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reduce width of sink base, DW and/or stove?

last year

Hello. I have a 1200 sq ft 2BR townhouse with small galley kitchen that I am gutting. It is used by 2-3 people M evg - F morning and rented out in the summer. We plan to sell it in 5-7 years.


From left to right along an exterior 139" wide wall I start with a 36" opening for a refrigerator as it hides my crawl space access panel - and no I can't move the fridge and create a new crawl space access. The opposing wall backs to another townhouse and will be used for storage, coffee pot and could be used for food prep.


Moving to the right I need to consider reducing 1-3 items to ensure sufficient countertop space next to range for cooking. My current plan - looking for your comments is: 36" Fridge > 18" drawer base > 30" sink base (centered on a window) > 18" DW (was 24") > 30" gas slidein (moved to this wall for proper exterior ventilation) > 6" base. In order to increase the width of the base cabinet furthest right, I could reduce the sink base to 27 or 24" and/or reduce the gas slidein to 24" wide.


I have already reduced to DW from 24 to 18". From here should I reduce the sink base or the range? Reduce the sink base from 30 to 24" or the range from 30 to 24"? Thank you

Comments (14)

  • PRO
    last year

    Draw it out.

  • last year

    We need pictures and a drawing with dimensions. Post them here in the comments.

  • PRO
    last year

    A to scale floor plan showing every window , doorways where thos elead every measurement clearly marked on graph paper to make it easy Post that here in jpeg format in a comment DO NOT start another post becuse right now Houzz is messing aboout with finding old posts. A couple of pics too are always a good idea. Also posted in a comment.

  • last year

    see attached jpg. I just need comments on what makes sense to reduce, the sink, DW or the range.


  • PRO
    last year

    You are forgetting a few dimensions. The ref doesn't use 36" it needs a little more. You will need a panel between the dishwasher and the stove to support the countertop and you will need a filler on the end between the last cabinet and the wall ( walls are never sq ) .

    The plan you posted above looks to have the stove on the opposite wall - why change it? You are killing the counter space.

  • last year

    Existing fridge probably is 30" wide and sits nicely in a 36" wide cavity and covers the 34.5" wide crawl space access - it stays. The existing gas stove has a recirculating microwave and its on an interior wall; lots of grease and fumes with no where to go but back in the room; I am moving it to the exterior wall where it should be and not interested in horizontal ductwork pushed by a 300/400 CFM micro. Thanks for catching the required suport panel.

  • last year

    I think you can reduce the sink base to 24 or 27. I have a 27" in sink (for me a big upgrade from a 23" former sink). Per Joseph Corlett you can strap a 27" sink into a 27" base cabinet so it doesn't mean going too small with the basin.

  • last year

    "I start with a 36" opening for a refrigerator as it hides my crawl space access panel"

    Is it at all possible that you could cut the access panel into two pieces, a removable portion that would sit behind the refrigerator and a fixed portion that would sit partially behind the adjacent base cabinet? My design book recommends that there be at least 15" of countertop on either side of a range or cooktop. You could do the following:


    Item Original/Recommended

    • Refrigerator: 36"/30"
    • Base cabinet with drawers: 18"/15"
    • Sink: 30"/24"
    • Dishwasher: 18"/18"
    • Range: 30"/30"
    • New base cabinet with drawers: none/15"
    • Totals: 132"/132"
  • last year

    crawl space access panel is in the floor not a wall; must have an approx. 36" width opening filled by something ideally on wheels such as a refrigerator; what I really would like to know is is better to accept a smaller sink base say 24" and a smaller DW at 18" in order to retain a 30" range?

  • last year
    last modified: last year

    According to this, this, and this, an interior floor crawl space entry must be a minimum of 18" x 24" so I'd reduce the size of the opening/panel to allow a 30" refrigerator and other suggested appliances and cabinets. I wouldn't install a 24" range (there are few and they say "cheap") or any range adjacent to a wall.

  • PRO
    last year
    last modified: last year

    A 25" single sink is very doable. So is a 30" fridge. Not so much either a 18" DW or 24" range. You pay a lot more for less with those. They are never a wise expense, unless the space is just way smaller than what you have. And you need an entrance to the crawlspace from somewhere other than a kitchen. A hallway is much better. A hatch is a weak point in the home's air sealing and insulation, as well as support for things on top of it. A fridge on top of it is just a bad idea all the way around.

  • last year

    There are actually some great 18" dishwashers out there--both Miele and Bosch make models with top silverware racks and when we looked at them some years back and tested them out, we found they held nearly as much as non-silverware rack 24" models. In a tight space I would happily reduce to 18" there. I personally wouldn't want to go below 30" for the range, though (in part because it really limits the models you have to choose from).

    If the crawl space access is in the floor vs. the wall, I would put the refrigerator on the opposite side of the galley and instead have cabinetry and a moveable worktable there on wheels that lock. Design it so that it matches and extends the counter surface and it will be infinitely easier to move than a refrigerator when you need to access that space. I would also flip the dishwasher to be on that side of the sink so that it's not in your prep space between the stove and sink.

    So basically: 36" wheeled work table with built-in uppers overhead (possibly with coffee prep area since it would be close to the sink?) - 1.5" post/filler to support counter - 18" d/w - 27" sink cabinet - 21" cabinet - 30" range - 3" spice pullout - filler at wall. (Or pull the range further off the wall, but have less space between the sink and range.) Then do a 30" refrigerator opposite the sink where the range currently is, which may be helpful anyway if you want the counter next to it to also serve as food prep. It doesn't give you a ton of prep space right next to the stove, but assuming the other side of the galley is close (I can't read the dimensions?) you would have a long stretch of prep space directly across the aisle.

    I would also talk to a contractor to be sure there are no other solutions for exterior venting for the range on the interior wall, too. I assume there is another story above this one given that it's a townhouse, so that's why you can't go up, but there may be other options that would allow you to keep the range on that side of the galley.

  • last year

    How about putting a base cabinet next to the work table to eliminate the need for a post to support the end of the countertop? You could then have counter space on both sides of the 30" range:

    • 36" wheeled work table (over crawl space panel)
    • 24" sink cabinet
    • 18" dishwasher*
    • 15" base cabinet*
    • 30" range
    • 15" base cabinet

    Total: 138"

    -----

    *You'd have 33" of countertop between the sink and the range


  • last year

    You could do that too, but it puts the sink off center to the window. Depends on how committed OP is to that. (I say that as someone who does indeed have just such a post to support the counter over our dishwasher because I was unwilling to have the sink off center on a similar cabinetry run! Although our resulting layout was less challenging—here, it might be worth reassessing how important centering the sink really is if having it off center yields a much better layout.)

    OP, is the entire yellow band the window? (Again--can't read the dimensions there.) If so, I would give some serious consideration to having the sink off center on the left side of the window given that it does give you much more workable space to the right and gets the range out of the corner. Remember that you'll also want to have a hood that is wider than the range itself, so the absolute closest to the corner it can go is 3" or so, and that will not be especially comfortable to work at.

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