I think a LVP white oak would be beautiful.

Thank you for the comments! Yes it's difficult to find anything online that matches my trim/doors. Everything I see has white trim/white door combo which is nice but just doesn't look to be in the cards for me. I'm surprised no one has mentioned grey flooring as an option. Just not so sure on that white oak but it does get recommended a lot. Always seems to have sort of a unfinished look to me for some reason.

I wonder if I can trouble anyone to show me what my house would look like with white oak flooring with photoshop

@unique wood floors
Do you mind sharing the manufacturer and color information on the floors in pictures 2&4? Thank you

do an engineered french oak flooring. It will look great w/your colors.

I have black/white, charcoal/gray in my main room/kitchen.

I love these floors. they are easy to care for and stand up to everyday 'stuff'.

They are Calif. Classics, Mediterranean selection in the color 'Granville'. I have the same flooring on my ceiling in my master bath in the "Kerrew" color. (click on my name to see those pics)

In my bedroom, I did an acacia herringbone (I did the bedroom 5 years ago, the kitchen 3 years ago. they didn't have the french oak in the herringbone back then, so I did the acacia)

The doors and the door casing are solid oak stained in ebony

These floors came from Unique Wood Floors. One of the few places that had pre-cut herringbone wood floors.

Your home looks gorgeous from what we can see. No to gray wood floors. They are trendy and a trend that’s on its way out. I would not put plastic (lvp) if you can afford better. Some marketing genious addad ”luxury” before “vinyl flooring“ but you still have plastic floors. White oak can be given stain in almost any shade from light to dark and over the years it can be redone in a different shade if your tastes or decor changes.

Thank you Olychick! I'd be happy to show more pics of my house. I've been doing an upgrade every year for the last 5 years. On my big bucket list I have flooring, kitchen and 1 bathroom left to do. The rest will be either paint or furniture or other smaller jobs. I've been wanting to do the flooring for years but I finally feel good about my decision to do the entire main floor and upstairs with one wood (I don't want a patch work feel). The basement is laminate and that's ok for now.

Good to know about the gray. In my gut I've felt like the gray is a passing fad and with all the flooring i have to replace I don't want to have to go through all of this again. Ideally, I want a floor that's going to be around as I don't plan on changing it. My only 'challenge' is that ceramic floor in the one photo might be a nightmare to pull up.

Hi Beth, I really like that flooring in your second photo. What is that one called?

the variations on the white or french oak really vary a lot. I wonder which best suits mine?

I hope you've gotten an estimate -- the biggest (shock) cost here will be jackhammering up the tile! Just about any decent engineered wood floor would look great -- white oak is more popular right now because cooler, but red oak with a natural finish is lovely too. But removing the tile to the degree that you have a clean flat surface to lay anything new on is... mind-blowing!

not sure who makes that one.

some of the floor planks vary, others don't. it just depends on othe type of wood and how it's cut.

These are Monarch floors in Tableau latour

This is the Mediterranean collection sample from my flooring place

https://californiaclassicsfloors.com/hardwood-flooring/Mediterranean-hardwood-flooring.aspx

Here's the one I got. they ahve about 15 diff colors

if you like darker:

Provenza is among these as well as Calif Classics.

This is a whitened oak in a herringbone. I love this one

personally I would never do LVP over a good engineered wood. that's my opinion.

go to a good flooring place that carries lots of samples. See what you like.

Thanks Beth! Leaning any particular way as to what flooring you'd use at my house (given the doors and trim I have)

any of the ones I just posted. I would go w/more of the natural white oak, french oak look.

the monarch is nice. so are the floors I got.

I edited my previous comment.

I added a few more pics above, and a link to the Mediterranean line.

you're going to have to go to a flooring place and look around to see what you like.

check out this collection too

https://californiaclassicsfloors.com/hardwood-flooring/Cezanne-hardwood-flooring.aspx

Thanks Beth! I'd love to see for the heck of it, if a member could do a little photoshop to see what it might look like. I love this site! Always so many great ideas

Not an expert but I thought engineered wood could go over tile.

Hi tozmo, I'm no expert either. I assumed the ceramic would have to be pulled out as otherwise those parts with ceramic would sit higher than the other rooms without it

It will sit higher but once you find out the cost to remove the tile, using a reducer at transition points might make sense. 🤣

Not sure where the transition points are, but it might be okay to use a reducer.

The cermaic on the main floor is pretty extensive. It's at the entrance, 1 bathroom, kitchen and laundry room. There are 2 more rooms at the same level that have rug and there is one more room that drops off of the kitchen....that may be a problem with leveling?

