It's a smallish 2ft tree, and cheap. I don't know, I may just try it as an experiment. My only experience with Fall oaks is a potted English and a bare root Red Oak. Both came through the winter OK. The Red turned out to be weak -- for the spot or whatever -- three seasons later will likely get pulled.

Mntreegrower, are you northern Minnesota? Perhaps that is too far north for late oak planting.

White oak is the fussiest oak I grow. But what you are planting is pretty small so it may not have any problem at all if most of the root has been preserved when it was dug up. A typical 6' bare root oak tree, on the other hand, usually has had a significant amount of root removed when harvested for sale.

Trees that are dug in the fall for bare root sale in the spring are kept in coolers over the winter that keep the roots from freezing and the trees plenty hydrated. Bare root that is harvested and planted immediately in the fall may not be able to handle the sometimes harsh, cold, desiccating winds and sunshine of winter due to the root loss during the transplant. And oaks are well-known to be more sensitive to root disturbances than other trees. To what warmer hardiness zone this is no longer a concern I don't know. But I did see a Purdue University article advising against bare root fall planting.

I am growing trees in the zone 4A Minneapolis/St. Paul area. If "drought" and "extreme cold" are words you never say during winter where you are, then you probably will have no problems. Cheap is also a key word here, too.

I was going to say what mntreegrower already said above -- not enough time in the far north for a bare-rooter to get established enough to resist the cold, dry desiccating winds.

What if wrapped and/ or wind sheltered somehow? And also if planted earlier in the fall to give it more transition time.

If you're talking bare-root, that pretty much needs to be done when the tree is dormant -- lost its leaves. You might plant a bare-root in a pot and store in an unheated garage.