Picture would help.

Could you look for insects? I have a Peace Lilly and it grows and multiplies so fast I have to repot it about every two years. When my plant is "unhappy" the leaves turn dark and shrivel up....I just cut them off.

Thank you both for responding! I have check it very thoroughly for insects. I just trimmed off all of the worst affected leaves. I'm sure the ones that are left will get bad enough to take a picture soon. No use taking a picture of the leaves that are left now because they are in the early stages and I doubt if a picture would show the problem very well right now. I will post pictures in a few days.

It is winter...could it be as simple as a cold draft hitting the plant?

Thanks for responding. I am baffled. I have tried it in different rooms, away from windows, closer to windows, different lighting...etc. It is the only one of my Peace Lilies that is doing this.

I've added a picture at the top. From the left, the first leaf shows how the center vein is affected first, then the yellow spreads to the rest of the leaf and they die. No insects, I've checked thoroughly. I am losing leaf after leaf after leaf. I only have a couple leaves left. I do have a sentimental attachment to this plant and really don't want to lose it. I just don't know why this is happening. I have never had problems with Peace Lilies.

I am still hoping someone can help me. Because of my strong sentimental attachment to this plant, it makes me so sad to see it doing so badly. I think I may lose this plant. :-(

Show the entire plant. Is it just a few leaves or all of them?

All of them. There are only a few leaves left on the plant. When it pushes out a new leaf, it looks nice and green. But as a few days go by the yellowing starts and the leaf turns completely yellow and I eventually snip it off after a week or two. There is only one plant/growth point. But it is still producing new leaves. But as stated above, they turn completely yellow. I have had peace lilies for many years, but this is a new one on me. There are definitely no pests.

Are you giving it any plant food. My peace lilies don't do well if I don't feed them . Since it's still producing new leaves, it sounds like it's letting the old ones die so the new ones can survive. I'm sure you're watering it because if you didn't it would let you know. The only other thing it needs is bright, indirect light. No direct sun, but near a window with southern exposure would be good.

Thanks for answering. It is a mystery to me. I've grown peace lilies for more years than I can say. I've never had any problems with any of them. I am one of those people that water them when they start to droop. I know some people say that is bad for them, but mine have thrived for many years....until now. Nice bright light, no direct sun. I can't figure it out. Yes, it is pushing out new leaves, but they quickly turn yellow and die. Yes, some weak strength fertilizer, even though it is winter, but it is pushing out leaves. It so saddens me to know this plant has a good chance of not making it. sad, sad

I finally got frustrated with the so called undemanding Peace Lily...saw a photo on Pinterest that someone grew theirs in a vase of water...so...stuck mine in water instead of soil and they are now doing well. Maybe this could solve your problem with the yellow leaves?

I've gone back and forth about doing that. I've had good luck growing peace lilies in potting mix and also in water. I just don't want to do anything that is going to shock the plant. It is obviously already under strain from something. I may give it a try though, not sure.

I sure wish I could help you save your plant, but I just don't know what's causing the problem. I'll post a link to an article about yellowing leaves on peace lilies. At this point I don't know what to suggest except it may be a root issue. Repotting in fresh soil may be the only option. Good luck.

https://smartgardenguide.com/peace-lily-leaves-turning-yellow/

Thanks!

I just saw this. That's...weird. I'd do a few things. One, treat the existing soil with:

1 part hydrogen peroxide (3% from the drug or grocery store) and 4 parts water. That'll zap most minor fungi, diseases, and soil-dwelling insects. I don't think that's a problem here, but since we can't rule it out, better safe than sorry. Water with it and let it sit for a few days.

Then repot into new soil if it's been a while. While not the perfect time of year, I'd like to rule out a tapped soil (that's also not characteristic of most nutrient deficiencies, although the color is close to a sulfur deficiency, the pattern is completely wrong). Cut any girdling root system and feel free to thin out the edges a little, but expect some transplant shock from doing that.

Feed very gently after transplanting to assist with root regrowth. While Spathiphyllum isn't a heavy feeder, it does like a bit now and again, and I'd use Miracle Gro or something else with a wide variety of micronutrients. Others may suggest DynaGro, which is fine, but expensive, comparatively speaking, without bringing much unique to the table.

@User Thank you for responding. Here's what I've done so far. I haven't done the hydrogen peroxide treatment, but the plant has been repotted and it has been watered with a diluted strength of DynaGro twice since the repot about a month ago.

It looks like a nutrient deficiency to me. I would try some Epsom salts or a Cal-Mag supplement.

Deanna

I wonder if it's a virus?

When you repotted the plant did you examine the roots? If not, I'd suggest taking it out of its pot and examining the roots to see if they look healthy and also to see if there are any munchers eating them.

It's a cultural issue, not a disease, unless the root system is suffering from a fungal pathogen; and to me, it looks like the plant suffers from too much water remaining in the grow medium for an overly long period of time. How often do you water, on average? Do you water on a schedule or as needed? Are yous till using the visual cue of drooping to decide it's time to water? That is stressful/limiting, but probably a better form of stress than chronic over-watering.

Please avoid applying chemicals (like Epsom salts) to see if it might work. In almost all cases, unless you have very good reason to believe you have a deficiency of a particular nutrient, there is far greater potential for harm than good. If you suspect a deficiency of any nutrient, it's far better to flush the soil thoroughly the next time it needs watering and follow the flushing (after drainage has stopped or the next day) with a production strength solution of the FP 9-3-6. Not only is it important that all nutrients are in the soil and available for uptake at all times, it's also important to maintain an appropriate ratio between the nutrients (one of the main reasons FP 9-3-6 works so well). Adding MgSO4 (Epsom salts) can quickly increase the ratio of Mg (magnesium) in the soil to levels so high it makes it difficult for the plant to uptake several of the other nutrients (called an antagonistic deficiency), but especially Ca(lcium) and K (potassium).

Dyna-Grow 9-3-6 is fairly unique in several ways. It provides nutrients in the ratio at which the average plant actually uses them. It includes ALL nutrients essential to normal growth, unlike Miracle-Gro 9-3-6 or 24-8-16 which lack several and would be the closest product MG makes to FP 9-3-6, and perhaps most unique is the fact MG soluble products FP 9-3-6 get their nitrogen from urea, whereas Dyna-Gro derives more than 2/3 of its N from nitrate sources with the rest being in ammoniacal form. MG products with urea promote coarser growth , whereas FP products w/o urea produce comparatively finer foliage and and shorter internodes, which helps to make your plants fuller and more compact.

That your plant produces new leaves doesn't necessarily mean it's growing. Growth is measured by the increase in a plants dry weight; so, if your plant is losing a mature leaf for each new leaf it puts on, it could be the plant is losing mass.

Things that typically cause leaves to turn yellow and die: over/under-watering, root congestion/rootbound, soil compaction resulting in too little air in the medium, nutritional deficiencies ..... particularly deficiencies of the mobile nutrients N, P, K, Mg, natural senescence (aging), temperatures too high or low, a overly high level of TDS (too much salt in the soil) or toxicities of compounds containing fluoride.

You might find this Overview of Good Growing Practices to be helpful. If you compare the suggestions in it to your care regimen, something might jump out at you that ends up being fruitful.

Al

I water on an only when needed basis. If the leaves start to droop, I water. The soil is a good airy mix that doesn't compact. It has very good drainage but will hold moisture for the roots. The roots looked and felt healthy when I repotted and it is not rootbound. The plant definitely is losing mass. It only has two leaves now. I thank all of you for answering and trying to help me. It is so very appreciated. I'm going to take a look at Overview of Good Growing Practices, thanks!