If you CAN add engineered over ceramic, it might be less expensive to leave it and add a thicker underlayment to the non-tile areas.

Could people say why they are recommending engineered over real hardwood boards? I don’t know anyone using engineered at all but I’m in the PNW-maybe weather affects the choice?

We all are different, and not knowing the age or style of your home, but based on your statement about not wanting trendy, as pretty as different patterns are, I’d probably avoid herringbone or other patterns. Maybe in a small, confined area like a foyer, but not larger areas.

I believe my house was built in 1977. Apparently a different cermaic was originally installed when the house was built but many years later it was ripped out and this ceramic was put in. I have been at the house roughly 12 years and little was done to it when I moved in. The house was FULL of golden oak....everywhere. Wainscotting, doors, trim you name it. As a white paint couldn't be guaranteed I went with the espresso stain so as to keep all the solid oak doors and update it in the process. I was only suggested to use the engineered hardwood due to durability

@Lisa Laird, not at all. Elegance Plyquet Cicerone collection White Ale and Pilsner. They are both 9/16"(3mm sawn veneer) x 6" x 86" random. Hope this will help.

@rberesh73, i would definitely remove the tile before installing engineered wood floors. Once you start looking, you will be overwhelmed by how many white oak selections out there. You want to focus on what you must have on your floor, such as board width, thickness, wear layer, grade, finish sheen, etc. Find a specialty wood floor retailer in your area, so salesperson is capable to explain wood floor purchase process, installation and care clearly.

agree w/above. I'd never install wood floors over ceramic tile! (It's not always doable either. )

It's true, demo of those tiles is a nightmare. messy, time consuming and $ (if you can do it yourself, save some money). but the subsequent wood floors should last a lifetime. When you look at it in the longterm, tearing out the tiles and doing it correctly is the right way to go. Plus, you won't have the huge height difference.

Olychick, I have engineered and solid wood. right now I'm fixing a huge hump from the solid wood over concrete slab. apparently there was trapped moisture from an earlier slab leak. (removed the bowed wood (it was up about 1" or more!) ground down the slab, and let it dry)

The engineered wood flooring in the next room/hallway was fine. Maybe the trapped moisture missed that spot, don't know. Engineered is a lot more forgiving when it comes to moisture and humidity issues

From my computer's view, your tile is fine and basic, and still sells today... [?]

The white and dark posts aren't 'in'... [?]

Basic rooms have tile -- if you installed fab wood in other rooms, how many different materials would there be on that floor of the house?

The upstairs has all laminate and easy to replace. The main floor has carpet in a front office, dining room, family room and living room. The ceramic runs from the entrance ducks into a bathroom and adjacent laundry room and then continues to the kitchen.

@Unique Wood Floors ha yes I'm already feeling a bit overwhelmed with all the variations. White oak is about all I have to go on for now.

If I had an unlimited budget I would. . .

Reality is most of us don't have an unlimited budget.

There is also a reason people used tile in entry ways, bathrooms, kitchens. Tile will last forever and it is hard to destroy unless you drop hammers and other heavy objects on it.

Wood and engineered wood can sustain water damage in wet areas.

Before worrying about which color I might get someone in to estimate the cost of replacing everything vs the cost of replacing just the carpeting or carpeting and some of the tile, leaving tile in the bathrooms and kitchen.

Then you can decide if the flooring needs to work with both the trim/doors and the remaining tile or just with the trim/doors.

I would choose the material you like the best and will work best for you and your lifestyle.

I picked LVT for my home over wood, carpet or tile.

I don't want to worry about my floors and getting them wet or dirty or having my dog destroy them with her nails.

I didn't choose wood or carpet because I know they would not last as well given the lifestyle that I have.

I had tile in my last home - tough flooring, but also hard on my feet, joints . . . I was surprised when I moved how I suddenly didn't have any pain in my heals or calves at night. Tile was not my friend.

If Bamboo was more water resistant and scratch resistant I would have gone with Bamboo for the eco friendly status, but, like wood, it would damage too easily in my home.

Wonderful post Jennifer. There's definitely lots to consider and that ceramic stresses me a bit as I know it will be costly. However, with that being said, I'd like to redo my kitchen and if that happens I might have to tear up some ceramic anyways. Maybe some could stay in areas like the laundry room? Not sure....

