You won' 't find that Where were the SPECS for the range you have, when the"custom " kitchen was designed? A closed oven door always is proud of cabinetry, and then the handle......: )

Just one reason kitchen design is a specialty. .........appliance specs/ SPECS!!! before cabinetry build.

Without a picture of the space? I guess you are cutting.....Or finding a way to use the oven with the handle removed...or a different handle

As below....

Paul Conaway

I have a GE oven model JKS3000SN1SS and Serial SR058871Q
There is a clearance problem with the door handle and adjacent cupboards. The handle needs to be shorter by about 1.5 inches overall, that is 3/4/inch on each side. Or else one that does not stick out an inch at the ends. Is there an alternate door handle available?

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Fred's Appliance Service

Hello! For replacement parts, we recommend contacting GE parts directly at 1-877-959-8688

Apartment size stove dimensions

Compact, space-saving stoves can help optimize your kitchen’s workspace, flow and storage to make it the hub of activity it’s meant to be. Expect around the following dimensions when shopping models:

Width: 20–24 inches

Depth: 25–27 inches including the closed door, which should protrude beyond cabinets, but without handles and knobs

Height: 36–41 inches, up to 46 inches including a backguard

Learn more about apartment-sized appliances with Whirlpool brand’s small kitchen ideas or browse the full selection of Whirlpool® Compact Kitchen Appliances.

Thst is design malpractice. Make your kitchen designer fix the errors. On their dime.

Post a pic of the issue please and I agree who ever designed the kitchen needed to have all the info about the appliances and IMO that was a very poor placement for a range to begin with.

A potential might be the Fisher & Paykel induction range. It sits nearly flush with the cabinets at 25” deep - not sure how much the handle protrudes out after the 25”. That being said, I think you need to find a better solution. Kitchen caninets typicall outlast many appliances. Replacing anything you find now to fit that space years down the road could be quite a big gamble.

These slide-in induction ranges about 27" deep including the handle (recheck spec sheets to be sure). All require 40 amp circuit except Fisher Paykel:

• Smeg SPR30UIMX
• Fisher Paykel OR30SDI6X1
• Electrolux ECFI3068AS

Thank you for the quick replies. I am at the point where I don't want to worry about the shoulda woulda couldas. I just need to figure out a solution. Thank you to @Sher H & @julieste for the suggestion. Unfortunately, I only have 40 amp. So, I'm trying to brainstorm other possible workarounds.

Here is a view looking straight toward the spot for the range. Counter top to counter top width is exactly 30". The granite backsplash starts at 36 ½ from the ground.

This is looking toward the magic corner.

The drawer and cabinet would hit anything that protrudes out more than 27"

This is showing the measurement from the wall behind the range.

This shows #1 the top of the cabinet door (so possibly could open under an oven handle at 28 ⅝ from the floor to top of cabinet door. AND #2 shows the bottom of the drawer which is 28 13/16 from the floor, so possbily open above any handles.

Here's scanned back so you can see the whole counter top height.

Magic corner mechanism attached to far right side of cabinet door and inside right side of cabinet.

Magic corner top down.

So here are some brainstormed ideas thus far.

1. Buy a range that is 28-29 deep (there are options there) and do a combination of the other ideas below:

Bottom cabinet

• Change the magic corner fixture I bought which pulls out straight before opening up to the right, which would hit any oven door.
• Hinge the cabinet door on the right so it swings open to the right immediately & would not hit a range.
• Remove the magic corner mechanism which is attached to the door and manually swing the frame of the magic corner when I need to but this way the door is hinged to the right side of the cabinet and the magic corner mechanism wouldn't require I pull out straight.
• Buy a different brand/blind corner mechanism like a Rev-a-Shelf blind corner that hinges on the right and swings open to the right so it wouldn't hit the range.
• Don't use any magic corner mechanism at all and just have the cabinet door hinged on the right and use the open empty cabinet for not ideal but usable storage space.
• Cut the cabinet door vertically on the right most edge of the inset panel, leaving the magic corner mechanism attached where it is) and use a hinge to connect the inset panel side (left of the cut) to the right side of the cabinet door so that the door will open like it was hinged on the right but I wouldn't need to get rid of the magic corner mechanism which is still attached to the cabinet door.
• Make a new cabinet door that is 2-3" narrower and use a filler on the left so when the cabinet opens, it won't hit the range.

