Hi Terry!

When I rooted Juniperus virginiana, I was told to use cuttings from the lowest branches for best results. They did root really well and fairly fast using 'Dip & Grow' and very strong 450 NM blue LED lights.

J. s. doesn't layer naturally, maybe you can find someone who grafts to help you.

If you do decide to layer, don't completely cut off the phloem from the base plant.

Here's some information from 'Reference manual of woody plant propagation, Dirr & Heuser Jr.

It doesn't mention layering either.

I took pictures to save on typing it all out. Hope it helps.

Hello Terry, I got interested in air and ground layering about 40 yrs ago. Coincidentally an interested visitor this spring had asked me to do a pictorial on some of my layers. I have no experience with your zone but maybe this will give you some ideas...

I'm sitting on a bucket under the tree...

FB, here's a site with Juniperus air layering success using the same method as shown above by AC. So, it must work for junipers.

https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/air-layering-juniperus

Nice work, Al.

tj

Thanks guys, I knew I could count on this group! Bill, thanks for all your research on the matter, I guess this is something you've looked into with your many fun to follow propagation attempts. I'm decent good with cuttings, well other than roses, though have never attempted juniper. If I had more material I'd certainly give a try! Yes, Alley_cat, that's what I was thinking, I guess now my biggest concern is the length of growing season remaining with hard frosts beginning in late September and a dramatic drop off after mid October. I wouldn't want the thing to just begin to take root when sharp cold arrives, a rooted layer would not manage being exposed through a frigid Canadian prairie winter. Oh, and of course, I'd layer further down where the branch has more girth.

This very well could be nothing and not seeking debate, but growth had made a definite shift to all that had been immediately below, such was removed to focus plant energy upon it. I do have a pretty good eye for things a bit "off", lol. Years back, I spied what appeared to be a columnar branch sport upon one of my apple trees. Well, after grafting, the thing did not develop as expected, requiring staking and pruning to give way to an umbrella shaped canopy ideal for picking fruit, tree is not yet large, but a bit different and fits the spot where planted, has weak crotches though that require pruning.

The spray is not just flat, but also broader and particularly very rigid, no other single branch tip resembles this one.

"Normal" regular soft wispy growth.

VERY NICE al , This was done this spring ? When will you be checking on progress ? And do you add moisture along the way?

Ron

Hey Ron, I've already harvested it.....

I did a few this spring after leaves pushed...

Ron, I just read your last sentence.....

I dont add water

I dont add drain holes

and I don't peek

When I'm setting one up my sphagnum moss is sitting in a plastic paint bucket with more water than moss and give it a little squeeze like a sponge,before packing it around...good and wet but not drenched

Nice al, they sell pots for this . I tried on a maple years ago,,didn't work . They didn' seal up very well & you had to add water. I didn't like it very much.

Yeah Ron, that's why I use the saran wrap to keep the moisture in....

I've had good luck in the spring after 7/8 weeks believe it or not.

I follow with aluminum foil to keep things cool and reflect heat...also roots need to be in the dark.

The gelatin hormone is nicer to work with...I was out and had to use powder this year...

Thanks AC!

Your posts may just get me to try this. :-)