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oldmoses

Rifis, in a nutshell...

last month
last modified: last month

Rifis,

In a nutshell, I don't have a special spraying program, just about what the instructions on the bottle say to do is what I do.

I try to maintain an every two week schedule, and generally would give myself a grade of an A- in being successful.

Both the Bayer Complete Insect Killer and a fungicide, either the Spectricide Immunox or the Bayer Fungicide for Roses, flowers, and Shrubs, are combined in one spray, insecticide and fungicide together with no conflicting interactions between them. I still spray for fungus because of some much loved, workhorse HT bloomers I have kept after the overhaul of my bed to fungus resistant/highly resistant roses. By far the worst of the fungi is black spot, for which I have very little tolerance.

The insecticide is added because of: aphids, cabbage butterfly caterpillars, rose slug, and of course, Rose Midge Fly. I am not bothered by Japanese Beetles to any great degree. Less than 5 beetles total can be counted all beetle season long. Of this I am very grateful....the advantage of living in a very old, Italian neighborhood with postage stamp gardens and abbreviated to absent grass lawns, which Japanese beetles favor for proliferating.

My three year old Scott's Lithium Battery Sprayer has, in spite of this Scott's sprayer's many design faults (they can be worked around and lived with), makes spraying far less arduous.

The seemingly never-ending battle with the Rose Midge Fly has come to a surprising, but much appreciated stop in 2025. I have not had one damaged growing tip this 2025 season, not one. The midge had hopefully died out over 2024/25 winter season. It's hard to believe, knowing how chronically persistent they have been for as long as I can remember. I don't believe my insecticide inclusion in my spray mix is responsible, because every single year as far back as I can remember, faithful midge spraying was only 90% effective. Damaged tips after every spray still were found then. Divine intervention deserves the credit. I am so very grateful. There's nothing more gratifying than seeing every rose growth made on a bush that wants to bloom, finish in a bloom.

When a bottle of a fungicide runs out, either the Bayer or Spectracide product, whichever is being used at the time, I switch to the other until the bottle of that one runs out. This cycle continues ad infinitum. That way I always am using fresh product, and also hopefully throw the fungi off their assumed resistance development.

Immunox has a nasty smell, but it seems only 2 days long on the sprayed roses, then it's gone. Bayer appears to be very low odor, if at all. This is all by my old disfunctioning nose.

Spraying starts in spring when new growth is up about 2 inches. It continues until October. I am done spraying for the year at this time.

Hope this helps you, Rifis.

Moses.

Comments (2)

  • last month

    Thank you!


    I’m glad this was posted successfully w/o needing to resort to Swedish.

    Here’s my take (as Fareed would say):


    Waiting till a full bottle of one fungicide is empty before switching to the second fungicide would seem to undo any plan to ”rotate fungicides” (thus allowing ample opportunity for emergence of resistance) unless each bottle lasted only 1 or 2 applications. On top of that, tebuconazole amd mycobutanil belong to the same ”mode of action group”; thus, does this even qualify as ”fungicide rotation”?


    Having said that: what you’ve been doing works. I’m not going to argue with success.


    The biggest takeaway: Your midge experience this year is extraordinary.


    Were you super extra diligent in 2024?


    I remember a few years ago, you described your midge spraying regimen, and when your battle began, and one member here (who presumably had no experience w/midge) was astounded that the problem wasn’t cured long ago.


    Congratulations!

  • last month
    last modified: last month

    At 2 tbl./gallon of water, and 2 gallons (4 tbls. Immunox), of spray solution in the sprayer, to completely spray the whole rose bed adequately, a 16 oz. bottle of Immunox (the largest/only size it comes in), I get 8 sprays. At two sprays a month, that's 4 months of spraying with Immunox. 6 1/2 months of spray a year, from spring to fall, means there is one, sometimes two, inter-season fungicide witch(es) some years.

    The Bayer fungicide only comes in a 32 oz. bottle (sometimes additional bonus ounce bottles are available at the same price), so 16 sprays, or 8 months of spraying come from the same bottle.

    No matter where I leave off at the season's end of spraying, I mostly start next year with the same bottle, but am forced to switch at some time during the season. I like the unpredictability of the change. I think that frequent, steady switches give the fungus more of a chance to adapt to the steady, regular change and possibly more quickly develop a resistance to both the Bayer and Immunox fungicide at the same time.

    I may look into other fungicides to see if other means of cure/prevention are more effective, but for the most part I have been very successful with the current program. I believe it is the consistently administered fungicide spray, with all above ground rose bush parts covered as best as possible with the spray solution, that keeps my roses undamaged. The ball gets dropped when I take liberties.

    Going by the intense, many, many years long, Rose Midge Fly battle waged around me by far better, more knowledgeable rose gardeners than me, and the unfortunately predictable midge reemergence they experience each new growing season, I have never presumed to question why they have not yet conquered their infestations. Rose Midge Fly is the primary bane of local rose gardeners.

    Moses.

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