Software
Houzz Logo Print
webuser_442933329

Fisher & Paykel washing machine (GWL10) with fault code 131

2 years ago

I have a Fisher & Paykel Ecosmart washing machine (model GWL10US) from around 2001 that worked reliably until 2011 when it had issues starting the cycle. I had it fixed and the service order shows a fault code of 131 and a replacement of the rotor position sensor (part 420296P). From the service manual: "131. (10000011) Repetitive Rotor Position Sensor Error"


After that fix it worked great for the last 12 years, but just started having issues starting again. It's intermittent in that if I keep trying I can get it to eventually start and when it starts it gets through the entire cycle without issue. When I see the startup failing it displays the same code as before (10000011). Surprisingly, if I enter diagnostic mode right after this error there are no fault codes shown.


I reached out to the same repair person I had used before expecting that he'd just want to replace the rotor position sensor again, but after explaining everything this was his response:


"According to tech support the original fault code will remain until a new fault will replace it (even if you unplug it). So I'm thinking you don't need the sensor. And usually fault code 131 is not intermittent like yours is behaving.

The three things it could be are the controller, wiring issue or the pump

drawing too much amps & causing a power surge. In 25 years of doing Fisher Paykel

I think I've only changed 3-4 wiring harnesses. My hunch it's that, because of the intermittent issue. But it could be the controller itself & or the pump. Unfortunately it's a trial and error at this point"


Does that analysis sound correct?


That makes it sound like I could be spending a lot in repairs that might not even help, so perhaps at this point I should just get a new washer? I like the idea of keeping it running given how reliable it's been over the past 20 years, but the idea of spending $500 or more and still having a broken washing machine doesn't sound like a good idea.


Comments (7)

  • 2 years ago

    The service manual I have for GWL10 says fault codes "will only be displayed for 1 cycle after the fault has been rectified." I take that to mean a machine fault will clear on the 2nd full no-fault cycle following correction of whatever caused it ... but F&P's language in service manuals is sometimes open to interpretation. There unfortunately is no procedure stated to manually clear a recorded fault. (Later models are said to clear a machine fault after 8 successful cycles but may retain in a separate memory register the cycle count at which the last fault occurred).

    Regards to problems getting a cycle started, what exactly is the typical behavior? Does it at first do nothing when Start is pressed? Or it starts to fill for x period of time (or gets to a specific point in operation), then stops? Goes completely off or remains powered on with no action? Displays a fault? No fault until you turn it back on and check diagnostics? How many restarts to get it going? Power Off/On each time (or pull/replug) or not? All cycle choices show the same behavior?

    The pump on GWL10 is an integral part of the machine's power supply. Electrical failure of the pump interrupts power to the entire machine (or thermal cut-out until it cools/resets, no related pump fault is recorded because the control board has no power to do so).

  • 2 years ago
    last modified: 2 years ago

    Thanks for the reply dadoes!


    The main issue is that I'll press "start" and I'll hear water starting to fill but the water will stop within half a second. And then a second or two later it will start to fill again but stop within half a second, etc. it will keep repeating this.


    Here's a video I took earlier that demonstrates the issue:

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/7QvmBGPC4VGgUf648

    The video shows me trying to start a wash and instead of filling with water it keeping stopping and trying to restart the water flow. I then turn the power off and enter diagnostic mode, which already has the hold and slow illuminated, but I cycle through the spin speed and end up back on those selections. You can see there are no error codes. I then hit the regular cycle button to start the drain pump test. The drain pump functions but makes an odd noise (I just resolved that by spraying some WD-40 on it).


    After this video was taken I had the insight to let the failing condition occur for longer before giving up. And after about a minute of letting it start/stop the water flow is when I saw it display the 131 code. Immediately after the code displayed I turned the machine off and entered diagnostic mode and saw there were no stored codes (similar to video).


    It's intermittent, but typically I see the issue the first time i try to start a wash. After power cycling the machine via the power button it will sometimes work. Sometimes I need to try three or four times.. Once it starts filling normally, it runs the whole cycle without issue.


    I have not tried other cycle choices but can if you think it would be useful info.

  • 2 years ago

    Thanks for all the info! I'll do some more investigation when I have a chance and report back.

  • 2 years ago

    @dadoes

    Well, sadly the machine seems to have died completely now. I was starting a wash, it made some terrible sounds and a burning smell and then completely died. No power to panel at all. So I ordered a new washing machine from Costco.


    The only question now is how to drain the water out of it. I used a cup to get water out of the tub but there's still quite a bit that I can hear sloshing around under the tub. I tried lowering the output of the drain hose to floor level and a little water come out but not much. I also tried a manual transfer pump with one end stuck in below the agitator but wasn't able to get very much of it.

  • 2 years ago

    Is there a pressing need to clear-out 100% of the residual water? Disconnect the diverter hose from the pump sump. Place a suitable pan under the machine and set the machine down to normal-level position instead of leaning back so all the water can run out.

    Note that there are sealed, gyroscopic balance rings partially filled with water, integral to the top and base of the spin basket. You may hear water moving/sloshing in them.

    Steve Harris thanked dadoes
  • 2 years ago

    I just wanted to make sure there wasn't any reason for them to disallow the free haul away