You completely saved my life with you electrical help. Thank you!

I decided to put the 2nd recessed light in the middle of the non-shower area (almost between the toilet and the vanity). Not to compete with the vanity light. a

For the wall mounted vanity light,

• What height do you suggest ?
• I will likely buy a recessed medicine cabinet that is 24 x 40 So, Do I mount the vanity light a few inches above the top of the mirror?

Vanity vs Pedestal is a good question and thanks for bringing it up.

• The wall with the vanity and toilet is only 60"

1. 20" for toilet
2. 24" for vanity or pedestal
3. 5 1/3 " for the 3 spaces (shower to vanity, vanity to toilet, toilet to wall)

I worry it will be too crowded with a vanity.

• You should allow a minimum of 15" from the center line of the toilet to any obstruction (so there should be at least 15" from the center line of the toilet and the wall and 15" from the centerline of the toilet to the vanity).
• At 24"-wide vanity makes sense. I like wall-hung vanities as they make the room look bigger. Decorplanet.com has some sets with sinks, faucets, and medicine cabinets. No vessel sink!
• I like this Fresca FVN6124RBL-UNS Lucera 24" Blue set
• If you get a pedestal sink, you have to carefully position the drain and water pipes. A vanity hides all that stuff.
• What's the Best Bathroom Vanity Height?
• Apparently vanity lights are typically 75-80" above the floor.
• The TOTO CST744S Drake toilet is a great standard-height toilet. Add a toilet seat. I despise those ADA aka "comfort-height" aka "right-height" toilets.

• Thank you again!

• Yes, I love the modern look and space saving of a wall hung vanity. Will ask my contractor if the exisitng metal studs are sufficient to support its weight. If not, I'm guessing some additional wood framing can be added before the drywall?
• That blue Fresca set is gorgeous.
• Have not decided on the vanity yet, but I am basing my wall light height of 78" on a 32-34" vanity height. So, both links you sent were very helpful.

Now, for what has been troubling me for the last many days.

• The HOA contractor and my tile guy now disagree on how to proceed with the 2/3 shower walls. The walls in question are the 2 white ones in the photo that have NOT been demoed.

1. HOA contractor says that the 2 walls are grandfathered in and stay. He told me that we are not authorized to demo the long 5' wall because it is a fire-rated, common wall That sounded amiss to me. What also seemed odd is that the long wall is partially demoed so how is that grandfathered in if it has been tampered with. He claims those 2 walls will smoothed out (with mud or something) and then Redgard placed on top. And, that this Red Gaurd is sufficient to waterproof the area.
2. Tile guy says demo the 2 walls and start from scratch with black paper, metal lath, concrete....
3. I would love to talk to the city inspector regarding this. My plan is to be present for the "Light Gage Steel Frame" inspection for my condo and then ask about the Interior/Exterior Lathing.
4. In the meantime, I'm confused. WDCCRUISE, I know this is a long shot, but you seem VERY knowledgable. Will the 1964 concrete (or like) material provide the strength to support tile? And, secondarily, will the Redgard sufficiently waterproof the shower? My condo is on the 11th floor and the last thing I need are leaks to the 10th or 9th. And no worries if this is way beyond your scope, I'll connect with the city of LA about this because it seems like a huge difference of opinion that will affect the next steps.
5. THANK YOU

I have metal studs. The contractor added blocking to support wall-mounted vanities.

I can't answer technical questions about the shower. My condo shower walls are cement board + Redgard + tile over a Kohler cast iron shower base. My shower walls were not next to another condo unit.

Thanks for the very helpful photo!

Also, thank you for sharing your order of operations before tiling: cement board + Redgard. For my previous shower (in another location) my tiler used a HardieBacker cement board.