This is one of those cases where new isn't neccessarly better than old. I assume random boards must be replaced if it must be toothed before refinishing. How many places and how many square feet must be replaced?

None of the flooring was damaged. We wanted to pull up tile and carpet in our foyer, dining and family room and extend it throughout the first floor. I estimate about 160 Sq ft. The original wood was a mixture of 4, 5 and 7 inch wood, which the contractor said they don't really mix anymore. The rest was to be added and the whole floor was to be sanded and finished onsite.

This look's like a contractor that "gusstimated" the cost of flooring and labor then realized he missed it. Based on what you have said here,I foresee bad times ahead for you.

What do you think about the long term quality of pre-engineered hard word floors?

There are supply chain issues with flooring and lots of other construction materials--at least in our market, so I'd be inclined to believe your contractor.

I suggest you get a sample of the Shaw flooring and compare it with your existing flooring. I'd be concerned about any difference in thickness between engineered flooring (the Shaw product is nominal 1/2" thickness) and your existing flooring because it will leave a gap between door casings and baseboards.

What do you think about the long term quality of pre-engineered hard word floors?

That all depends on the wear layer of the engineered flooring.

The Shaw that your contractor wants to use has only a 1.2 mm wear layer, If the existing is solid hardwood (6-7 mm wear layer) the Shaw will be a significant downgrade in quality.

Also, the Shaw is 1/2" thick. Presumably your existing flooring is 3/4" thick. Good chance that you will end up with high water door jambs if you replace 3/4'' material with 1/2".

Thanks for the tips. I'll get the sample and compare! We like the look of the shaw empire oak vanderbilt but don't know how to assess quality.

My research on this has been all over the place. My takeaway is that engineered flooring innovation has exploded through the recent years and that the quality of the some engineered flooring is the same or better than hardwood. But if I don't get the right one, I'm in for splinters, cracking, black water spots and more.

Any brands/qualities that I should require as we make the final selection?

Solid wood in decent condition is still miles ahead of prefinished quality wise (especially Shaw). Hold out for your wood patched in and the existing refinished. BUT keep an eye on, ask questions and document every step he takes as it sounds like a money issue to me.

An experienced flooring professional would be able to blend old and new solid. Yes, there are supply chain issues that make this an unknown start and end date project. But your contractor has basically indicated that he is one to guide you to the easy route for him, not the best route for you. He isn’t in your corner, like a designer would be. And likely doesn’t have the experience to really guarantee a satisfactory outcome with the preferred route.