Drawer

• Order a new drawer that is 2-3" narrower and use a filler on the left so when the drawer opens, it won't hit the range.
• Order a new drawer

I need your fresh eyes and ears please. TIA

Crazy idea ... are there any wall oven that are shallow enough and then put a separate cooktop on top?

The 27"-deep Smeg SPR30UIMX costs $4400. The 30"-deep LG LSE4616ST (which, it appears, can be connected to a 240 volt circuit with a 40 amp cord) costs $2900. The $1500 difference should more than pay for a narrower drawer and door, and filler panel. I'd be generous and allow for a range at least 31"-32"deep.

Thank you to everyone for your suggestions. @wdccruise, you are amazing! I don't know how you found those. I and others have been searching with no luck. FYI, I couldn't find any diagrams or specs that showed the depth of the handle on the Electrolux ECF13068AS. The Bertazzoni depth including handle is 28 11/16. I think I am going to bite the bullet and buy the Smeg SPR30UIMX, as it is 27 1/16 with handle, and my door is 27 ⅛ I can buy as is and not have to worry about changing anything else. THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!

Okay, another possibility but the dimensions on the spec don't add up. The Bertazzoni diagrams are confusing to me.

• The top down view shows total depth 27 ⅜"
• The side view shows from back to edge of case is 25 3/16"
• The side view shows oven door 1 ⅛"
• The side view shows handle 2 ⅜"
• My brain says add 25 3/16 + 1 ⅛ + 2 ⅜ = 28 11/16
• Or is it saying add 25 3/16 + 2 ⅜ = 27 9/16?
• Either way 27 9/16 or 28 11/16 does not match the top down of 27 ⅜.

Am I doing my math wrong? Based on this, what do YOU think the total depth, including handle is?

It's the latter 25 3/16 + 2 3/8 ... but you're correct, it doesn't add to the 27 3/8 ... somewhere 3/16 vanishes between the measurements. I would want to measure one myself if I had a space that required tight tolerences. 27 3/8 is bigger than your space though anyways, isn't it?

Yes, but if it's super close, I COULD shave down the left edge of the drawer and cabinet. I'm going to the store now with my tape measure to see what I can find out.

I would order base cabinet with 2-3 drawers and 2-4 burner induction cooktop.

"The Bertazzoni diagrams are confusing to me."

Earlier I removed the Bertazzoni range from my list. (It's 25-3/16 + 2-3/8 = 27-9/16).

Note that the Electrolux range's cord comes with a 4-prong plug (Installation Instructions, page 9).

@Celery. Visualization, Rendering images: "I would order base cabinet with 2-3 drawers and 2-4 burner induction cooktop."

She'd have to add a cabinet, install two appliances, and redo the countertop.

I went to Airport Appliances to see the Bertazzoni they had on the floor. They had gas but said the footprint would be the same as the electric. I measured the depth and it was as the top down diagram showed, 27⅜. If I go with the Bertazzoni, we could cut 1/4 off the right and left sides of the drawer and cabinet faces, reattach aligned right so I have ½ more space on the left. Or I could pay $1,200 more for the Smeg and be done with it (as long as the 1/16 clearance from edge of handle to drawer edge is sufficient.

Update-Still trying to find the best solution. I can't even go with the Smeg as it is currently unavailable with no idea when. I need to go to the store to physically look at the Bertazzoni and a Frigidaire FGEH3047VF (depth including handle is 29") and Samsung NE63T8711SS (depth including handle 28 11/16"). Nothing currently available electric 40 amps with less depth (and not coil cooking surface). Still searching. I took off the cabinet door and my magic corner mechanism can work without being attached (if I just manually pull it). I think I might add hinges to the right side so that the door opens to the right instead of pulling straight out at first. I'll still have to cut the door and drawer facing, but that should also help a little.

