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houtn0709

Erosion and Weed Control for Steep Slope

last year
last modified: last year

The steep slope behind our house needs to be refurbished. Currently it has creeping raspberry planted 10 years ago which had practically no weeds till a deep freeze 2 years ago. Since then the raspberry thinned out, weeds appeared, and the slope steadily eroded. The raspberry spreads if not controlled and had to be cut back a couple of times each year.


We plan to remove the raspberry, bring in topsoil and plant a different ground cover, probably veronica which is doing well elsewhere in our yard.


Need advice on how to proceed with this project to limit erosion and weeds till the new ground cover fills in. I’ve seen references to coir or jute netting as a way to limit erosion but does it work only for seeding? Will ground cover spread if seedlings are planted?


Is there another fabric or technique that would work better? Please explain the process, ie, topsoil— then netting —then what thickness of mulch?


Any ideas appreciated. We’re in Tennessee.




Comments (13)

  • last year

    The simple approach is A. Fill in/level hillside with native soil B Cover hillside with jute net, broadcast light application of complete fertilizer then add 1-2 inch 50-50 mix topsoil-compost. C. Plant your choice of perennial groundcover transplants. D. Sow annual(s) and water in.

    The combination of Raspberry roots, net and annuals will control erosion until perennial transplants establish roots. Existing Raspberry will grow back to supplement new perennial plants as permanent solution to erosion.


    If you want hillside manicured, buy or borrow landscape books.

  • last year

    Seriously doubt that Veronica will be successful containing erosion on that slope. It's an herbaceous perennial that dies back in winter. Ornamental grasses likely to be better.

    houtn0709 thanked laceyvail 6A, WV
  • last year

    Laceyvail, thank you. Do you have any suggestions for ornamental grasses that are short, ie less than a foot, and don't require cutback, deadheading, etc.

  • last year

    IME as a professional gardener and landscape designer for several decades, creeping raspberry, Rubus calycinoides, is the best choice of groundcover for weed control, even better than ivy! It layers well to provide a dense carpet, is evergreen and is an excellent choice for slope stabilization. Veronica or other herbaceous GC's are not a good choice.

    Removal of what is already present will only serve to destabilize the slope further. If sufficiently hardy for your area, simply replant with more raspberry. No need for any added topsoil or netting - the expansion of the creeping raspberry roots will rapidly achieve all the erosion control/slope stabilization necessary as well as quickly providing considerable (if not total) weed suppression.

    Ornamental grasses will not/cannot provide the same effect.


  • last year

    Thanks gardengal48. We're in zone 7 which is marginal for creeping raspberry. It did prevent weeds well until it thinned out substantially due to low temps. Any other ideas for carpet like groundcover?

  • last year

    Another suggestion would be Vinca Minor, it will fill in fast and add a splash of blue in the spring.

  • last year

    Vinca is not nearly as effective against weeds as is the raspberry. And it is not very happy in much sun either. This is a plant that prefers at least partial shade. It is also a listed invasive in many areas of the country.

  • last year

    To help control erosion, you need to plant plants with deep roots. Have you considered shrubs? They are low maintenance if you choose well. Natives are also a good choice for shrubs, which you can mix with perennials if you like. A variety offers a more interesting space.

  • last year

    Plants with shallow but wide spreading root systems are also great choices for erosion control/slope stabilization. As long as they are evergreen :)) Plus the mat-like growth habit of most of these - especially the raspberry - reduce the rainfall or irrigation water that hits bare soil, further limiting erosion.

  • last year

    You could still, if you have some specific “ plant wantsies “, embellish with a focal point shrub or grass or patch of suitable perennial, add some boulder- pocket- planting niches, tuck in spring bulbs( in fall), but I would just not do the scorched- earth start- over. You can do spot weed-control, and/ or Pre-emergent ( unless have areas you are overseeding), because you would certainly have to do a LOT of weeding/ weed control with a whole new planting.

  • last year
    last modified: last year

    Thanks to all of you for your comments. We're rethinking how we could leave the raspberry as suggested.

    To my knowledge no nursery here sells creeping raspberry. It’s viewed as not hardy enough for this zone. Possibly go south to a nursery in GA or buy from an online retailer. Any insight on ordering from rareroots.com or any other retailer?

    Vinca was suggested . .. it's considered invasive by our HOA.

  • last year

    I tried the Rubus at my old garden some years ago. It simply isn't suited to areas that may have a hard winter. The die back is extensive and it takes until nearly midsummer to begin to regrow and years to refill.

    The ornamental grasses I suggested will of course have to be cut back, whichever ones you choose. From your picture, I would use Geranium Karmina or Biokovo in some of the flatter areas, Panicums (native prairie grasses excellent for erosion conrol) for the upper steep areas with some coming down the slope, and towards the bottom Pennisetums. Pennisetums can seed about prolifically but there are several new seedless varieties.

    It will take some work to get the Rubus root systems out.