You can buy the ones that look just like your link to ebay, right at Lowes. Maybe just take your hinge to Lowes or Home depot and look for a exact size replacement. Yours looks like it could be brass too, so I wouldnt want to put chrome on it.

I'd super glue and baking soda the old one.

Thanks so much for your suggestions, cat_ky & Joseph! The super glue idea does intrigue me.

Some questions:

(1) Would a nail file work to sand the broken edges?

(2) What are the options for working surfaces, so that it shouldn't get bonded to the working surface?

(3) Would you initially:

apply the glue above+below?

....or rather where the jagged parts "hug" each other?

For example, i see varying strategies, per below demo's:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eub3GnzkIZA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=naKFktdJPAA

Update:
I tried following this example: https://michael.team/soda/
(see my below attachments)

But after screwing the two screws which face the room, and as i was jiggling the hinge in the attempt to position it, it broke apart despite having done approx 2 layers of soda+glue on one side and 3 layers of the combo on the other side.

I think it broke because it has become sorta a concave shape, with the crack at epicenter of the "inner-alcove".

So i then filed everything away, washed it with hot soap, filed again, and proceeded again, this time with an even thicker layer on one side. I then waited awhile, then sanded the hardened-white stuff a bit. Then screwed in the five screws, with a folded pillow stuffed between the floor and the base of cabinet door to provide support just in case the glue isn't totally dry internally. I guess i'll see tomorrow if it breaks apart again.

You can try the super glue, but, in my experience, it is a waste of time. LOL

Just curious, cat_ky, what have you tried repairing with the glue/soda combo, and why was it a waste of time?

Go to Vandykes.com. They specialize in old fashioned hardware. There’s a whole bunch of brass hinges there. (If you have an old house, you’ll want to get their catalog! 😍)

My great grandson came with some metal thing (no idea what it is), that he tried to do that with. It was well cleaned too. It lasted about 15 minutes, after he had repaired it, and it dried overnight. Just seems like the glue doesnt really hold up after it gets a bit of use.

Take the hinge to a real hardware store. They should be able to match it up in Amerock or similar with no issues. I see nothing indication anything special on the hinge.

Is this it https://www.rockler.com/3-8-inset-free-swinging-face-mount-cabinet-hinges-satin-nickel ?

I've used the baking soda and superglue trick before. Building miniatures, heh. Hadn't thought about it for something like this. It's a catalization. It can cure much faster and have a potentally stronger bond. And also, it can be easy to do too much baking soda and get a more brittle bond too. When trying to bind two parts side by side, it's often better to add in a supportive mesh layer. Like how cement can get a supportive mesh of rebar in it, or mesh tape on drywall before mudding.

In miniatures... More of weight in grams than in pounds like a cabinet hinge. I've done superglue dripped into the baking soda. It catalizes too fast for swirling around. I use various things for meshes, kind of depends on the project. A stable mesh, not an unstable cloth mesh.

But if I used stuff I tend to keep around in the craft room or work bench on a project like reparing that hinge, maybe a bit of crafters brass mesh, or maybe metal window screen mesh tapped flat. And I would likely skip the superglue honestly. I also keep jewelers epoxy on hand. Two part epoxy, just prettier than the grey stuff. I would probably use brass tone. But if I lacked that, I would use good ole two part ugly epoxy. And probably hit it with some brass tone after if I thought it needed the pretty.

Also honestly. I'd likely take one of the unbroken hinges around to the hardware stores to see if I could get a new hinge. Leave the repair for if I can't find a replacement.

Thanks for the feedback, beesneeds. With the gel i was enabled to swirl it around. I didn't have the liquid version in the house. I certainly don't have professional stuff such as crafters mesh. I might have some window screen laying around. What i do have, is a white-nylon version of "window-screen" on a bolt which my dad used to use as "substitute" screening for outer "storm-door" in basement which was subsequently removed, as its protected anyway by adjacent carport overhang. (or mezannine, whatchamacallit).

He used to work in upholstery, and i think that's where he got that bolt of nylon screening at one time in past years.

The thing is, the nylon screening is somewhat stiff. In other words, you can sorta bend it similar to the way you can bend window-screening.

I do have Weldwood contact cement in the house. Would you have used that? (Yes, I know that you and cat_ky would buy a replacement, but barring that, would you choose contact cement vs superglue?

Bond a piece of metal to the back and re-drill the holes through the patch.

I would not use plastic, and nylon is particularly reluctant for bonding. Crafters brass mesh or metal window screening are metal, better in bonding. I don't tend to use contact cement much in miniatures, but I would for sure not use it in an application where there isn't contacting happening. It's more for gluing two solid(ish) things together than for layering in an open mend.