We had to upgrade our electrical from 40 amp to 50 amp when we got our induction range. It wasn’t too difficult. If you can upgrade yours, it will open up more options for you, like the Fisher & Paykel.

Here's an option. 50 amp circuit

https://www.dacor.com/us/products/styles/professional/ranges/30-inch-induction-range-professionalion

hmm try this:

https://www.dacor.com/en-us/products/styles/professional/ranges/30-inch-induction-range-professional

or Ilve...their ranges are shallow depth, under 27"

https://www.ilveusa.com/range.html?sku=UMI30NE3SSB

How much does it cost to have your electric upgraded to 50amp?

That Dacor range is a ridiculous $6000. I really think you should fix the cabinetry to allow for a 31"-32" deep range and upgrade the circuit to 4-wire, 50 amp. Then you can buy a reasonably-priced range (the Frigidaire FGIH3047VF is less than $2000; the Frigidaire GCRI3058AF is only $1250) and there won't be any problem fitting a replacement range in the future.

Hi Everyone, I wanted to let you know that as of today, I HAVE A WORKING RANGE! It took 4 delivery/installation attempts (and they still need to come out again to attach the trim-that's a whole different story) but my Bertazzoni PROF304CEMXE fits! Since the handle is low, the drawer actually pulls open without needing any modifications. It's close. SUPER CLOSE.

How close?

There is exactly 1/8" clearance. Yep, ONE-EIGHTH OF AN INCH!

And half-an inch clearance above the oven door handle. That was a HUGE relief. If the handle on this model wasn't so low (and the Bertazonni not as deep as other units), I would've had to make the drawer narrower.

As far as the cabinet door, we are going to hinge it on the left, and I'll pull out the magic corner apparatus by hand instead of having it attached to the actual cabinet door. So, I won't need to swap out a narrower door and add a filler strip.

I'll share more pictures when it's done-done, but this is a HUGE relief! Thank you to everyone who shared your suggestions. If I hadn't put out an SOS here on Houzz, I don't know what I would've done. If you are still looking for a shallower electric range compatible with 40 amps, this Bertazzoni might work for you. It is 27 3/8" deep including the handle, and my standard height drawer cleared the handle due to its low position on the oven door.

What a great update! I’m so happy to hear it worked out for you. Your new range and kitchen looks beautiful!

Thank you, @Sher H. Did you end up getting the Fisher & Paykel after you increased to 50 amps?

I ended up getting the Miele induction range. We’re really loving it!

@Lorianne Lee, how are you liking the Bertazzoni? i’ve seen mixed reviews for them i also have a kitchen i’m updating, i don’t have quite as tight a clearance to meet as your stove, but nearly so. with my current 40 amp, options are the Smeg or the Bert, i like the FP as well, but i wonder with the smaller capacity if its worth upgrading the amp .

Hi @Olivia Peake, so far so good. It's a gorgeous range. I'm still figuring out settings and trying to figure out how long to bake things compared to my old range. So far I've used the 'proofing' ability, which worked well, and the regular baking setting. I've baked a variety of cookies, made croissants and kouin amann, roasted chicken, and baked a big roasting pan full of lasagne. This is the first time I've had a professional style range, so the air coming out of the front and noise takes a little getting used to, but they don't bother me. As long as I know what to expect, I'm okay. I'm still not sure about the gasket around the door and the moisture on the interior glass. The technician that came to install the island trim said that was normal, but I don't know if I necessarily believe him. Perhaps the high end glass is different (my old glass cracked after using the cleaning cycle and water from the sponge dripped on the glass). I read induction ranges are supposed to be hotter and bring water up to a boil faster, but I have not found that to be the case.