Thank you for your comment! The dimensions are from our builder - this is a standard kitchen plan and they build hundreds of new houses using this plan so I was feeling ok about the dimensions. You think this is too low? How can you tell how deep it is? And — how would the fan/wires be accessed with this current hood? Thanks for your help!

I bet the front panel has to come off to access motor & parts. Thats how they got to ours when we had a fan motor issue that repairman said wasn’t typical of the product. You see our hood is also wood but isn’t a flat front as yours is - it angles out. As you also see, ours is not a single panel front either But it’s dark ebony stain so wood grain all looks the same. I did see your first post & it has one comment from a Pro that is fairly negative about wooden hoods in general & the design of yours specifically .

My Kitchen Plan plus some extra · More Info

It certainly looks better as built than as drawn. A big 'ole piece of plywood between perimeter styles and rails isn't my cup of tea.

If you have them remake it, they would only do that front panel and not the entire unit.

Did they install your cabinets before your floors were in?

I can’t tell whether it is too low - the ideal distance from the cooktop to the bottom of the hood is between 30”-36”. But I can tell - since it’s obvious from the pic and the blueprint - that it’s too shallow. A cooktop or rangetop is a least 24” front-to-back, and the “pro” styles are deeper than that. Your hood surround is less than 20“ front-to-back. That means it won’t cover the front burners.

In addition, because it’s flammable, as opposed to a metal hood, a flare-up could easily touch the hood since it does not extend beyond the front burners, but instead, at less than 20“ deep, is hanging directly over the pots and pans.

I have no idea how your builder can get a wood hood like what you pictured to pass a building code inspection.

It’s a do-over. Alternatively, a path of least resistance is to buy a metal hood, but it still needs to be 24“ deep. There are beautiful ones at Ventahood, ModernAire, and from custom shops like Handcraftedmetal (who will design your custom hood from their location in Texas), but those are expensive. You can also get a Best by Broan, or Costco has some amazing bargains. Make sure the hood or liner is baffle filters, not mesh filters.

Please ask your builder what is the diameter of the duct that goes from the hood to outside. It should be 8” or 10”, but it will be interesting to hear what he says.

The piece of wood sitting horizontal at the bottom isn’t rift sawn oak, it looks like plain sawn, and to me, that stands out like a sore thumb from the vertical pieces that are rift sawn.

@Indecisiveness yes they installed the title before installing the bathroom cabinets but not the wood floors before installing the kitchen cabinets, which surprised me. Is that weird?

I’m not sure if it’s weird, but it’s not best practice. It saves on flooring costs but It means that if you ever want to change the cabinet layout, you will have to deal with holes in the floor.

Was it specified anywhere in your construction documentation how it was supposed to be done?

Are the cabinet drawers hickory? I would be less concerned about the plain sawn bottom of the hood clashing with the rift sawn top, than with the oak and hickory (?) lashing

Melissa K, I absolutely love the stain color on your rift white oak hood. Can you share the details? thanks.