Help with metal balusters on stairs

last year

last modified: last year

We recently had our wooden balusters replaced with metal balusters, but kept the original handrail.

To cover the holes left behind by the wooden balusters, we added caps to the tops and bottoms of the metal balusters.

The issue that we are encountering is that when we tighten the screw into the cap, it tilts and creates an unsightly gap. In other words, the angle of the cap is not parallel to the angle of the handrail.

We have tried closing the gap with clear silicone, but when it dried, it looked sloppy. We also tried inserting a tiny wood shim between the cap and the baluster. However, the wood was too soft and once the screw was tightened, the cap again shifted out of alignment.

Would it be preferable to apply wood filler to the bottom of the handrail, sand, stain, and inser the balusters directly into that? Any other suggestions? I would greatly appreciate any insights.

Featured Answer

dani_m08

last year

I know someone who had a similar issue. He used Bondo in order to make it look like the metal part of the caps met the handrail - and then painted it in order to have it match.

He spent quite a bit of time making sure that the caps looked like one piece. He has OCD - so, it needed to be perfect.

I would ask my contractor - this can't be the first time that this issue has happened. Many people have replaced their wood balusters with metal ones - and I don't ever remember someone having this type of issue -

OR maybe they did but it didn't bother them?

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Comments (14)

PRO
PPF.
last year
when we tighten the screw into the cap

Where is this screw? Picture?
PRO
Mark Bischak, Architect
last year
What did the person that preformed the baluster installation say?
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PRO
Mark Bischak, Architect
last year
Post a picture of the handrail system taken from more than six feet away.
Norah S.
Original Author
last year

Here are some better photos. please let me know if there’s any additional information that might be helpful!
chispa
last year
From the photo zoomed out, this wouldn't be an issue for most, specially if building a whole house where there would most likely be other more important issues to address.
PRO
HALLETT & Co.
last year
First you tried clear silicone, black would seem a more obvious solution so it would block the light and overall make the crack recede. If you want to get fussier, I would loosen the screw, then add some glue to the top of the escutcheon and slide it back up tight to the handrail. Use a couple wedges to keep it up. After that dries use black caulk where the escutcheon meets the wrought iron spindle. When that dries gently tighten the screw. First one will take you a half hour, once you get the right rhythm I think it will be a couple minutes per.
Norah S. thanked HALLETT & Co.
PRO
Mark Bischak, Architect
last year
last modified: last year

This bothers me more. Not just the trim overlapping of the open space but also the thinness between where the tread meets the riser and where the ceiling meets the wall.
PRO
HALLETT & Co.
last year
Ok mark if we are being picky why is the transition from vertical to angled curved (nice!) and the angled to horizontal is blunt?
chispa
last year
last modified: last year
@HALLETT & Co., good catch! Now that is all I can see when I look at the photo.
PRO
Mark Bischak, Architect
last year
I think the curve was a fished carpenter's creativity unleashed. That way if he is ever asked why he did it that way he can say, "To make little boys ask questions."
Kendrah
last year
It would bug the hell out of me if this were in my house but I wouldn't notice it in someone else's house.
Norah S.
Original Author
last year
Our contractor suggested using Bondo or some other matte black adhesive, so it sounds like we’re all on the same page that it’ll be our best bet.

As for the design quirks of the staircase itself, I suppose we will have to live with it :) :) Thanks for everyone’s impeccable attention to detail! you guys rock.
PRO
HALLETT & Co.
last year
Surely not bondo, it has the consistency of pancake batter and would be a nightmare here. Has its place but black latex caulk would be much more user friendly
Norah S. thanked HALLETT & Co.