Hi. So Sorry. Ordering windows seems to be more complex than imagined. Ours didn’t fill the whole area and the contractor had to make the drywall bend into the casing. In the kitchen where the backsplash is, they wanted to fill the extra with tile( instead they added a tiny bit of trim that filled the gap up to the tile). Wondering if all your new windows are anywhere near where a tile backsplash could help if it surrounds the windows?

The inspo picture has drywall returns. You don't have space for drywall returns but you could use drywall L bead around the frames....IF allowed by the manufacturer's installation instructions. A bunch of the new drywall will have to come down and be replaced. L bead to frame the opening. The new drywall will have to be cut much more precisely. None of that 'close counts' slap dash biz.

IF the mfg allows---many people don't realize that the casing around doors and windows does more than cover gaps & shims. The casing serves to keep window & door jambs from going squirrely and helps to stiffen up the framing around the weak links (openings). Particularly important with windows/ doors that have real wood jambs.

Drywall returns around windows--not a fan. Owned a previous home with them. If you forget that you have a window open & you get wind driven rain inside---well, you get the picture. Drywall repairs get added to the To Do list.

The layers don't have anything to do with the difference you are seeing in the picture and your application in all likelihood. More likely has to do with the wall depth that is pictured vs. yours. The poster above detailed out what can be done to accommodate a drywall return.

Fairly simple as outlined by the two posters above me. Kind of frightening that your "contractor" says nothing can be done with the windows however.

It looks like your windows were ordered with the optional extension jambs to fill the width of your 6" (nominal) exterior walls. The inspiration picture does not have those so they are able to provide a site-built jamb that returns into the window.

However, looking at your rough opening, it appears that the main wall framing was left larger than this specific window's requirements and the drywall was installed up to this opening (if remodel then fitting in old size, if new construction maybe delayed in getting windows or a change in window size?). Then 1x framing was added to make the rough opening smaller to accept the window. So, if the window was removed, you could cut back this extra furring 1/2" to allow drywall (new full sheets as ci_lantro explains) to butt up against the window jamb extensions for a non-cased look.

Any updates? How did it go?

Around the bathroom windows - we added the tinest trim around the window. I have the countertop people coming with this week and we will either bring the marble to the window (they said they can bevel it), or we add the tinest trim like the bathroom. We debated about the case bend, but we are too far along and we know the contractor will charge an arm for the change. Will def keep this in mind for any other windows. Here is a picture of the bathroom if you can make out the trim, they didn't paint the trim yet.