Huh?

If you are asking whether to furr out the wall to match the width of the tub, it is better to extend the wall past the tub at least the width of a "bullnose" tile so the tile runs down to the floor in front of the tub. I have many other questions but I won't ask.

I was limited to how many words i could us. This was DIY project that took way longer than we thought. Thanks for not asking 😩😂

@3onthetree Now i want to know🥺😬

Take a picture from further back so everyone can help you... This was a measuring error so that would give me concern with what else you are doing. Changing a tub is not really a DIY project.

@Debbi Washburn

@Debbi Washburn now im feeling like i should have left the cast iron tub and painted it. we had someone install the tub and do our plumbing, but the tub is keeping me up at night 😩 and someone will do our tile.

Would this work?

What if you did a tub skirt that blended into a wall treatment? Like a tub skirt blended into a wainscoting or board and batten...Then you could set the skirt at a thinner trim and the wall treatment at a thicker depth... that way they would blend and camouflage the overlap... Or redo it entirely.

“Someone” was an amateur. The tub is wider than the space. Do I see a shower setup on the wall?! The wall should have been fully insulated and waterproofed before shoving a tub in there. Are you sure “someone” knew how to install a drain and other plumbing? No tiling until all other issues are resolved.

@felizlady Yes we the home owners are amateurs in that the wrong size was purchased. There is a shower set up & we didnt insulate because previous work wasnt insulated. The tile installer will install waterproof barrier before tiling. @H D Thank you will talk to tile installer about that.

I’m an amateur but I have a lot of experience. I also am always present when someone is working for me...I catch shortcuts which I haven’t authorized.

Exactly what Hallett said - either bring out the wall to the left of the tub or create a bump to accommodate the tub size. It should be 2-3" deeper than the tub although I have seen them with less clearance.

Please fins a competent installer to fix all of this for you.

And read up on proper waterproofing for tile installations - there are many articles here about problems... and many great pros that will give advice.

Just take a deep breath - it was a mistake and they happen, but it is easy enough to fix at this stage .

@Debbi Washburn @HALLETT & Co. THANK YOU!!! i was ready to throw in the towel or try and buy another tub. I have plenty of clearance from tub to counter 32-33’’. THANK YOU AGAIN….😊😊😊

I would suggest a few things as you are DIYing:

- choose your tile size and basic layout.

- take out the tub for better access. You can remove the drain, the overflow plate (don't see) and the few screws. The plumbing is not complicated, you can look at Ytube.

- demo the cornerbead and might as well the wall cover (if it's a blank wall and dies into a corner) where you will be furring out to match the tub width.

- add the furring, keeping in mind the width to run tile down past the tub or if you will flush a metal tile edge to top of tub. Sawcut the floor/underlayment out down to subfloor (like you did under the tub) so later it will be easier to change the flooring when desired.

- add full height wall studs on either side of the mixing valve since the middle one has been cut. These also act as limits for an access panel (or just where to cut and patch) on the other side of wall if ever need to access plumbing.

- add full height, faced stud to accept the edge screws for the transition from cement board to standard drywall on the valve wall (match furred out wall dimension other side of tub). Cut existing wallboard straight and to land on it.**

- verify your niche placement follows the tile pattern (and one of the horizontals looks unlevel).

- verify the ceiling is parallel to the floor, and both are level (for tile to ceiling).

- insulate with batt or mineral wool insulation for sound attenuation.

- install 6mil vapor retarder in the tub nook.

- verify the manuf's installation of the tub. Plumbers notoriously leave out the wall cleat many tubs require. Also manuf's fastening method, plumbers like to wing it with screws through anything.

- verify manuf's instructions allowing additional support (foam/mortarbed) under tub well - cheap tubs have nothing, better tubs have it already addressed.

- reinstall tub, always use the original cardboard box (usually shows you where to cut it to fit over initially and later inside the well) as protection of the tub while work continues.

- realize that the tub surround (cement board) needs to overlap the tub flange. So from the picture with wide shimming, you will need to furr out the tub surround to accomplish this. Make sure your furring/substrate is plumb and flat for tile install. But first verify with tiler you will hire, as sometimes they prefer to install the wall substrate to guarantee plumb and flat.**

** If you choose a Schluter waterproofing, that is approved for use over gypsum board products. However, cement board is always better, as water has a way of getting behind the walls, and gypsum board turns to mush and molds when wet.

@3onthetree Thank you. When we opened up the wall to replace the valve the studs were already cut, house was built 1940’s. we have added furring strip around tub. I told hubby to take that corner off but did he listen 😒? Thank you

You can go over that corner- I know that kind of plaster is a bear to work with. Steel everywhere. It isn’t at all like television.

@HALLETT & Co. instead of removing corner go over it? yes the walls have that mesh wire and is difficult to remove. Is it necessare to remove existing plaster to furr wall out?

^^ you don't have to remove the wallboard behind the furring. Just depends on how anal you are and if you can hit the existing studs.

It is better to remove the plaster etc, but I have worked with that stuff and know it is a bear so in this case entombing it behind another layer of wall is fine. no one has to know.

Should i comtinue the tile or use the pebble stone on the column? i wanted the pebble but tiler said it would look unfinished. suggestions please. I’m pleased with it so far😊

@HALLETT & Co. & @Debbi Washburn it turned out pretty well i think. Should i add the pebble or continue the tile? i wanted pebble but timer said it would look unfinished. Thank you

I would just leave it in the niche. Less is more sometimes!

Looks great!

Moldings are always good to hide mistakes . Don't worry , you will find something to cover the mishap . You will get lots of suggestions and all you have to do is pick one that suits your needs and pocketbook. The best thing about mistakes is to find a simple solution ! I use moldings a lot when I see mistakes .....

No pebble, keep it simple.