I believe you'll need supports, it's quite a span.

the mock up is fictional, right?

Have you imagined your own stuff displayed?

... if it turns into storage rather ran display, you'll wish you had some closed space(s)

Is that heater "on"? We were told to allow 12" of clearance above a baseboard heater, and 6" to the sides. It looks like your base is just above the heater?

@sammy J
Yes, that is a working baseboard. Would that be a problem in terms of heat/safety? I’ve seen contradictory things online.

In terms of supports, what do you suppose?

@Lyn Nielson
We have a lot of books that will fill the space so I don’t imagine it will just collect ‘stuff’. I will be displaying personally meaningful/beautiful items in the narrow shelves to the right and will keep the ‘square’ area around the window sparsely decorated. But yes, it will certainly look different from the way it was mocked up

You cannot build that unit directly on top of the baseboard like that. Not sure the exact clearance required but you would need a good 8" in my opinion. The other issue is legs along would not support that unit alone, let along loading it up with books.

You'll need extra support if you're potentially going to be putting a lot of weight on the shelves. These can be mostly hidden behind the drywall and built in the cabinet. They make them without the short little buttress piece but if you can get away with having it, like not being able to see it across a room, I would opt for it. I would use 6 or so of them. They are used to hold up cantilevered granite slabs.

would be a great use of space if you were able to put hidden drawers or doors into those square "obstacles"

@beverlyFLADeziner

Thanks for the info on French cleats! Seem like a great option. You would be comfortable using them for a bookcase full of books and china?

Also, we don’t own a TV so that space is just there for a window.

@Dean Klasson
Yes, the ‘boxes’ are also storage. They will have doors.

French cleat is not an option with this kind of weight.

"I would like to put heavy books and/or china in this bottom cabinet." then a kid climbing on it to reach something high up...oy. Either way my biggest concern is eventual sagging under the weight... you'd have to find the studs for sure.

The left side shelves are going to sag. Sooner than later.

Any bookshelf design should start here:

https://woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/

@patricia Colwell Consulting

Thanks for your input! I agree, the shelves as shown in the pic are too thin. The pic is just a representation of the design. I do plan on using much thicker wood to hold the weight appropriately. If you have a sense of how thick is needed that would be great!

In terms of item worth displaying, I want to use the small shelves on the right to display judaica that right now is just in cabinets. (Silver menorahs, candlesticks, cups etc)

But the main goal is to have a place to put our books which are now in the basement in boxes. (We moved a year ago)

How would you get rid of the baseboard? I don’t want to create a whole new heating system….

Thanks for your thoughts!

@ci_lantro
That’s a cool tool. I’ll def check it out!

Hey all: I had someone come last night to take measurements and give me a quote. He looked at the baseboard heat and said that the air flows out (sideways) not up. And that the top of the baseboard doesn’t get hot enough to create a problem. Does this sound right to the collect Houzz ‘you’ ?
Thanks again for all the input!

Adding an air deflector might help as well.

cool! Thanks for that idea!

Firstly, I would protect the shelves from excess heat; fire danger is the most important thing and definitely heat always rises and doesn't move sideway unless it's pushed sideways, ha ha. So:

1. reduce width of both thick "ornamental" beam wood veneer pieces. This gives a few inches so that the heater UNDER the shelves isn't so close. This also moves shelving away from heater on left wall

2. add 3 additional "legs" for additional support of heavy books or similar

3. add additional vertical supports on left to help with weight and to give strength to left side of shelving system

4. on the right the shelves become a little wider because the width of ornamental wood is reduced

Good luck & have fun!

@Jeff Smith

Oh wow- thank you for taking the time to mock up the picture with your edits! You included a good amount of ideas I hadn't considered (especially the side panel), and helped me visualize the feet/legs of the bookcase. I'm not sure what you are considering ornamental. The fluted wood parts of the bookcase are cabinets that open for closed storage so I wouldn't want to make them thinner. And i'll try to have fun in the process :)

For the heavy books- the thick closed horizontal portion at the bottom does not seem very tall, so if the heavy books are going in there you may want to measure and see if they will fit.

For the rest of the shelves, if this is to support a library of books (seforim), a thickness of 1" at minimum or more should be good for the shelves. 1.25" or more is even better if a heavy Talmud or similar is going on the shelves.

