properly prune it off and be done with it....

trees do NOT heal like bones..so that branch will NEVER have interior structure... the bark might heal.... encapsulate.. if you will ... but not the heartwood ... so in a few years.. when the branch is 2 or 3 feet longer.. and there is a heavy crop.. it will fail again..

you may as well spend the years ..growing a new branches.. rather than messing with this..actually.. the tree will take care of that without much of any effort from you ... except to reduce to one bud.. if more than one breaks dormancy ....

trust me.. i tried it all... gravity ALWAYS wins ..

pruning fruit trees for crop is much different than tree training.. and your tree is probably getting to the age where it might be worth your while to learn how..

do you know what type the pear is??

ken

ps: your sip tie is going to scar the other healthy branch.. then you will have two damaged branches...

I have had good success saving broken branches on Kousa dogwoods and rhododendrons by splinting them first, and then wrapping the splint and broken branch in tape, and supporting them in a similar manner, but I don't recall ever trying it on a fruit tree. iirc, I gave them the entire season to mend/scar. If it works, that's great and you'll know fairly soon about that.

@party_music50 Awesome. The interesting part is that the leaves have NOT began to wilt, so for that.....I'm optimistic. 🤞

Nice and all to desire to save the branch, but just take a look at your tree to observe the more upright angle of the other branches coming off the main trunk, these are stronger and more capable of carrying a heavy fruit load, the one you are attempting to save is very compromised and will require support for years to come.

You can certainly try it as an experiment, I've done similar things and they worked out fine. With 5+ years of additional growth rings that small defect in the center of the branch will make no difference to the ultimate strength of the branch.

That said, it's a tiny branch on a tiny tree, so I'd almost certainly just lop it off and encourage a replacement if indeed you want any branch that close to the ground. I'd be making a plan now for the ultimate shape of the tree, encouraging branching in the directions I wanted and discouraging ones that don't fit the overall game plan.

I'm always amazed at how, after a few years, the pruning I thought was way too aggressive turns out to have been insufficient. I took out the major branch on one of my apples a few years ago, removing nearly half of the total crown of the now 12 year old tree becaue it was growing in a bad direction from a weak junction. The tree now has a much better shape and is loaded with apples this year that the new branches will be able to support without breaking-- at least until the raccoon comes for his harvest.

" How long will it take to heal? "

It will never heal completely and should probably be removed. Unless the 'repair' was made very quickly after the injury - within the first 24 hours - the exposed tissue will dry out to the point where any reunion of the broken branch is moot. In time the tree will encapsulate the injury, the limb will survive via what remaining intact tissue is still present but there will never be any connective regrowth at the injury site and the branch will have lost any ability to bear much weight. Not really an issue with a purely ornamental tree but not practical for a fruit bearing one.