Were it mine, I would remove the roostock sprout, and any that follow there on the rootstock. It is sucking energy from the graft, not to mention the flower.

FWIW I would also risk lightly lightly lightly scraping one or two of the nodes on the graft and apply some rooting hormone (or the stuff they use on orchids) to promote more growth ... kiki paste.

Leave the flower on, although it may fall off anyway since it is indoors. Get it in the sun outside next year, at least by May. Your soil looks as though it is very fast draining. That clay pot [if it is a clay pot], however, may be sucking moisture from the plant. I would also lift the plant a little, but not till next spring. Think father's day as a time to lift and repot, if that is on your agenda.

Thank you- I'll look into the kiki paste thing.

It is in terra cotta in a fast mix- initially it was in ceramic outside but when I checked for root rot I decided to switch just in case is was too moist. I did lift it a bit but there were good roots and it was struggling so I left them in place.

No thoughts as to the graft being ugly/sloppy or does it look normal for this stage? Is it possible that it may some day be attractive?

@cearbhaill (zone 6b Eastern Kentucky) As you can see in these pictures, the radical change in thickness between the rootstock and scion will diminish with time. I think it's almost essential to remove anything branching off of the root stock, as it will not only rob the scion of energy, it will tend to additionally thicken the root stock.

You can hasten the closing of the V-shaped wounds by using a scalpel or other very sharp tool to shave away the callus on both side of each V. Make the cuts straight and clean and cut only deep enough to expose living tissue. This speeds up callus formation.

You can see I did this on this maple after callus growth on the lower right side of the wound had stalled. I have a 1/4" chisel I keep honed to scalpel-sharp with a 30,000 grit water stone, specifically for this purpose.

After you trim back the callus to living tissue, wrap a piece of aluminum foil around the wound area to hold moisture in, which promotes rapid callusing. Some other timeline images of this particular wound and how it healed as well as the tree's progress:

In center - large white wound ^^^

New Zealand sphagnum moss ^^^

I covered the moist moss with foil ^^^ for the maple, but the moss might not be appropriate for the Adenium. The foil will help, but when you remove the foil, make sure you transition the covered area to full sun over a period of a week or two.

some additional shaving done here

The initial chop back of the trunk was to ensure a rapid taper from the base of the trunk to the upper part of the trunk. You might consider chopping the trunk of the scion back to a lower branch after some time has past and the scion has thickened, not only to shorten the specimen, but to make the taper transition smoothly as well.

Taken today. I think it's about ready for a bonsai pot - next spring at repot time, probably.

Al

Thank you Al for the time it took to help me.

I shall read a bit more regarding the surgery then implement your suggestions.