanted it to appear more like it extended beyond cabinetry, I suppose.

Yes exactly. I like the sink more forward than you are showing it anyhow- typically I have the radius of the curve at the top line up with the face of the counter.

I would not do anything until the plumbing is installed. Btw, where is it?

@HALLETT & Co. Very helpful, thank you! @wacokid the sink is installed in the kitchen and the kitchen is in Chicago.

I think she meant where is the plumbing for the sink. lol.........

I actually meant the water lines and drain? Are they in the sink cabinet and just not in the picture? Or are you having A wall mounted faucet? I only mention this because your sink is against the wall and there is no room for the water lines if they are coming from under the cabinet.

@wacokid Shoot, plumbing was actually going to be my next guess. It will be under the sink in the cabinet but I don't think they have it in place yet. And, if I'm recalling correctly, I think there is actually room behind the sink for the faucet but you just can't tell from the perspective. Although, I will definitely double-check that next time I'm over there.

I‘m sure it will turn out great. The cabinets in the picture are nice, post pics when you finish. Good luck.👍

I'd try some caulk first; you'd be amazed at how gaps can disappear. If that didn't fly, maybe some small molding.

Order another door, rip the style, and stick it to the cabinet front in alignment with the lower door. I have to do this regularly; it looks fine. Better than if it were cut right actually.

If none of these are acceptable, order a new sink base cabinet. When it arrives, take off the doors and with blocking against the back of the cabinet front, smack the front off with a hammer. Using the same procedure, smack the existing front off. Scribe the new front, carefully this time, tap it into place, hot melt it, and reinstall the doors.

@Joseph Corlett, LLC Thank you! I'm sure we'll at least try the caulk before we rule it out.
And pulling the sink further forward could help too. They caulked it in place right where the edge curves in which may be making squared off corners look worse than they are.
Trying to understand your door solution based on the image you shared, though. I order just one new sink base door, the same size? Or one door large enough to cover the width of the sink base cabinet when laid horizontally?

Get a drawer front the same width as the outsides of the doors below and as high as the fronts beside the sink with the appropriate reveal below it. Cut to fit over gaps.

Of course like above, try caulk first.

@HALLETT & Co. A couple follow-up questions for you after speaking to our cabinet rep about the option. The filler stock would be several different pieces in order to create the U shape, correct? Wouldn't you see seams where they come together since it's a painted cabinet or have I understood it incorrectly? Have you seen/done that type of installation in the past with good results? Thank you!

imagine a drawer front that is cut to fit flush around your sink in a U. one piece, no seams, careful cutting.

Shana: You need a door large enough to rip and crosscut (2) new returned ends.

That looks like a fire clay sink. When they are fired they actually warp a bit, no two are the same, and sometimes they can even expand past the desired size. That said, some look better than others.

Don't expect to top to be perfectly flush, there is almost always a low corner, it's typical.

The sink should be sticking out the depth of the counter top overhang, usually 1 1/2", that moves the radius out from the cut as well.

Caulk can do wonders, you can also use filler material and pocket screw together a u shape and the scribe it to the sink for a tight fit.. +/- 1/16" then before you mount it, sand and paint it as 1 piece, seal it with a clean caulk and Boom, custom look with semi custom cabinets.

Let me know if any of that helped, we run into these a lot.

The sink should be pulled forward enough that the returned ends butt to the straight, not the curved, part of the sink. If the sink lands past the edge of the top, it will be fine.

The manufacturer we ordered our cabinets from does make a drawer front that would be appropriately sized to recut the sink template from and affix to the front of the base cabinet around the sink. Barring a big improvement after its cauked, which hasn't been done yet, I plan to take that approach so thank you very much for the ideas! If anyone knows a skilled carpenter in the Chicago area who would be willing to let me hire him/her to cut the sink outline in the drawer front, please let me know!

Great! Hopefully it can be expedited.

Why can’t your contractor do it? Send a better guy (or gal), template it first using cardboard, then cut the final. It really isn’t that hard- just fussy. You can’t send the framing crew...

@HALLETT & Co. Okay, good advice! My contractor is washing his hands of it. I think I may even have to do the caulking step myself at this point too. I definitely wouldn't trust myself to do the templating/cutting piece of it though..

That won’t be an easy cut. If you could find a company that uses a computerized cutting device that would be ideal? I would also wait until everything is finished and see how the sink looks as is. You can always add the drawer later. Good luck.

see if you can return the farm sink and get a kohler farm sink, it will solve the problem in the front and also where the faucet placement will be

Apron-front Kitchen Sinks | Kitchen | KOHLER

www.us.kohler.com › browse › kitchen-kitchen-sinks

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@Dayspring Construction - Kitchen and Baths I'm already outside the return window on the sink I purchased, unfortunately. I wish I had gone the route you suggested in hindsight though. For now they have caulked the gap and it looks okay for the time being. I'm planning to just have them wrap up their work here and if I decide I can't live with the caulk solution, I'll purchase the slab drawer front and hire someone else to cut and affix it around the front of the existing sink later.