I’m also interested in this question, I’ve installed two floors, Republic flooring (Great Oregon Oak) and MetroFlor (Genesis 2000). The Republic went great but the Metroflor was very difficult and didn’t want to stay together. I just ordered some Cortec Grande Golden oak and hope it goes down well, it’s new construction so the floor seems flat. I used Advantec subfloor and put my floor joists 12 inches on center, it’s a very stout floor. I read that I can glue the Cortec if I want, but I’m concerned how that affects the subfloor if I ever want to replace the current flooring. I bet getting the glued down LVP is a bear to remove without tearing up the subfloor, any pro’s out there have any advice on this? One of the local retailers only sells glued down LVP, they like the results over floating it.

@SJ McCarthy – Thank you for the information. I checked the Valinge website to see who they had licensed their 5G system to in the U.S.; it seems to be mostly wood flooring companies. The only LVT company listed was Shaw, and the three laminate producers were: Shaw, Armstrong and Clarion. I have yet to see specifically which of their products incorporate the Valinge 5G system. I was actually wondering about the wisdom of getting a laminate with an HDF core; my house doesn’t have a central hvac system and I rely on opening and closing windows to keep the house comfortable. I was worried that the swings in temperature and humidity might not be good for the fibreboard. Whether laminate or LVP, I like the idea of getting a thicker plank; not only because it might allow for a better locking system, but because it seems as if it would be more tolerant of any imperfections in the sub-floor [plywood].

If, the rows are not laid straight. That can cause joint separation also.

Van and Scotty -

Not sure either of you are still in the market/have questions, but I can tell you two huge causes for separation. First and most common is an uneven subfloor. If the subfloor is not level within spec, the planks of the floor will rock slightly, eventually causing separation and sometimes even breakage of the locking mechanisms. Speaking of breakage of the locking mechanisms, the other major issue comes in the form of things like rolling chairs or wheel chairs which distribute weight into too fine of a point. As these devices roll across the joints of the flooring, they create stress that the locking mechanism can't handle and cause breakage and then separation.

" Not sure either of you are still in the market/have questions, but I can tell you two huge causes for separation. "

Two years and I am fairly certain they would have made their choices by now.

Your comment is 1) speculative and 2) adds nothing to the conversation.

As someone who sells flooring, I can tell you I often encounter customers who have put off a project because they weren't sure what the right move would be, so rather than invest in new flooring, they deal with what they already have. But that might not apply to the above individuals, which is why I started by saying "Not sure either of you are still in the market/have questions"

Enjoy your day.

Thanks for bringing the old thread back. Jason. I would say after 2 years, the LVP business finally realized that thin LVPs don't perform. Stay away from any LVPs under 5mm total thickness! Their failures are being inspected every day cross the country.

Couldn't agree more. We regularly have customers come in to look for a "solution" to the inexpensive product they purchased and installed within the past 5-10 years. Better product and professional installation are worth the extra dollars spent when they mean not having to redo the project in short order.

Curious as to whether buying a product with higher "mils" will also translate into sturdier locking systems? I am considering the HD Lifeproof product in either 22 or 30 mil wear layer. Would be happy to pay the extra for the higher level wear layer if it also meant the locking system would be more robust. Is this a thing or just wishful thinking?

@John Brown '

High Mil in LVP business doesn't have anything to do with the thickness of the board, nor the robust of locking system. It refers to how durable the clear film is, that covers the decor paper.

Oh well, was just hoping the overall quality of the product would possibly also be better, but yeah that makes sense. Thanks very much for your reply!

Thicker material do have better locking profiles. It does not get easily damaged like thinner locking profiles.

@G & S Floor Service

Can't agree more. I would stay away from LVPs under 5mm total thickness.

Any reviews on how well the Valinge is holding up. I have been going round and round between solid hardwood, engineered hardwood or valinge. I have researching for months! I want to put it in the kitchen where we do have water drops often and sticky stuff that I use dish soap on to get off the floor.

Depending on your subfloor, I would nail down a good quality engineered wood floor with 3 to 4 mm top layer. It will handle dropping water better than you think.

Very helpful info here as I'm looking into LVPs. I've been looking at various brands and have come across Chesapeake. I've been looking at thicker ones but may be settling on one that's 5mm with a 14F locking system. Looking to diy. Would you stay clear from a 5mm?