Pump Not Turning On in Time

5 years ago

last modified: 5 years ago

I have a pump that was installed in the basement for the washing machine discharge. The pump make and model can be found at the following link: (ProFlo PF92017 - 3/10 HP Compact Remote Sink/Drain Pump System 1-1/2-Inch).

It is attached to my washing machine and does not turn on in time. It overflows at the area where the washing machine drain is hooked up. After the water overflows for a while, it will kick on and works fine. I'm assuming it is a float issue, but have no clue. Had a technician come look at it through our home warranty, and it was no surprise he said the whole system was broke and needed replaced, even though it's brand new and he didn't actually test it. Obviously the home warranty denied our claim, so here I am trying to figure it out before hiring someone.

I've emailed the ProFlo customer service for support as it should be under warranty through them, but I also didn't purchase the item since it came with the house, so I'm uncertain if they'll help without proof of purchase. I've read some reviews where people have said it came assembled incorrectly and they were able to fix it themselves. I'm a new/first time home owner, so my experience is pretty low, hoping for some advice!

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Comments (4)

formulaross20
5 years ago
Please post a picture of the setup. For the moment I will have to make an educated guess. There are 3 pipe connections for this type of pump: the inlet, the pumped outlet, and a vent line. My guess is that there are only 2 pipe connections to the pump at the present and the vent line is plugged off (the pump is not vented). When the washer starts discharging the empty pump housing would appear to the washing machine as a closed/sealed air chamber, and water would only trickle in at best until the level rose sufficiently to finally turn the pump on. Meanwhile, the washing machine has been pumping at full tilt and the standpipe has overflowed onto the basement floor. The sealed air chamber need to be vented to allow the washing machine discharge to enter quickly and activate the float switch (water coming in needs the air to get out, quickly!). Because the pump housing is receiving only washing machine water and is not open to a sewer, the pump can be vented to the room. I suggest you unplug the vent and add a vertical pipe to vent the sump pump to the room air. Bring the vent up at least a foot above the washing machine standpipe. Did I guess correctly?
HU-876769314
Original Author
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
I added some photos to the original post. It appears the vent line is attached and clear of any debris, so it should be working as intended.
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georgect
5 years ago
I would open it up and see if something is preventing the float mechanism from not moving freely.

It could be the float or the switch but it sounds like the float.
formulaross20
5 years ago
2 things:

- I would get rid of that Studor vent, it offers a small amount of backpressure to the drain, and as there are no sewer gasses at that point in the plumbing, it's not needed, change it to an open vent line extending about a foot above the washer box inlet. Your backflow/check valve provides the needed protection from sewer gasses.

- That horizontal drain line will be slow to move swiftly pumped water. The 1/4" slope per foot on drains is a minimum, increase it to speed up the flow of the drain water. Get some 45 ells and glue and change that horizontal run to a diagonal drain right into the pump. Speed up the drain flow using gravity.

If you don't want to do either of those items, put a restriction in the washer drain hose to slow down its output. The washer pump won't care and there is enough run time built into the time cycles that all the water will get discharged into the drain.