I see, thanks again! Since you seem to have experience with glues, do you know whether Klean Strip is safe for removing shiny dried glue from rubber-outsole & Eva-midsole of boots, prior to applying Weldwood? (I ran them in my dryer too long as they got wet inside from slush.)

Here's my attached pic:

I don't know which Klean Strip you are thinking of, that company makes a lot of products. But in the past for sole repair or replacement.. I tend to clean/scrape off old glue if necessary. Rough up the joining surfaces if necessary. Cleaning well with rubbing alcohol. I've got denatured, but I've found just regular rubbing usually works well. I've had marine bond/barge cement in the past, that stuff was great- but I don't really use it much, so I tend not to keep it around anymore. Otherwise I've used a shoe bond, like ShoeGoo. Clamp well till fully cured.

A thing to note... dont' put your boots in the dryer ever again. The heat can mess with your new glue like it did the old glue. Invest in a boot warmer/dryer instead- it can dry your boots at a gentle heat from the inside and not potentially damage sole glue.

Note: Because houzz lacks "shift-enter" therefore the below is awkward. I was trying to explain things step by step, but the lack of shift-enter makes it weird. XenForo forums are much more intuitive in that respect.

Thanks again! Re: Epoxies, at HomeDepot where you get free shipping, the E6000 jewelry epoxy only comes by the case. Also thanks for the idea about boot dryers, but it was hard to decide which to buy after much research. The Peet is on the high end, and some others seemed like they might suffice. Hey, maybe i can even hack my Nesco dehydrator bought many years ago...

BTW it may interest that you can "hack" a Jumbo Binder Clip along with a wire hanger to hang each pair of boots you have on a closet rod.

To answer your Q: I found around the house 32 oz. Klean Strip odorless surface-prep mineral spirits. There's a bit left in the bottle. (It used to come in a translucent bottle - its that which i found)

Is that safe for Eva foam? Does anyone here know?

Meanwhile my 2nd round of SuperTite-Gel broke apart too. Maybe i poured on too much baking-soda. So I think i'll borrow a hinge from an upper wall cabinet for the problem-cabinet.

And Hypothetically (to attach to the wall cabinet) i can then:

Possibly try the liquid-version Loctite (which i bought to replace SuperTite).

I can cut-to-size a piece from spare metal-screening which i found in house.

Then glue the screening to 1950s hinge to sandwich between hinge and door.

I also found a butt hinge in house (see my below attachment)

I can glue it to the other side (which would face items stored in cabinet).

Unfortunately i don't have extensive drill bits, especially for metal, and its hard to drill!

I also don't have metal strips in that small size either.

I do have aluminum cut from disposable foil-pan. Would that work?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Laurey-Inset-Polished-Chrome-3-8-in-Self-Closing-Hinge-1-Pair-28626/306716879

Wow, Seabornman thanks so much for your research toward various hinges! The advantage of the Laurey hinge, is that it comes in brass which is a better match for my hinges.

Now i'm wondering about the structural-design durability of the Laurey compared to the Liberty https://www.homedepot.com/p/Liberty-1-Pair-Face-Frame-3-8-in-Inset-Self-Closing-Satin-Nickel-Cabinet-Hinge-2-Pieces-H0104AC-SN-O3/204151958

Can you, or any expert here, tell by the photo's which might be more durable? Because that's more important than a few dollars, or whether nickel doesn't match brass. In any case new brass wouldn't totally match my 1950s brass ones.

P.S. Seems that both cat_ky and Joseph Corlett both make sense, with cat's offering the path of "least resistance". So now its a toss-up between the Liberty and Laurey. BTW, I had attached my butt-hinge photo that somewhat jived with Joseph's idea, but then when i logged in today, it had disappeared from this thread. That's weird, so I re-uploaded it, and see if it happens again.

Updated question: Is there a simple Mending Plate with 2 holes which are spaced 0.7" apart? (so that i can super-glue it as brace for broken hinge)... Unfortunately my local hardware store which stocks Ace type products had Amerock hinges, all of which were not compatible w/my broken hinge. For example, from the bend till the hole was approx. .35 inch, whereas mine is approx. 0.5 inch.

Referring to my attached pic, you'll see that on my 1950s hinge, "A" is approx. 1/2inch, whereas Amerock, vintage-Stanley, and others are maybe at most .35-inch. So therein is my problem. Because there's not-so-vintage 1970s hinges, and then unfortunately there's hard-to-find ultra-vintage 1950s hinges (mine).