Acer circinatum not blooming

6 years ago

We had two Acer circinatum 'pacific fire' trees planted last July under the shade of a 50+ foot ash tree that has since been cut down due to disease. They were transplanted to a full shade area to avoid being damaged during tree removal. I chose the full shade spot because even under the dappled shade of the ash, both trees experienced leaf scorch.

they've been in they're new home since mid- January. There is no sign of blooming, not even a bud. one of the trees has black tips.

What went wrong? How can I save these trees and help them bloom?

Featured Answer

floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK

6 years ago

Do you mean bloom or do you mean leaf out? Acers don't generally bloom until they are more mature than yours and the flowers aren't usually the main reason they're grown anyway. Your Acer cultivar is principally grown for its leaf colour.

If you bend a twig is it supple or does it snap easily? If you rub off a bud does it crumble or is it green and soft inside? I'm afraid that from the pictures it doesn't look too hopeful.

If they are alive and they continue to grow they'll need to be moved since they are too close to the fence.

Do you know what the ash died of? Apparently this Acer is prone to Verticillium Wilt and Honey Fungus.

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Comments (7)

bengz6westmd
6 years ago
In zone9 that prb'ly should be doing something by now.....
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gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
6 years ago
Siting in 'full shade' will certainly delay leaf out. My Asian maples in more shade are much later to leaf out than those in full sun.

And I'm not sure full shade is needed. The trees may experience some leaf scorch initially but will grow out of it as they become acclimated. And they will not develop the red stem color they are known for in full shade......that needs sun!!

One other issue that you should be aware of. The black tips on some of the stems are very likely an indication of Pseudomonas blight. Colored stemmed Asian maples (and Acer circinatum is morphologically grouped with the Asian maples) are genetically predisposed to this pathogen, although any maple can get it. You need to prune these out ASAP, making sure to disinfect your pruners after every cut. Most recommendations instruct to take back to at least 6" of clear tissue below the sign of infection.

And there ARE buds on the trees......they just do not look as plump and as healthy as they should be for a tree that should be getting ready to leaf out
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
6 years ago
you seem to indicate they were installed .... but then you talk of them being moved .... who did that??? .. and how was it done ...

if you have a warranty .. talk to your seller ... let us know what they say ...

how did you water them after planting??? .. and after transplant ...

ken
Parissa (zone 9b)
Original Author
6 years ago
Yes, I mean leaf out.

gardengal, do you think they would tolerate full sun? And if so, would they survive another transplant? If you think I should leave them where they are, should I feed them with a fertilizer to help them leaf out sooner? Thanks for your help! Pruning them today!
gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
Yes, I would move them........as mentioned, they are too close to the fence and they really will develop better and with more stem color in more sun (they are typically planted in predominantly sun here). It doesn't have to be full sun and ideally early day sun and late afternoon shade would be best and limit scorch or sunburn. But don't do it now! Wait until the trees lose their leaves in fall and begin to enter dormancy.

Fertilizing will not help to hasten leaf out....they will do that in their own time. And fertilizing a plant that is already stressed is never recommended unless you are addressing a nutrient deficiency.....and that is NOT the case here!!
Sara Malone Zone 9b
6 years ago
My 'Pacific Fire' hasn't leafed out yet. It's in dappled shade.