Jenn-Air range coils issues

3 years ago

We have an old Jenn-Air slide-in electric range/oven with model number unreadable but think it could be E-33658 based upon what I see at the bottom of the burner cartridge (photo attached). It has two coil burners on each side and a downdraft exhaust in the middle. The two burners on the right are problematic. The smaller one turns very hot no matter the control knob position. The larger one does not turn on at all. Both seem loose in their connectors. So my questions are:

Do I have the correct model number? If not, what could it be? This is crucial info needed to find the right parts.

Where can I download repair/parts/installation manuals from?

Are the coil connectors replaceable or do I have to replace the whole cartridge?

Thank you in advance for your guidance.

Featured Answer

dadoes

3 years ago

A number on the burner cartridge would probably be the part number of the cartridge, not the model number of the appliance.

The model/serial may be on the label that's partially obscured at the left oven door hinge.

The smaller coil/burner that always operates at full-hot, that problem is probably related to the control for it, not to the cartridge/burner. The control moderates the temperature by cycling the burner on/off for shorter or longer periods of time (on 100% of the time at High/max setting). A control may fail such that it keeps the power on continuously instead of cycling at lower settings.

The one that doesn't work at all, problem more likely is that the burner/coil is bad.

Have you tried swapping the cartridges to see if the problem moves accordingly with the cartridge?

Reference the four prongs on the cartridge (2nd photo), two of them presumably are the power circuit for one of the coils, the other pair feeds power to the other coil. You can possibly test if a given coil is bad by checking for electrical continuity between the correct two prongs with a multimeter. Trick is to figure out which two prongs are for which burner. Could be 1-2 and 3-4 are the pairs (adjacent). Or 1-3 and 2-4 (alternating). Or 1-4 and 2-3 (outer and inner). And whether you have a multimeter and understand how to use it.

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (9)

rmk9785e
Original Author
3 years ago
Thank you. The cartridge plate lists the compatible US and Canadian mfg identifiers. As noted, the model/serial number plate is obscured and looks unreadable therefore the cartridge is the only clue to the model.

I have a multi-meter and can diagnose the coil connectors. I have since found out that I can replace the connector blocks. I was hoping to find a manual to ensure I am ordering the correct part number for these. I suspect I will have to remove the controller switch to identify its part number for replacement.

My problem is that it is a downdraft model and there is no hood above it therefore I will have to find a similar model if I ever have to replace the whole unit.
Related Professionals
Little Rock Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Raleigh Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Toms River Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Virginia Beach Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Stamford Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Wheeling Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Richmond Bathroom Remodelers · Sedalia Bathroom Remodelers · Beatrice Bathroom Remodelers · Los Angeles Bathroom Remodelers · Santa Barbara Bathroom Remodelers · Glenwood Springs Bathroom Remodelers · Carson City Bathroom Remodelers · New Orleans Kitchen Remodelers · Medford Kitchen Remodelers
wdccruise
3 years ago
According to this discussion, the "cartridge" part number is #A105-8 but appears to have been replaced by (or is compatible with) #A122BA. That part is available at searspartsdirect and ebay though they are frightfully expensive.

Here's the parts diagram. If you click on the "element" part number (#1 or #24), you can see the Whirlpool (manufacturer) part number and search for that. Your broken element might be replaceable, eliminating the need to replace the entire cartridge.
rmk9785e
Original Author
3 years ago
I have replaced both receptacle blocks (Part #:120016760) but neither element warms up. Beyond checking for continuity at the contact spades, how do I proceed with troubleshooting?
wdccruise
3 years ago
I am all for fixing broken appliances; I fixed my 18-year-old dishwasher, old heat pump, vacuum cleaner. Is downdraft venting required? If not, maybe it's time to send old Bessie to the boneyard. You can buy the Samsung NE63B8211SS induction range for $1100. The GE JS645SLSS radiant range is even less at $850.
dadoes
3 years ago
Have you tested for voltage at the receptacle block for the respective coil socket pairs?
rmk9785e
Original Author
3 years ago
I will try it both by swapping the cartridge and checking for voltage at the receptacle block. Where can I find the circuit/wiring diagram without a model number? The model number on this range has been defaced for some reason. I suspect any of the older model diagrams would suffice since most model differences around the same time are probably cosmetic.

The models suggested by @wdccruise will require installing a ceiling mount vent since the existing range is a downdraft model.
rmk9785e
Original Author
3 years ago
Swapped the cartridge and it works so there is voltage at the receptacle blocks, The receptacle/coil has continuity for each but don't power up when plugged. The only remaining suspect is contact spades at the terminal block.

Time to either buy complete used cartridge on eBay since new parts are not available or replace the whole range combined with a ceiling mount vent which is looking more attractive in the long run.

Thank you all for hand holding toward a decision.
wdccruise
3 years ago
There are cartridge parts here.