Isn't this hot water heat?

I am not sure how the shelf right above the baseboard unit is any different than wood radiator covers or registers routed out the baseboard of kitchen cabinets. Isn't this a bit different from electric baseboard or forced hot air?

Hi @Nutttcrew

Yes, exactly- this is for seforim. I was hoping the closed portion would house china and the talmud (gemorahs) could go on the open shelving. I did measure to be sure they will fit but thanks for double checking!

I will pass on the 1 to 1.25 thickness to the contractor on the project. Helpful to have someone familiar with seforim and these specific needs! Thank you!

@palimpsest

Yes- it is a hot water heater. That’s so true! It’s covered with wood right now! Why would the bookshelf create a hazard? Unless radiator covers are treated differently so as not to cause a hazard?

Oh, I didn't realize that those ornamental veneer wide wood thingies (?) were cabinets that open? Ok, the design I suggested wouldn't hold.

However, I still maintain that one doesn't want any wood so close to baseboard heaters! Let's say the residents are gone and the thermostats malfunction and the heaters overheat? This is a recipe for a fire or or least discoloring or ruining the wood.

What an artful shelving wall you’ve designed. Congratulations.

For the safety of your family, please listen to the other commenters’ advice about leaving at least the recommended clearance between the baseboard heater and your shelving unit. Years of experience, including innumerable tragedies, have led to the creation of these standards.

As a former police and fire reporter, I can pass along what a fire chief once told me after a house fire: Repeated exposure to heat can cause materials inside the home to dry out and, essentially, become tinder. That’s just one example of a hidden risk such rules are designed to reduce or eliminate. Even if you don’t completely understand safety standards, please assume that they were created by knowledgeable professionals to protect lives.

Your design is pretty. I wouldn't think more than a few inches would be needed for clearance if the heater is hot water as opposed to hot air, but I am not an expert on that. Maybe you could inset the shelving IN the wall between the studs. What is behind that wall?

Have you considered placing a piece of thin, heat resistant material between the top of the radiator and the bottom of the wood?

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/sheets/performance-properties~flame-resistant/

• Don't like the shelves across the top as it makes the window the focal point of the whole wall. This is not a feature window.
• Put the same support on the left side to balance the large leg on the other side. or make all legs the same width
• Cut the side panels off at the highest shelves- don't continue them to the ceiling. Just continue the last two side panels on the right so that part looks like a stand alone unit.
• Continue the side panel down on the wall to the heater. Make that panel out of fire proof material under the lowest shelf. so that it looks the same. Can you move the heater along that wall for 6-8"?
• I like the strong line across the bottom but why not make drawers there which will give a bit of enclosed storage- very plain drawers or doors without handles.

Double the 3/4 plywood on all components. Asssuming you were using plywood? Do not use hardwood the plywood is more stable choice to keep lines straight.

You can use floating shelf brackets to support the long spans. Woudl actually be a neat look as it would look too thin but actually support weight. If your willing to build say 2" shelves you can build torsion style shelves to support weight.

Simpler way would be to use Sandiply as a backer to support and give structure and just paint wall color.

Dont see heat being an issue and just use a deflecter.

Actually that is a super siimple sharp design there!!

Ok- it looks like there is a real divide in the comments here whether or not hot water baseboard heaters create a hazard re wooden bookshelves 😬😬 Guess I’ll have to do more research
@lalucci77- thanks for that link! Will look into it. Sounds like a good solution potentially
@Gannonco- yes, plan on using plywood so I will take your suggestion of doubling. Have to google some of your suggestions because I’m not super familiar with some of those terms. Appreciate the feedback!
And thanks for the compliment on the design aspect :)

There is no doubt heat dries out and changes the appearance of wood. I personally don't believe it is a fire hazard but deflecting heat as much as you possibly can is in your best interest.

Right, at the very least I’m going to put the deflectors on, and open to placing a heat resistant strip. I’m just hesitant to change the whole design to include the 8” clearance etc

@hollywaterfall
This is an exterior wall. Inset shelving could be super cool but wouldn’t that be super pricy?

Not my style of house, but if you love it, go for it - it worse. Glad you are not going with grey or other ugly modern ideas thankfully on the way out. I prefer antiques and old houses and you have a new modern house. Have fun - enjoy.