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danielinthelionsden

Vegetable to cover crop transition challenges

7 months ago
last modified: 7 months ago

My soil is a silty clay loom. It's super vulnerable to compaction, erosion, and resists hydration changes (resists drying out in spring & resists absorbing watering during dry weather).

A few years ago I implemented cover crops on no-till/low-till as a way to fight against these challenges. I wouldn't say they were a miracle cure but they do help. The challenge I find is in the transition from cover crop to food crop in the spring and then back to cover crop again in the fall. I find that especially in the fall my food crop isn't really done before it's time to plant the cover. This has pushed me to use Cereal Rye since it can be planted so late, October for me in Zone 6a in central IN. But, then it's (rye) not ready to manually terminate in the spring till after the planting dates for many cold weather crops such as lettuces, chard, radish, mustard & collard greens, etc.

I've finally landed on a dual cover rotation where I plant oats & radishes after warm weather crops such as zucchini & cucumber and rye after some the crops that live a little longer like tomatoes, winter squash & sunflowers. Then, in spring cold weather crops can follow oats & radishes while warm weather crops can follow rye. This sort of works but I still find that if I want to get the cover planted in time to actually do any good. I'm still terminating my food crop before it's totally done and I'm still waiting later than I prefer to plant after the rye, even for warm weather crops.

Has anyone else faced this challenge with cover crops in the garden and found any better solution than this?

Comments (5)

  • 7 months ago

    I tried a cover crop for a few years back at my old homestead over 20 years ago and planted crimson clover to overwinter. It worked well to plant it in Nov and then mow it down and till it in by April. Our 1st frost date is around late Oct, last frost date by mid-April. I'd leave a few patches of the CC to bloom to attract pollinators later on. Your growing season is probably a bit shorter than mine but our winters can be brutal too.

  • 6 months ago

    I plant some tillage radishes in some of my plots as a cover crop. They winter kill and are not a problem for spring planting..


    For basic soil texure improvement, I added large amounts of peat moss from a local bog and sifted sand...super change after tilling in. Horse manure added even more benefit.

  • 6 months ago
    last modified: 6 months ago

    Austrian winter peas is my cover crop of choice. I try to plant it in places that I've already cleaned off for the fall. . Then I follow up later in the winter with cow manure. Then till it all in by around Feb to get ready for early spring planting of onions and potatoes.

    All that plus tending to a couple of low tunnels is my winter gardening.



    Austrian winter peas in the foreground , uncovered.( This was a couple of years back).

    The low tunnels have cold tolerant stuff , like brassicas , fall onions , greens like kale , collards , chard ,spinach , turnips.

    .I'm probably the only one in my locale that tries to do this sort of thing.

    Most people around here are ready to quit gardening after it gets too hot , like in Aug.

    Lonely are the brave.

    Okie HU

  • 6 months ago

    It sounds like you’ve put a lot of thought into your cover cropping strategy, and I appreciate your detailed explanation of the challenges you face! Transitioning between cover crops and food crops can indeed be tricky, especially with the timing involved.


    One approach you might consider is experimenting with different varieties of your food crops that mature more quickly. For instance, you could try growing faster-maturing varieties of lettuces or radishes, which might allow you to harvest before you need to plant your cover crops.


    Additionally, intercropping could be another strategy to explore; planting quick-growing cover crops, like clover or buckwheat, alongside your main crops may allow for a smoother transition and improve soil health without sacrificing harvests.


    You might also look into using no-till methods combined with shallow interseeding of cover crops. This can minimize disruption to your soil structure while still allowing you to get those cover crops established before the food crops are fully harvested.


    It’s great to see your commitment to improving your soil health! I’d love to hear how your dual cover rotation works out and if you find any other solutions that might work for your situation. Good luck!

  • 5 months ago

    Thanks all for the input. I'll have to post some pictures soon. This year is not looking very impressive. The fall was just cold enough to prevent irrigation but not wet enough to water the cover. None if it has done really well and the Oats & Radishes are already winter killing. oh well I'm sure they've already done some amount of good. I'll have to research the Austrian winter peas. It seems like I may have considered that at some point but I don't recall what my conclusions were.