James Hardie Lap Siding - Post Installation Questions on Appearance
Jay Gregory
last year
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Beth H. :
last yearlast modified: last yearJay Gregory
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Need help with choice of color for James Hardie Plank siding
Comments (17)We just sided our house in James Hardie primed. We then had it painted. Be sure your sider knows how to install the siding and what caulks to use (this is important) The color should last a long time--we have a fearsome south/west exposure in a very tall view home that leaked even with 2 layers of ceder siding (flat tongue and groove and lap) This stuff isn't gonna leak-but does need to be properly installed. I say-don't paint the brick. Paint the siding a light color-I happen to like the whites/off white. Find some contrast in the shutters as long as it harmonizes with the roof color. Cornerboards should be the same color as the body and not a trim color. They really are for function not as a feature to admire. They also accentuate the linear rather than the horizontal. Your house has a nice welcoming appearance on a horizontal plane. Not a designer here, just sayin'...See MoreHelp! Hate the hardi plank siding/brick combo! Desperate for ideas!
Comments (22)You could go for a plaster with mixed colour taken from the brick palette. And then grow ivy or boston on that wall. That would give a mix of green and brick-colour. Plant a tree as well. But if it was my house - I would plant a tree and ivy, then took care of them :) Grow them high to cover the wall. Changing the paint won't do miracles cause the choice is consistent with windows - which is good!! I own a house with a front brick wall. Plaster instead of siding that was in original design. It was a really happy choice. But what should be done here is to hide that wall that shouldn't be "the first thing you see" or make it so meaningless that nobody cares. See the attachement - colour matching the brick is not better....See MoreNeed advice on interior lap siding
Comments (83)Looking for advice regarding my particular situation. Just bought a 16' x 20' cottage directly on a tidal river bank. No heat, no a/c. No insulation. Concrete floor. Decent chance of flooding up to a few feet with the occasional hurricane which has happened a number of times in the cottage's 40-year history. Previous owner had cheap wall paneling with instances of damage. I plan to strip down to the stud for full inspection and to make any repairs, upgrade electrical, etc. Certainty of future flooding affects wall decision. My wife wants shiplap which I think will work great because if there were any future flood damage I could easily remove and replace the lower sections. I want to install directly on studs as cheaply as possible and am thinking of 1/2" plywood cut into 8" strips at store. Because there is no underlayment I think 1/4" too weak and 3/4" too expensive. We want a gap for visual effect and to take advantage of shiplap's inherent ability to allow for wood movement. But neither of us want to see bare wall through the gap and I'm too cheap to put a layer behind the shiplap. So a rabbet seems the best option to provide the gap AND a backstop and I already own a table saw. Another poster (ppf) posted the picture below. My # 1 issue - We want the visual gap shown with # 1 but would like to know if we should have a gap between the actual panels at # 2 to allow for wood movement. My # 2 issue - Any advice for how large to cut these rabbets and how much overlap? My # 3 issue - Any advice for anything else I am not think of?...See MoreCement siding question?!
Comments (6)Patrick, the close up helps. There is flashing in place. The installation overall is not super-pro. The material is out of alignment from one panel to the next. Not horrifying in and of itself but does mean that there are larger (or smaller) gaps in some areas than is required in the installation instructions. Caulking the verticals and installing the battens will mitigate most of the problem. The same is true of the missing corner. Do not let them caulk the horizontals! We do not trim over the horizontal seams because it traps water in the joint, ultimately allowing water behind the siding. Caulking the flashing traps any moisture behind it as well....See MoreBeth H. :
last yearlast modified: last yearPPF.
last yearJay Gregory
last yearlast modified: last yearJay Gregory
last yearmillworkman
last yearlast modified: last yearBeth H. :
last yearlast modified: last yearJay Gregory
last yearatlanta4
7 months ago
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PPF.