Is there anything wrong with the cast iron tub?

We replaced an acrylic jetted bathtub with a Kohler cast iron tub. We live in Dallas and our house is built on a slab. Even with our mild winters, the acrylic tub never kept the water hot for long in winter. The cast iron tub holds the heat and feels more substantial. I vote cast iron (also bought porcelain over cast iron kitchen and bathroom sinks. Love the look and feel.

There is nothing wrong with cast iron...it's just heavy. Costs a bit more to buy and again to install. Last tub we put in took 5 guys to set using dollys, come-a-longs and lots of brute strength. As that was a long soaker tub, the electric radiant flooring went fully under to keep the tub water hot even longer. I have C.I. in my home, it's a salvaged tub that they no longer make. Wouldn't trade it!

nothing wrong with it besides the color. I thought of having it resurfaced/ reglazed, but I am getting mixed reviews of the process. I don't want to be stuck with a chipped tub in a few years after redoing the whole bathroom. I really like the Kohler Archer acrylic tub, but always thought cast iron was the only way to go. I am concerned about getting the CI tub up to the second floor, and the cost of the same tub I have in CI is twice the cost of the acrylic.

Cast iron are expensive tubs if in need of re glazing have someone come over and do it for you ,these tubs are not only a luxury to have but they keep the water warmer for a longer period of time in comparison to the acrylic tubs.

I don't know where you are, but "Striking Image", in North Texas, does a wonderful job on cast iron finishes. See their website at www.GETSTRUck.com.

Capitalize ALL of GETSTRUCK (above)

My situation is the same to bimillie's. Since your posting was in 2013, would you be willing to tell me the outcome? I am hearing mixed reviews on glazing and my cast iron tub is in excellent shape except for the dated color. I was also looking at the Kohler Archer as a replacement if glazing is not the way to go. What decision did you make and what has been the outcome? The tub is 23 years old.

Thank you so much Mr. Pearson for this followup - very, very helpful. I am getting ready to demo out an old CI bathtub, will replace with another CI for sure now. Your experience with switching to acrylic is a learning lesson. I am sorry to hear of your troubles but value your honesty in helping others on the verge of making same decisions.

The reason the base material is cracking is they used the wrong products. People don't like to read instructions and use whatever they feel works rather then what is the correct products. Plumbers use everything from thinnest to plaster to set tubs. I had a plumber argue with me that he loved using plaster to set tubs.

Tubs need to be set in a dry thick mortar bed.

As for refinishing a cast iron tub there is no way a on site painter can apply the same finish as applied at the factory. They are painting on a finish where the original is a coating that is heat or fire cured.

There isn't that much difference in cost between the 2 and the labor should actually be less with the cast iron.

wannabath is correct, acrylic tubs need to be set in a mortar bed for them to not flex and crack, I've seen many installers not use anything to set these tubs. Secondly, an applied epoxy finish is not like the glazing that is done in the factory, but I have had this done on several projects and it turned out very well and stood up to a lot of abuse and still looks great. However, not all tub refinishers are created equal. Its best to look at their products before you hire them and look at the warranty. Another material that is available in some tub configurations is a combination of resin with volcanic rock. It hold the heat better than acrylic, doesn't scratch like acrylic, but is lighter than cast iron. On new construction I still use cast iron for secondary baths, but use the volcanic rock tubs in master baths. Victoria and Albert make these tubs.

Before installing an acrylic tub I like to cover it with spray foam underneath. I have found this greatly helps to retain heat. Some tubs have feet to support the tub floor but I normally put globs of mortar in specific locations and the fill the rest with foam later.

Nothing beats cast iron if you can afford the cost and find the right installer.

We are getting ready to replace an acrylic tub. I'm insisting on Cast Iron. It's going to be a pain to install but I'm not tearing down and replacing tile again. The pro that suggested the mortar base for an acrylic tub is spot on from what I've researched (not that the individual needs any props from a layman). However, putting in a mortar base vs. the foam insets that are an alternative is basically building a cement foundation/form around the tub. If you ever needed to replace it, now you have to hammer out concrete (think about a swimming pool base except the tub is a top shell). Cast iron might chip but you can fix that and it's reliably not going to leak. That's not true with Acrylic. They crack, you can patch but unless there's under support, it's going to crack again as it will continue to get brittle and flex less and less overtime. If you want a one and one (nearly) forever solution where if you needed to replace in the future (design choice) - cast iron is your way to go. If you're willing to concrete in a foundation and you hope it's thorough and the Acrylic has no defects, then Acryllic might be a one and done option. One other consideration, for those in earthquake or places where they tell you to get in your tub - not with Acrylic you don't.

Hi- Lou Pearson here, it was me who posted the comments about our acrylic tubs flexing after a few years. We had an amazing contractor actually put in those tubs, not just a plumber. He did set them into a mortar base, as I watched this happen. We ended up selling that home and now live in Berkeley in a 104 year old Craftsman with original CI tub. Even though it is scarred & the finish is completely gone, I still prefer it to a new acrylic. Cheers!