Replacing a builder grade kitchen - Questions

5 years ago

We purchased a new construction home in the GTA (Greater Toronto Area). We are planning on removing the builder grade kitchen and working with a contractor to redo a brand new kitchen because it'll cheaper than upgrading with the builder. We've already received several quotes for all the kitchen cabinetry and we have received the upgrade price list from the builder so we are certain that this approach will be the cheaper option.

1. We plan on adding a microwave niche on the kitchen island along with an additional outlet on the wall of the kitchen island (we are planning on doing a waterfall island). We are contemplating on whether we want to upgrade these two electrical outlets with the builder or if it's easy enough to do with a contractor. My only reservation is that the contractor will have to drill through our finished flooring (which we will be upgrading with the builder). If this is too difficult for a contractor, we are considering upgrading it with the builder. Our current microwave has it's own breaker switch on the electrical panel in the basement.

2. Similar to #1, we plan on adding a minifridge in our servery and we are wondering whether we should be upgrading the outlet with the builder or if a contractor can do this. Again, I'm assuming that the minifridge may need have it's own breaker switch on the electrical panel

3. Lastly, we are going with a 36" range and most of the range hoods I've looked at require a duct diameter of at least 8". The builder only offers 6" and doesn't even allow us to upgrade it. Is it possible to upgrade the duct size after closing?

Featured Answer

mtvhike

5 years ago

I have the Sharp microwave drawer, and I don't like it.

1. you can't open and close it manually, you must use the motor

2. it jerks when starting and stopping and when my coffee cup is full, it sometimes spills

3. it's controls are overly complicated (for my use).

I got it to save counter space, and I don't like an over-the-range one, at eye level, so the drawer was a compromise. I wish there was another manufacturer of drawer types, which you could manually open and close the drawer carefully.

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Comments (8)

weedmeister
5 years ago
Have the builder put in a 20 amp circuit into the island. I don't want to speak to code requirements for Canada.

2. A mini-fridge is not that big a current draw as to require its own circuit. If you think you need an extra receptacle in that closet, let the builder do it, though it shouldn't be too hard to do after wards depending on where you put it.

3. Going from 6" to 8" after construction could mean a major pain. $$$$CDN
Bruce in Northern Virginia
5 years ago
If you want a microwave in the island, take a look at the Sharp Microwave drawer to see if it would work for you. If you are also buying high end appliances, several other companies sell drawer microwaves that have much fancier trim than the Sharp. However, unless something has changed, the actual mechanism inside is usually made by Sharp.

Bruce
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Buehl
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
I will let others address the hood issue, but if you want a higher-end (or higher-end looking) Kitchen, consider these other ideas:
- If your refrigerator is not a true built-in refrigerator, then build in the refrigerator to make it appear built-in by surrounding it by 3/4" end panels finished to match your cabinetry and deep enough to cover the sides of the refrigerator (not the doors). Then install a full-depth cabinet above the refrigerator and b/w the end panels, pulling the cabinet so its front is flush with the fronts of the end panels and the refrigerator box.
- The hood should be 6" wider than the range. So, a 36" range should have a 42"W hood that's also 24" deep.
- The island should be at least 41.5" deep and have a 15" clear seating overhang:
----> 1.5" counter overhang in front + 24"D cabinets + 1" decorative door/end panel on the backs of the cabinets + 15" seating overhang (clear leg/knee space) = 41.5"
- Aisles should be at least 42" with 48" even better. Note that aisles are measured to/from the items that stick out into the aisle the farthest -- counter overhangs, appliance handles, etc. They are not measured cabinet-to-cabinet as that measurement only includes the cabinet box, not the doors/drawer fronts, hardware, or counter overhang.
- If you can fit it, put a sink in the island so it can be used as a Prep Zone.
I second the idea for the MW drawer; it is much more useable than a standard MW installed in an under-counter alcove.
d pan
Original Author
5 years ago
I'm actually just looking to create a microwave niche so nothing built in. Just a niche with an electrical outlet on the back. This way if the microwave breaks, I can easily replace it.
kim k
5 years ago
We did that for the microwave - just had a shelf opening in the island with an outlet and bought a counter style model that fit the space.
Bruce in Northern Virginia
5 years ago
Reference using the Sharp microwave drawer - newer models have changed the directions and they now allow you to manually open and close the drawer, although they still recommend using the button. There is definitely a quick initial movement of the drawer as it opens and closes, although I've not had an issue with it being enough to spill anything.

The one feature they should improve is the control panel. Its no more complicated to use than any other microwave, but on the Sharp the control panel is oriented flat and has no backlight until you touch it. When standing up close to the counter that makes it relatively hard to look down and read the panel. I believe I have seen other manufacturers (Jenn Air, maybe), who have used the Sharp panel but put it at an angle to make it easier to read. That seems like it would be a significant improvement.

Bruce
Buehl
5 years ago
I find the drawer:
- Very easy to use -- the controls are all self-explanatory and the same as any other MW (other than the cheap basic ones that basically only include time/power settings)
- It works smoothly -- ours does not "jerk" at all. I re-heat tea all the time and have never had a spill...of course, I do not fill it to the brim b/c that's not smart with very hot liquids and the risk of spilling it when carrying it or the initial sips.
- While there are buttons to open/close, a gentle nudge does close it (i.e., hands free). The "motor" means you get a smooth, consistent motion, not the jerky motion when you manually open/close a regular MW.
- The controls are angled UP so you don't need to squat to see the controls
- Since it's a drawer, you open it to place the food in/take it out without having to squat or reach blindly into the MW
- If you need to stir, simply open, stir, close. No removing the food to stir or reaching blindly in and stirring blindly.
If you and your entire family are quite short, then a standard MW mounted under the counter may be OK, but if anyone is average height or taller, it could be an issue. (Or, if you never use it and are only including it b/c you have to for resale, then OK; although the location might be a detriment to resale.)