Does the liner go up behind the Go Board (it should be)? The liner should be over the curb, not beneath it. Is the pan pitched properly and been flood tested? The simple detail on the curb and pan liner makes me question everything he has done.....................

I'm not seeing the same thing as @millworkman.

Yes, the liner has to go up behind the Go Board and there should not be penetrations in the liner - that looks like it was done properly but we can't see for sure.

The curb looks like a system I haven't seen before, but appears that the liner goes over a curb and then an outside form fits over it. It looks like it has the potential to solve problems such as not using wood for the curb and not penetrating the liner with fasteners at the curb. I'd like to know what that system is. I don't know what's under that form - but it would be great if none of it was wood. I have a little bit of concern about the curb height, particularly the height that would be waterproof (I'm assuming top of the liner, not top of the form) but it may be that I'm just not familiar with this system.

We can't tell how the pre-slope was done. That liner should not be level, there should be a base layer under the liner that slopes it to the drain. Put some water on the pan at the back and see if it goes towards the drain. If the liner is level, you have a problem.

Hopefully the Go Board was sealed at the seams as it went in, although I'm not seeing any evidence of that. Likewise it needs the screws skimmed with Go Board sealant also. Go Board is strongest and most waterproof when you apply the sealant to seam edges as you put it up - so the sealant is the full depth of the seam. If you apply it after the panels are in place, you must leave a sufficient gap between panels to get the sealer into the seam. The photos aren't really clear, but those look pretty tight.

Nothing is jumping out at me at as being "clearly wrong" here but check the pre-slope for sure. Also check the Go Board seams and then ask what the plan was with them.

Here's the thing: If there's no sealant on the seams and/or no pre-slope under the liner, or if the curb isn't right, then it's not a big deal at this point to take it out and start over. It's not that far along. Very soon it will be a much bigger deal.

I think what he is doing is making a form from the GoBoard to pack in mortar over the curb, seeing how the liner is dead on to the laser line, he might be packing on top to get his slope instead of preslope.

Hello, under the liner was mud, and it was presloped. After the liner, I see mud/cement before tile. All seams are packed with sealant. The liner goes up and behind the go board. This looks good to everyone?

More photos of progress

Nothing jumping out as problematic then.

GoBoard doesn't need waterproofing, but the mortar over the joints does.

@Joseph Corlett, LLC

If they used the Go Board adhesive over the joints like they should, it's good to go. It's not thinset.

"The GoBoard Installation Instructions / Technical Data Sheet approves two material

types for joints and fastener locations sealing to achieve a waterproof tile installation:

polymer sealant/caulk (in tube); and 2" wide polymer-coated alkali-resistant fiber glass

mesh tape and mortar coated with a liquid waterproofing membrane."

Jake:

I'm not seeing "and/or"; I'm only seeing "and".

@Joseph Corlett, LLC

I've installed Go Board, and all of the manufacturer's instructions at the time (few months ago) were the sealant only. If bedding the fiberglass tape (optional) you were to use the sealant. Also to use the sealant to top the fasteners.

There has been a YouTube tile installer who has made a video showing that tile doesn't really adhere to the sealant well. It's primarily an issue with smaller format tile and large expanses of sealant (such as a fat seam). For example, If you have a 4" tile and a 6" seam of adhesive, that tile isn't going to stick well.

If you apply the sealant to the full edge of the board as you place the boards - instead of trying to do it after - you get a strong joint and the most waterproof. It also allows you to keep the sealant where you smooth out the excess at the joint much more narrow and tape wasn't required.

Again as of a couple of months ago, the tape was optional and was bedded with sealant. I haven't looked at the instructions lately. Since tile doesn't stick well to the sealant, if you are going to use tape and end up with a fat seam, particularly if you are putting up smaller format tile, thinset might be a better choice. But If you use the sealant on the edge of the seam as you put the boards up, the seam is fully waterproof.

JohnsManville GoBoard instructions allow for GoBoard Pro Sealant in required 1/8" gaps, spread out 1" with a putty knife on either side of seams. Same cover for fasteners. That's it, you can read for yourself <here>. No taping, thinset, or mortar like a CBU. Proprietary alternative material installation should follow manufacturer instructions explicitly to a tee.

The confusion with the other quote is mixed up with non-waterproof locations or not on walls. So, if you instead use these retail-oriented instructions, linked <here>, it specifically states for walls in the title "Use GoBoard Pro Sealant if waterproofing is required," then it has a section following for bathtubs and shower walls detailing the Pro Sealant.

So in OP's case not sure if GoBoard is installed correctly. Can't tell if fasteners are drywall screws, because spacing is determined by screw type, they do seem too close to edge, I can't tell if there were 1/8" gaps, and whether the white is the GoBoard Pro Sealant or thinset, and I am still curious as to what purpose the curb has going over the liner.

Edit: fixed links

@3onthetree

The instructions you linked to show a few alternatives:

1. to use "GoBoard Seam Fabric" or not

2. To install with 1/8" gaps and fill with sealant later

3. To put sealant on board edge as they go up

Between 2 and 3, I think that sealing the edges as they go up insures the best coverage of sealant.

Which was pretty much what I said.

And you are correct, they don't mention thinset on the seam.

I think where people are getting in trouble with tile adhesion is when the "1 inch on either side of the joint" becomes much more than that.

As for the OP's install, I think the panels were installed without sealant, but they looked like they were spaced too tightly - I just can't tell from the photo.

I also saw where some fasteners were close to the edge.

That said, I think those are minor issues and it will be fine as long as that's sealant and not thinset.

Yes, GoBoard Seam Fabric is allowed to be put over the sealant, but not embedded. I was responding to the "alkali" comment which I took as referring to CBU mesh tape (even though GoBoard Seam Fabric is alkali resistant it's not a product differentiation like when choosing CBU mesh tape) which gets embedded There was no issues with anything you said, as per usual.

I would agree as well that as long as this OP's install was with Pro Sealant, it should be a fine install.