The LVT is very affordable and you can use it throughout your house. I’d strongly consider that and compare it to engineered hardwood. Have the installer quote the whole house and you can back off rooms as needed. Tile is great for laundry and baths. That would give you an idea of cost and what you can afford. I’m building a new house and going through similar questions. I have 4 dogs, but love real wood. It’s a dilemma for sure.

I guess my thinking is...and maybe I'm wrong.....but whether it's lvt or the hardwood I'm thinking that removing the ceramic will be expensive either way. The only cost cutting thing I can think of (but maybe it would look bad) would be to keep some of the ceramic where I can so its not a full removal.

Another suggestion, can you paint tile floors and here's the answer and more. https://www.ambertiles.com.au/news/post/can-you-paint-floor-tiles

Get a sample of Smartcore Naturals engineered hardwood from Lowes. Pepperwood oak is a light color without yellow. It may meld with your existing doors/trim. 100% waterproof. It uses the same core as lvp but real wood wear layer instead of a picture on vinyl. 1/4" thick. 6-1/2" wide with click and or glue install. $4.20.

Flooret has a similar Swedish product using European Oak as the wear layer in 7" and 11" widths. Collections - Silvan Hardwood - Flooret Balboa or Lyon seem like options. Flooret sells direct to consumers. $5.50-$6. 11.33mm thick about 7/16".

Home Depot has a similar line under the Malibu name. French Oak labelled but more likely eastern European or Russian Oak via China.

The European Oak are different species than North American White Oak. The grain is not as open and they aren't as yellow is some finishes. The lack of yellow is making them popular.

@rberesh73,

You thought is correct. You will be happier to nail or glue down a quality engineered wood floor than any floating type. If for some reason you need to keep some tile in your house, the engineered wood floor can be butted up to your tiles seamlessly in height and connection.

Wow lots of great suggestions. I definitely want to stay away from floors with yellow in them so that's helpful. I think what I'm leaning towards, for the moment, is leaving the ceramic in as is. Instead the dining room, living room, front office will have the hardwood put in. The family room will also have hardwood put in but I have a design dilema I want to fix there first (a new wall fireplace) before putting the flooring there. As for the ceramic...I'm thinking since I am getting the kitchen redone at some point, I will change all of that ceramic then to a newer more modern cermaic since those areas will get a lot wear and tear. Thoughts?

ps. thank you for the specific floor recommendations. Really helps to narrow the search

@rberesh73

Curious to know what your floor decision is.

Hi there. So funny that you wrote me about that. Since last I posted here I have had all my oak doors and trim now painted white to give me a better sense of where I could go with flooring. With the dark doors.....everyone said I was pretty limited to what I could go with but now the sky is the limit. All I know at this point is I will be going with engineered hardwoord and I"ve made the decision to run it throughout the top floor and also the entire main floor. Colorwise or texture wise...wow.....not sure what to do.

Smart move! Look forward to seeing your finished project.

Would you have any suggestions of what way you would go forward for flooring

anyone

You have to give us more information. All I am gleaming from the above post is that the trim and doors that were ebony have been painted white. Assume you kept the white walls.

Virtually any hardwood floor you choose will work with white trim. We don't know what your style is, what your furnishings look like, what colors you love, just that you have white trim and that you don't want yellow.

What color are your kitchen cabinets? Countertop? Bathroom cabinets/countertops? Do you have wood furniture or painted? What colors/stains? What is the style?

Hogen has asked really good questions. Floor selection should be based on answers to those.

It is a good time to think about the followings:

solid or engineered format, wood species, board width and thickness, how much characters you can bear, warm or cool tone, etc.

I mentioned that my doors and trim are now white as those are probably the only constants that will stay. With that being said, I would like to keep my walls a lighter color along the lines of grey. I want to stay clear of paints like beige.

I will try to give you more information to see if this helps. First off, I am planning on running the flooring upstairs and the main floor. With that being said the main floor is will be going over a big reno over the next year. Onto the questions.

What color are your kitchen cabinets? Countertop?

In addition to the floors, my entire kitchen is going to be redone. Other than I will be going with white for the kitchen, I can't answer much beyond that.

Bathroom cabinets/countertops? Do you have wood furniture or painted? What colors/stains? What is the style?

Again, main floor bathroom will also need to be upgraded. As well, the living room and family room also will need refurnishing. I would say my tastses for furniture decor though are pretty conservative that try to stay inbetween modern with traditonal. I'm not into things like wallpaper, extremely loud colors or rugs. I like a clean look but also something might catch the eye a bit. I can show 1 room that I have basically finished with furnishings if it helps.

My main floor is pretty much a blank slate at this point. I can show pics of the late out or the house itself if that helps.