We got a subzero two years ago. The old fridge and had a very long cord and the outlet was 54" off the floor. The new subzero had a very short cord and we had to have the outlet lowered.

118" is incredibly long. Are you 100% sure that isn't a typo in the specs? Have you read the installation guides?

You will need to move it. To be built in, the SubZero basically will need to have no cord behind it - the cord will just go from the cut in spot on the top of the fridge right into the outlet.

Thanks for the replies. To be clear, the new refrigerator will not be a Subzero, as those are not available.

Here is the link to one of the units we are considering, showing the 118" cord length. Does that seem too long and suggest a typo?:

https://media3.bosch-home.com/Documents/16233241_B30BB935SS_Spec_Sheet.pdf

And here is the installation guide where it shows the low outlet location:

https://media3.bosch-home.com/Documents/8001252450_C.pdf

Here is the historic installation guide for the subzero 511 where it shows the electrical outlet up top:

https://www.subzero-wolf.com/-/media/files/united-states/product-downloads/legacy-products/sub-zero/500-series/500-series-ig.pdf

We have not removed our old Subzero yet, but I am expecting that is where we will find the outlet, though I guess we could be surprised.

I would love to not need to move the electrical outlet, wherever it is.

Oh yeah, good point. Duh. I'd think any built in fridge would have the same requirement, but I only know about SZs.

One issue is that standard cabinet configurations are matched by the refrigerator dimensions such that there may not be room behind the refrigerator for the cord or for the plug. If base cabinets are set out from the walls a bit, countertops configured to be deeper than 24 inches plus overhang, the refrigerator can be out from the wall by the same bit and there will be room for reaching non-optimal outlets.

This approach may provide other conveniences such as more room behind the sink fixtures and capability for both European and USA dishwasher depths.

On the first link, there is a diagram of a shaded area labeled B. This is likely a cut out area in the back of the fridge that will house the extra cord and the plastic that holds the prongs when the fridge is pushed into place. This will allow for a truely flush fit. If the outlet were in the middle of the wall, for example, the plug would push against the back of the fridge causing the fridge to stick out the same depth as the plug itself.

Yes it is usually a recess in a specific spot on the back of the refrigerator that allows the plug to stick out from the wall and the cord to stick out from that without being bent or crushed.

I did not know what Subzero I was getting when I did the electrical plan for my kitchen so there is actually an outlet for both top and bottom plug Subzero units.

To some extent the cords on these things have to be long enough to plug in with the refrigerator far enough out of the very precisely sized cabinet for someone to be able to reach in and do it.

Thank you for all of these replies, which really help in understanding the issue.

Don't forget that in some installations, the cord has to be long enough to have the fridge plugged in and still be out of the cabity (if applicable); unless you can plug the fridge in from the side opening).

Don't forget that in some installations, the cord has to be long enough to have the fridge plugged in and still be out of the cabity (if applicable); unless you can plug the fridge in from the side opening).