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tamara_gonzalez18

Please help! Kitchen sink area with lots of hardware.

3 years ago

I’m sorry this is long. You will have my undying gratitude for helping me with this.

I have spent days searching for an image or explanation for this for this. If I get at least five answers, I am going with the majority response.

I don’t have pics because the cabinet maker is putting on the knobs for us before he does the install.

My sink base is 36”. Our cabinet maker puts tilt outs on all of his sink cabinets. This will be in a single drawer slab, not two smaller ones.

We will also have a trash pull out on the left and a normal door on the right side of this sink base.

Next to the sink base on the right will be a 5” spice pullout and then the door that opens the lazy susan.

We are using pulls on the base cabs and knobs on top cabs. Pulls vary between 6.5” and 9.5”. The 9’5” is for 30” drawer fronts and might also be used on the tilt out.

In all of the options below, there will be a vertical pull on the door for the lazy susan which is right next to the 5” spice pullout. This is why I am thinking a knob on the spice pullout is the way to go because there would be two vertical pulls 3 to 4 inches away from each other. Husband wants a small pull style knob. I’m not sold on one random different thing, but it might be more coherent then a round knob.

What to do?

I am leaning toward option 3 but am worried about weight of trash pullout. The trash can will be small to fit under sink and will use Blum slides.

Please weigh in on size of tip out pull and round or short version of pull style for spice pullout.

Option #1: horizontal on tip out (6.5 or 9.5)
horizontal on trash pullout AND
normal door next to it
Knob on spice pullout (round - only
one in the base cabinets
or small pull style knob)

Option #2: horizontal on tip out (6.5 or 9.5)
horizontal on trash pullout
vertical on normal door next to it
Knob on spice pullout (round - only
one in base cabinets or
small pull style knob) )

Option #3: horizontal on tip out (6.5 or 9.5)
vertical on trash pullout
vertical on normal door next to it
Knob on spice pullout (round - only
one in base cabinets
or small pull style knob)

Option # 4: drink tequila and tell the cabinet
guy to do whatever he wants

Comments (11)

  • 3 years ago

    This was very nicely spaced before I posted. Sorry it’s such a mess.

  • 3 years ago

    #4

    I personally don't like knobs on anything... I am planning ahead, age is a factor in pulls, arthritis

    symmetry isn't an issue with me and ease and convenience always wins out.

    Congratulations on the new build, I'll have a cocktail in your honor.

  • 3 years ago

    What are you putting on your upper doors? If you are doing knobs I would suggest

    Option #5 - horizontal on the tipout

    horizontal on the trash pullout.

    knob on the spice pullout (or horizontal - if you're putting on a knob make sure it's placed in the middle of the pullout)

    knob on the normal door

    But, what is going in the normal door and why isn't this space drawers? Just curious.

  • 3 years ago

    I know this is not what you asked, but it’s important so I will go ahead. I would tell the cabinet maker you don’t want the tilt-out at the sink. I have been on this forum many years and this is the first post I’ve seen one mentioned in 8-10 years. They fell out of favor for several reasons: they trap moisture in whatever you store there, they are one more cleaning chore ss they easily get gross, and - the most important reason - they push your sink back a couple of inches farther than it needs to be which makes using the sink hard on the back.

    I would also not get the spice pull-out. People who have them strongly dislike them - they force you to bend and peer to see the spices, and the bottles inevitably fall over and jostle. Take the 5” and make the adjacent cabinet or drawer wider by that amount.

    As to your question, I like how Jenna Bush Hager mixed her knobs and pullls. Regardless, the trash pull-out should not have a vertical pull.



  • 3 years ago

    “I would tell the cabinet maker you don’t want the tilt-out at the sink. I have been on this forum many years and this is the first post I’ve seen one mentioned in 8-10 years. They fell out of favor for several reasons: they trap moisture in whatever you store there, they are one more cleaning chore ss they easily get gross, and - the most important reason - they push your sink back a couple of inches farther than it needs to be which makes using the sink hard on the back.”

    Fact is, I have a sink tilt-out, and my kitchen has been posted on here many, many times. There’s nothing wrong, or gross about tilt-outs, as long as you don’t keep wet sponges or cleaning tools in them. I use mine to store a supply of unused, (still in their wrappers) blue Scotch scrubby sponges. Very convenient. Nothing moist, or gross. Nothing to clean.

    Does it push the sink back, making my back hurt? Not that I’ve noticed…and, I’m only 5’3”.


  • 3 years ago

    What is happening is that the original builder kitchen had the sink off center beneath a window. This run of cabinets is between walls, so there isn’t any wiggle room. In order to push the sink to the left and center the sink, a 5” pullout is going in between the sink cabinet and a corner lazy susan. We buy a number of spices in the industrial sized containers and plan to store those as well as oils and vinegars in the pullout. Small sized spices will go elsewhere.

    I love Darburka’s under sink drawers, but under the sink is the only convenient place for a trash can. All other lowers are drawers.

    I really don’t want to change anything else with the cabinet maker. He is taking this job as a favor. This cabinet maker does not usually work directly with customers and has hand drawn my kitchen three times. If the pop outs interfere with the sink, I will remove them myself.

  • 3 years ago
    last modified: 3 years ago

    @Tamara Gonzalez - Another reason it’s important is faucet clearance. The counter strip in front of an undermount sink is usually 3-4” - if there is a wall behind the sink (vs having the sink on an island), the farther back you push the sink, the less space for the faucet. The faucet space/clearance issue comes up often on this forum.

    Rather than taking my word for it or @darbuka’s example as what your sink placement will be, ask your cabinet maker and whoever is installing your sink the question of how wide will the counter strip in front of your sink be to allow for the tilt-out? Make sure their answer includes the counter edge profile (e.g. ogee, bullnose, bevel, half-ogee, etc.) which typically adds 3/4”.

  • 3 years ago

    @M Miller

    Thank you so much for sharing this information with me. I am absolutely not discounting what you’re saying. I don’t want to make anymore requests of my cabinet maker, but I will not hesitate to remove the trays if there are any problems with the sink.

    Clearly, I am new to this. You brought up a possible serious issue that I had not considered. I will never do something like this again without professional assistance.

  • 3 years ago

    @MMiller

    Thank you for sharing the pic of Jenna’s kitchen with me. It is helpful.

  • 3 years ago

    I had a vertical pull installed on my below the sink trash pull out 12 years ago. It works as good today as it did on the first day. So despite what some say on this forum it can be done that way.




    If you want your trash pullout handle horizontal then put the handle on the other sink base door horizontal too.


    IMO the hardware on the sink base doors should both have the same orientation.

  • 3 years ago

    I agree that they should be symmetrical. I notice that you used larger hardware. Maybe that’s the trick, because this layout is what I really want. It just looks normal.