Not commenting as a professional and no advice, but with the placement of the curb it looks tight.

Who drew up plans? What does the contract say? Where were you during construction if you were in the roll of designer? Be aware that removing any tile turns the shower into a full gut because the waterproofing has to be continuous.

The wall tile looks odd with 8" +/- past the curb which makes it even more obvious that something was off. I would not be happy. If the contract is done properly make him do what he was contracted to do. However keep in mind this will cost you time and money. Only you can decide if this is the hill to die on but I would put up a hell of a fight were I int he right. But you as the designer needed to be more involved and present as the shower did not get this far overnight.

You have all that space, so it doesn't make sense that he cut it short. What a waste of time, materials and money.

I am going to take a guess that there are other issues with his work? What waterproofing did he use for the shower walls and floor? Show in progress photos.

I think it's way late in the game here to be questioning this.

How is it that you both got to this point - with you wanting one thing, and the contractor thinking you wanted something else?

Let me guess, this was all verbal and there are no drawings and there is no scope of work describing anything. What's more, there was no checking up on the work to make sure everything was going as intended before it's 90% complete.

There should be a drawing. There should be a scope of work that would mention "Move supply and drain plumbing to match new ceterline" or some such. That isn't a minor detail. Neither is moving the light fixtures to the new centerline.

You should have been very comfortable that the contractor was understanding what needed to be done, and you should have monitored the progress, particularly in the early stages.

The way this kind of miscommunication typically happens is when the homeowner is acting as GC but doesn't know what they are doing. And then when things go wrong - they are no longer the GC but a novice homeowner, "and the contractor should have known better".

And in fact, the contractor should have known better - than to get involved in this job without drawings, scope of work and a clear understanding of roles, in writing.

You aren't going to make that tile layout make sense - both with the overlap and the seam that's off-center.

I think, its awfully narrow shower like it is. It would have been better if the curbing would have been out a bit, and the shower at least as wide as to where curbing would begin.

Do you have a written contract? If not, how did you and the contractor discuss/agree to the terms/scope of work (for example, was the size of the shower agreed to through an exchange of texts and/or emails? Texts and/or emails can be the basis for a written contract.

Depending upon where you reside, your state will have a statute that covers renovations/services for residential properties. Some states REQUIRE a written contract - and place the responsibility on the contractor to make sure that there is a contract (and if there isn't one, the contractor cannot sue the homeowner if he/she/they fail to pay).

If there was an agreement for the shower to be 4' x 5' - then what your contractor has constructed does not meet that specification. Obviously, when a shower is changed from 30" x 30" to 48" x 60" - the drain will need to be moved as part of the scope of work.

Unfortunately, dimensions are not written on the contract. We had meetings in person several times and I requested minimum 4ft x 5ft. There must’ve been a mis-communication or no communication on shower size between my contractor and the on-site manager. Plus, on site manager was on vacation during the whole tile work (4 days). I did go check the house but tile guys were cutting and installing the tiles so I just saw them working from the master bedroom. I think I should’ve gone inside and check. Now the contractor agreed on redoing the shower but I need to pay for tiles again and it might delay the schedule.

You need a drawing - it doesn't have to be super sophisticated... just very clear on the dimensions, the location of any features such as the valve, the shower arm and the hand held outlet. Also the lighting, the layout of the tile, etc.

A drawing makes it very clear what you want in a way that words alone don't.

Also, you check in on framing /plumbing rough-in. If things aren't in the right place you stop work. You also check in before any tile goes on to approve waterproofing.

Don't assume everything was clearly communicated.

I’m glad I don’t do work like that

I think, I would pay for the tiles again and let him do it right. If you dont, you will be unhappy every time you get in that narrow shower, and probably bump your elbows on both sides while washing hair, etc.

I'd remove the long curb, rebuild it at 48", cover it and the existing floor tile with Schluter Kerdi and tile over all of it. Much less work, risk, and expense. Pay for the changes; you never want subs losing money working on your job.

The contractor demolished the shower partially and left the tiles with niche. Is this gonna potentially cause the leak? At first, he said he would remove tiles from the whole area.

