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does anyone plant tulip bulb containers with all perlite?

Hello,


I am just getting ready to plant my tulip bulbs in pots. (They are still chilling in the 'fridge.)


I had read in a couple places that a pH neutral medium is best, so I bought a big bag of perlite.


However, now it seems that perlite might have too much fluoride for tulip bulbs? Is this true?


I have orchid bark available. Would horticultural sand be better?


I can also go back to the nursery and get anything else. (I am only doing a few bulbs so I am not worried about the expense. Well, just the gas to drive there, that is!)


I have been having bad luck with tulips for a couple years now, so I am trying to eliminate any risk factors I can think of. I seem to find new ways to make mistakes.


Your input is appreciated!!

Comments (5)

  • 4 years ago

    Well, technically, my plan had been that I would put a top dressing of bark on top, and plant some grass seeds on it too, just bc it might keep the perlite from flying all over if the top layer dries out, and maybe add visual interest.


    The only reason I don't do all-bark is that when I have done that, the bulbs didn't do well. However, this may have had nothing to do with the bark.

  • 4 years ago

    Everything the tulip needs to flower is already contained in the bulb, so you can plant them in anything, even water. However, if you want them to flower next year they will need nutrients. Information on pH is directed at growing in the ground.


    Is it normal in your area to plant tulips in March?

    Need2SeeGreen 10 (SoCal) thanked floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
  • 4 years ago

    I'm only in zone 9b, but I think you need to get your tulips planted out earlier. as they hate hot weather. The best growing period here is December-March when day temps will rarely ever get near 80. I find that many years we get an early hot spell and that will blast the tulips as they flower and they last but a day or three. Only occasionally have I had tulips bloom a second year, and then only in the ground somewhere they get part shade, and then with much smaller flowers.

    Growing in pots, my best year was when I followed the Sunset garden Book method of planting out in large pots (15") in early December and holding the pots in deep shade covered in mulch (oak leaves) until leaves show. I also used the Darwin hybrids which tend to be good doers in warmer zones


    Type of Potting mix is not critical in my experience.


    If you are growling T. clusiana or T.bakeri then I would use a decent draining, but still fertile mix as these will increase.

    Need2SeeGreen 10 (SoCal) thanked chadinlg Zone 9b Los Gatos CA
  • 4 years ago

    floral_uk: thanks - I didn't realize that the pH advice was referring to ground planting. As to the "normal" question, I think it is not normal to try to grow tulips here in the first place. I am just a bit stubborn I guess. (Still, years ago, I did it with no problem. I don't know what I've been doing wrong lately.)


    Mine arrived a bit late in the fall, I suppose due to shipping delays, and then where I live, you have to chill them in the 'fridge for 10 to 12 weeks.


    chadinlg - thanks - I do think it would be easier to try to grow things that are more suited to the climate here. Mostly that's what I do. I will definitely look into the Darwin hybrid types. (Actually, that may even be what I ordered.)


    Weirdly, I find myself balking at throwing out the mini plants that result from the previous year's failures. I just keep them all, sitting around, and then I have to buy more pots. At some point, I hope to have a dedicated ground area to plop them in.




  • 4 years ago

    Are you saving the old tulips that failed in pots? You shouldn't expect them to flower again., just dump them and reuse the pots. Hybrid tulips should be considered one and done for you.

    Need2SeeGreen 10 (SoCal) thanked robert567