an interesting dilemma, for sure.

If replacing the stove isn't an option, I'd live with it until I could replace the stove, countertop, and remove the overhead 'mess' all together.

Thanks! Replacing the stove is potentially an option we'd consider (it's not young either). As you say, it would be remodeling the countertop, and also a shelf that runs above the windows along the countertop, which would likely turn into replacing the windows (which are very much not new), and then redoing the tile wall behind the counter, etc, etc... it quickly slides down the slope into a half-kitchen remodel.

We've gone back and forth regarding replacing the stove simultaneously. I had concluded that replacing it right now doesn't really matter; when the stove's time comes we could just slide a new one in the same spot.

But maybe I have that wrong. Are there compelling reasons regarding getting the hood right to consider replacing the stove now?

look into a down draft stove, you may be able to just replace what you have and be done.

Yes, expensive $3,000+ But if the venting is an issue and you a ready to replace, it would be the best option.

WHEN you change things up, with a downdraft stove in that location, you wouldn't need a rise on that backside of the countertop. It would allow light from the kitchen into that space.

Little changes can mean a lot.

google down draft stoves and see what you come up with.

Have you looked at replacements that will fit in the space that have a higher CFM? There are likely newer ones that pull a higher volume that might work..

Thanks, Lyn. I had thought about a downdraft stove, but I saw a lot of comments / reviews that suggested they don't work very well. Have you had good experiences with them?

Thanks @olychick; the one we have does 600 CFM. We could go even higher, though that's the max that our ductwork supports. Going higher than that would involve tearing out the duct and the construction around it. Of course, everything is doable. But I appreciate the suggestion: maybe we could figure something out there.

How wide is the opening or the hood insert itself? Can you post pictures from the kitchen and living room showing the hood enclosure all the way to the ceiling?

The big issue is that the range is not in the ideal place and if you lower that hood it will be in your face all the time I have had 2 vent-a hoods- in two different homes they both were installed pretty close to the height you have the one agoibnst the wall just worked better both the same CFM . Sometimes you need more CFM than a clser hood . Island hoods are always less efficent because they have air all around them to deal with I do not like insert hoods a nice stainless island hood just a nicer look IMO

@wdccruise: thanks! The current hood is approximately 17" deep. We could accommodate a deeper hood in the current enclosure though; I measured the bottom, and accounting for the lip/shelf in front, we could probably get something as deep as 22-23" inches in there if we really pushed it.

Here are two more pictures showing the enclosure all the way to the ceiling.

@Patricia Colwell Consulting: thanks for the input. As with other responses, you've got me wondering if we should just replace the insert as is, understanding that with that opening to the back we're just not going to get perfection. Maybe we can get something a little wider. I don't think we're going to pull off more CFM than we have without replacing the duct, which would involve tearing into the wall and enclosure.

Whether a hood or insert aperture is too high depends on its size and the airflow going into it. Larger hoods (for a given cooktop size) will allow higher mounting for the same plume capture efficiency (goal is 100%). You can look at e.g. Wolf inserts, and use a large enough exterior blower to achieve adequate flow. However, in general, the hood, particularly in an island/peninsula configuration, needs to overlap the cooktop by at least 3 inches on each side. Most inserts I've seen are too small for island use.

Suggestions above leading to significant renovation of the kitchen area are the best approach if affordable. Otherwise, the goal has to be get as large in capture area as can be afforded.

Adequate island hood capture area, at least at 34.5 inches above an induction cooktop and induction wok hob with 1500 CFM blower on roof (approximately 100 ft/min entry aperture flow rate).

WOW taht whole set up is scary are you in the US or Canada ? Iask because that would never make code is there a redo of the kitchen in the near future ??? That is what you need for sure . I really think to relace what you already had is huge waste of money but do not think there is a cheap fix without a huge redo of the whole kitchen . A gas range needs a good hood and properly placed that is neither .

1- It would be useful to talk to your local Vent A Hood dealer with all your photos to show. They can probably figure out how to increase efficiency.

2- Permits for the hood and stove installation (or kitchen remodel) may be on file at city hall- you can learn a lot from what was planned compared to what is there now.

@Patricia, would you please list the kitchen's problems with the US or Canadian building codes?

PC Is in Canada.

As to the hood? Can't lie, just replace as best you can, open a window. Leave it all alone. The kitchen needs a total gut.

Also....... 30" and a bit is a common distance from cook top. Make sure you have that fan running WELL before you begin cooking and well after. That is true of all fans....: )

Thanks so much everyone, I appreciate the thoughts and suggestions, keep them coming! A complete kitchen redo is not in the cards for us.

So many folks are suggesting to just replace as is if we can't start over. I'll go back to some of my initial thoughts: why not at least improve it a little by dropping the insert (surrounding it with some trim), or mounting an under-cabinet design to the bottom of that construction? Are people concluding that it would look odd and not really improve things?

Many people have also pointed out that an island/penninsula-style hood is much less effective. A much cheaper renovation we could presumably do is to complete the partial wall behind the range. We'd lose the visibility from above the stove to the living room, but we could presumably do that without massive amounts of work. Would that make enough of a difference to be worth it?

@apple_pie_order: Thanks for the thought about talking to a dealer. I did have a conversation with a salesperson, but I didn't get much useful information beyond what I already had. Maybe I should try again.

Island hoods are NOT much less effective if sized correctly with adequate blower flow rate. They are more expensive for various reasons when so constructed.

Generally, the distance to combustibles is determined by the stove's installation instructions. "Combustibles" generally include everything except metal and stone, and the distance includes through the non-combustibles unless they are arraigned in a manner approved by IMC 308.4.2. Hence, the bottom of the structure that the insert is installed in that faces the burners needs to be compliant. Your insurance company's lawyers will generally prevail over your lawyers if you are non-compliant.

Thus, a metal structure that directed rising plume effluent toward an insert may be helpful if present capture and containment is inadequate. Try to achieve an actual 90 CFM/sq. ft. of entry aperture.

I would argue that review of a good portion of the many hood threads on this forum would surpass whatever information most sales persons could manage.

Last, half the kitchen ventilation system is not yet described here. The make-up air (MUA) system is the other half. Code does not allow window-opening to achieve compliance. A means to filter, possibly heat, and insert outside air into the kitchen is needed.

An example: Let the hood or extension entry aperture be 30 x 36 inches, or 7.5 sq. ft. (Pardon the imperial units.) At 90 CFM/sq. ft., flow at full speed needs to be roughly 675 CFM. Blower rating for inserts with baffles and reasonable ducting and reasonable passive MUA should be about 1.5 times this or 1000 CFM to accommodate the blower limitations given by its 'fan curve.' While VaH Magic Lung™ devices don't have baffles, their fans are more sensitive to system pressure losses so don't assume the magic "equivalent" value applies.

Personally, I would rip that out ( soffit included ) and put in a peninsula stainless ( or white ) hood.