No not acceptable. There is no way to properly create a fully continuous waterproof system. As it is I only see a tiny bit of orange schluter fabric showing- it’s almost like he only waterproofed the niche.

It would have been wise to post the whole room photos from the start. It seems your wall tile extends past the shower on the left so the easiest solution (not necessarily best - just easiest) would have been to continue the tile on the right wall all the way to the door. And yes the whole wall should be redone like Hallett said. Fixing this first mistake may be a blessing in disguise so you can make sure this shower is waterproofed correctly.

That shower pan is quite concerning in my mind as I see zero remnants of any sort of waterproofing and the first pics obviously how tile on the floor. And no leaving that is not good and as Hallett states with that remaining there is no way to get a continuous waterproofed system, Are you sure this guy is qualified for this work? I may be inclined to cut bait with this guy before he goes any further.

Agree with @millworkman and @HALLETT & Co..

It all has to come out - there's no way to get a continuous membrane to make a waterproof system without pulling it all out.

I also agree that the floor to wall connection is concerning - I don't see how that was done properly previously. You need someone who knows what they are doing, and I suspect that's not what you have.

The demo of the hot mess express is far from done. And once done, the contractor should get the boot. And you should hire someone else. Nothing done there gives any confidence that industry correct work happened.

The contractor ended up remove the whole tiles in shower area and rebuilt the shower. It looks a lot better than before.

But.. we faced another problem. Their plumber finished the rough work for kids vanity and it sits right behind the drawers. In order to use the drawers, vanity needs to be placed far away from the wall. The contractor is refusing to redo the rough work. And he is now telling me to bring other plumber to meet the deadline or modify the drawers. He says he wouldn’t be able to give us any credit for bringing another plumber. What will be the best solution for this issue? Should I just leave the vanity away from the wall? I’m afraid that my toddlers drop everything to the floor.
By the way, the sheetrock was installed yesterday. I didn’t even imagine that they would block that area without considering moving the pipe.

Again,who is the general contractor?

Also again, this is supposed to be drawn out so that nobody's guessing where the rough plumbing is supposed to go.

It's also why you select things like the vanity ahead of time.

Nobody should be waiting until the drywall is up to be double checking placement of the rough-in.

I really don't understand why you think that plumbers - or any contractor - has telepathy. They don't.

Again, the centerline of the old sink is obvious from the placement of the light fixture and the old plumbing. None of that was moved at rough-in, you had plenty of warning. Then you waltz in with a vanity that has a different centerline. That's not the plumber's fault - it's the GC's fault (YOU!). I think the plumber was pretty restrained in just telling you "no" and not also telling you where you could put that vanity - particularly after the shower incident.

The curb is still going to leak, and the waterproofing layer is so thin it’s practically invisible. And yes you are going to have to get a plumber in to move the rough plumbing. Ever heard the expression ‘ you buy cheap, you buy twice’? You are in that stage.

I didn’t think people still used cement board in showers. You need a new contractor.

I agree with @HALLETT & Co.

The waterproofing on the walls is very thin.

I also have my concerns about the workmanship on the floor / curb / wall connection. I would have needed to watch the drain pan being built to be sure though. There should have been a pre-slope, a rubber membrane and top coat. The membrane should go up the wall behind the backer board with no fasteners penetrating the membrane within 8" of the floor.

Alternately, the floor could have been done with something like a Kerdi system. But again it would have had to been integrated into the wall and curb to give a solid waterproof membrane and I'm not seeing any sign of that.

Lastly, where is the toilet going to be located? If it's to the left of the vanity, does it have the code required clearance between the wall and the vanity?

" I didn’t think people still used cement board in showers "

Absolutely nothing wrong with cement board in a shower when dealt with properly.

" It looks a lot better than before. "

Still no wall and floor waterproofing tie in.

Curb still not wrapped and integrated into the pan waterproofing (12" up the walls and the entire curb needed to be done BEFORE tiling and flood tested preferable).

The Aquaguard Waterproofing is way to thin and basically useless, he needed to use a mil gauge.

Still going to end up with water issues and eventually rot and mold.