Why don't you show the kitchen layout and plan. ? Cheat's such as your concept, rarely save enough to sacrifice a good look or function Show the cad plan.... with dimensions

Would you rather have exactly what you want designed to fit the space and the items that will be stored inside, or cobble together something that may or may not work for the intended use? You have to figure out really how much youre going to save going the stacked cabinet route vs. having it designed to your specifications and loving your storage. There may not be a huge difference. Is it worth an extra $1000 or $1500? Thats nothing added to your mortgage. I made a few compromises when building our home but the kitchen wasnt one of them. For me it was worth the extra $$ because I spend a lot if time there and a well organized kitchen is a clean and efficient one. Good luck w your kitchen

Doing the math;

Height of base cabinet with toe kick @ 34.5"+ height of base cabinet minus toe kick @ approximately 30.5 = 65". 96" ceiling height - 65" = 31" between top of 2 stacked base cabinets and an 8" ceiling.

Adding a 24" H over the refrigerator cabinet to 2 stacked base cabinets 65 = 24 = 89" leaves 7" between the top of the stack & 8' ceiling.

Cost of 3 cabinets plus extra labor to assemble stack & install vs cost of pantry cabinet.

A lot of base cabinets have an integrated toe kick. So that part would have to be sawn off one of the base cabinets in order to stack.

Integrated toe kick:

Non-integrated toe kicks:

order a tall carcass..not sure what width you desire but go to REV a SHELF or Hafele and order the insides to your specs. All configurations avail now

Pantry Storage Solution · More Info

Tall Pantries with Roll-out Shelves · More Info

What I like about the standard tall pantries with pull-outs is that you can have different heights between the shelves like the one shown above. For some things you need 15", others 12", etc. Think about what you're storing - you can probably work out something that will fit your items. I do have a drawer base under my oven which is handy. There might be another configuration that will work.

We’re on a very right budget and my husband is doing all the installing. Looking for a 24w drawer base with a 2 door shelf cabinet on top and then a 12in 2 door on top of that to match the above fridge that is adjacent. We have 7.5 ft ceilings. I’ve seen similar at ikea but he is dead set against buying from there. Main purpose of this cabinet is for the microwave and small appliances. We will have a closet pantry for main food storage. I will post floor plan shortly. Thx all for the comments!

My tall cabinet (and all my cabinets) were made by a local cabinetmaker, but they were Ikea style, frameless with pre drilled holes for adjustable shelves. As time went on and my needs changed, I have added Ikea drawers and baskets just as in herbflavor's first photo above. The drawers are a very good value, but there are other sellers that make wooden or metal aftermarket sliding shelves and drawers - Rev-a-shelf is just one, and sometimes the most expensive.

Depending upon your finish, or your own finishing/painting skills (if needed to match what you are already getting), you could order your cabinet frame from Conestoga or Barker rather than Ikea.

However, based on your cost savings, removing a toe kick from a second base shouldn't be that hard, if your husband can make a straight cut.

Depending on the location, a microwave in a pantry can be a pain. You will have to leave the doors open when using it. You may be better just having the base cabinet with a counter for the microwave to sit on then get a nice tall cabinet ( skip the little 12" high at the top - its a waste ) and modify the depth to 18" for bulk storage of small appliances.