Check this out: https://www.thespruce.com/pruning-clematis-plants-1402781

Group One blooms on last years growth so very little pruning is required.

If you still want the one you have chosen then clip the stems every few feet which will make it much easier to remove.

New Dawn is incredibly thorny. It would be a fairly fraught experience pruning a clematis growing twining through it. You'll need good gloves and possibly a face visor.

Let me encourage you to go for it !! I’m a clematis crazy rose person . I plant type 3 clems with a ton of roses . In winter when the roses are dormant and leaves fall off, if you go to the bottom of the rose / Clem , it is very clear where the Clem is . I prune down to a lower set of buds . Nothing particular just wherever i can get in , chop chop and then inevitably there is a part of Clem in the top I can find and I pull out the part I cut away . It dosnt matter how thorny the rose is . I have no problem doing that and you won’t either . It’s just part of cleaning up the plants in the winter . I think clematis are the most beautiful companions for roses !

Thank you all! Honestly, I had no idea how thorny New Dawn was when I bought it - it appealed to me because, well, it's so pretty lol but also because it was one of the more cold and shade tolerant ones I could find. Whoops! I'll have to deal with it, I guess. Lilyfinch, do you have any group 1 clems? Just wondering, as toolbelt68 mentioned, if they don't require a lot of pruning maybe they'd be a good option? Though actually would I end up pruning it when pruning the rose and losing its blooms?

Over the years, I have grown clematis supported by all manner of plants - small trees including conifers, large shrubs, small shrubs and an assortment of roses. Through all these years of experience, it has become clear to me that hard prune or type 3 clems are the best for this purpose. Type 1's often grow far too large for their living supports and therefore require pruning, of which the timing is critical. They should be pruned immediately after flowering and that is generally as the rose is setting buds or beginning its first flush. Type 2's are too fussy with their pruning needs unless treated as a type 3 (which I tend to do anyway). But the type 3 clems or those that are suggested to be hard pruned are the easiest to deal with. They are pruned in late winter or early spring - the same time you would prune roses. You can either cut the clem back to 12-18 inches or a couple of buds, pull the dead vines away and then prune the rose - OR - prune the rose as you wish, ignoring the clematis (cutting its upper stems as necessary to get to the rose) until the rose has be pruned to your satisfaction. Then just cut back the remains of the clematis to whatever point you wish and remove all remaining loose vines from the rose. You may need to tug a bit but that won't hurt either plant.

Something that I think should be explicitly stated is that pulling a clematis out of a rose isn't that hard. It was the thing that held me back from planting the two together, but once I did, the clematis was basically a snip, and a quick yank.

Thank you, gardengal48! Very helpful info.

Also interesting that you mentioned group 1 often outgrowing their supports. I'd been thinking about a group 1 for a spot that's a bit tricky to get into for pruning but it's only about a 6-foot high obelisk so now I'm thinking maybe a group 1 isn't the answer for that spot after all!

I also would go with a type 3 like Lily said. It is easy to cut it at the bottom and pull the rest out. Easy no issues no matter how thorny, of course use leather gloves either way. Good luck! Clematises are great with roses.

One consideration is what zone you're in and how robust the support and base climbing rose is. Folks in warmer zones are the ones that tend to post great clematis and rose combinations. I posted years ago about a contest between clematis and roses where almost always the clematis won and pulled the support down. I don't think it would pull down a fence but it might swamp many climbing roses in my zone 5b (now apparently 6a).

I agree with mad gallica that it's not at all hard to prune a clematis from around a rose, if you're going to prune it back to the roots anyway.

Cynthia

Ah that's an interesting point, Cynthia! I'm in Canada - I think about the equivalent of USDA 6a/6b. Maybe waiting another year to plant the clematis might be good to give the rose more of a head start?

Hmm, I thought I posted this before dinner, but since no pixels were harmed, here we go again.

I used to have a Jackmanii growing up a R. hugonis. I don't anymore. The rose won. It wasn't even close. The rose was established, but the clematis survived for a few years, and got to a respectable size. It just couldn't compete with a rose the size of a garage.

One of the reasons people plant clematis with roses in the north is to get a second season of bloom from once-bloomers. Many of those are sturdy enough to drop kick a clematis into the fourth dimension, so competition isn't much of an issue.

LOL OK I see there is no easy answer to this so I'm just going to plant a Jackmanii with New Dawn and see what happens!! Thanks everyone!!

@ subk3 your rose and clematis look beautiful!

Absolutely gorgeous! I hope my Jackmanii gets with the program and turns into a bit more of a thug one of these days! It’s been a slow starter but is improving.

Just don't plant 'Polish Spirit' with a rose. Any rose. Mine overwhelmed. choked, amd smothered the rose I planted it with to death.

I tried again all by itself and it became a huge mass that took me hours to remove. I couldn't even see the structure I gave it to climb.

Pretty, though. I have to admit that.

This is something I tried as well and regretted it. It was a pain to get the Clematis trained where I wanted it to grow. And it was a literal pain to unwind the Clematis from thorns on a vigorous growing climbing rose. It is one thing to do this on a tiny climbing rose that neatly winds its way through a trellis. It's next to impossible to do this on a huge and vigorous climbing rose that densely covers the entire side of a house or fence line. You will never get all of the climbing vines out of that rose, and you will have scars if you try.

I found a better way to practice this idea is to put Clematis and rose side by side. I use an enormous 12-foot tall and six-foot wide trellis. The left main support for the trellis "belongs" to one species of Clematis. The right main support for the trellis belongs to another species of Clematis. The climbing rose is managed to occupy the area between the main supports. In this design, everyone owns their own real estate, and the points of border clash are minimal. You could allow some intermingling as you like, but cutting that back becomes a doable thing.

I will also say that I prefer type 2 Clematis. The reason is that you get blooms from *both* old wood *and* new growth. That means I leave the old wood in place and do not even need to do much pruning. Just make sure that your gardener knows to not trim back dead wood in Winter.

I always put a Winter-blooming Clematis on one of the main trellis supports. That would be a variety of something like Clematis cirrhosa var purpurascens such as "Freckles". So I get some Winter interest together with Summer interest, but remember I am zone 9b so it is easier for this to grow in our Winter.

I am still experimenting with this but it takes so long for things to grow out that it might be years until I find a better way.