Here are the plans as requested

Also renderings

Thanks for posting the plans! Having measurements is very helpful!

I'd like to share a few things based on my experiences.

First, you will have a hard time getting anything in and out of a 33" lazy susan next to the range. Look at the overhead view - how the oven door sticks out past the cabinets. I have a similar situation in our kitchen, and even with a 36" super susan, it's a tight squeeze.

We had three 12" upper cabinets in a previous kitchen, and they were hopeless. I can't even imagine what you would try to put in a 9" upper (or why one would do this intentionally).

We also had 2 angled upper corner cabinets. When we took them down to remodel, I found stuff in the back I didn't even know I had. In the remodel, we replaced those with easy-reach corner cabinets. Our current house had a blind corner - that is, the space in the corner was accessed through the door next to the corner. I think that would be a much better use of your space; sometimes it's not about using every cubic inch - it's making the storage you have more convenient. In your case, you could have 18" doors on each side of the corner, and the corner itself is where you put things you don't use very often. That space is more difficult to use - but not as bad as the big cave of the angled corner.

You have the same problem to the right of the sink: I've had 12" drawers, and they are all but useless (the ones that came out of our last 2 kitchen remodels are now in my workshop. They are fine for boxes of nails and screws, but were not much good in the kitchen). That whole corner is so tight!

What do you plan to store in the cabinets on the fridge wall, to the right of the door (as you face the fridge)? If you used two 30" cabinets and drawer stacks, you would increase your storage space, just by eliminating some cabinet wall, and make them more useful by making them bigger.

As I typed all this, I kept thinking how much better the kitchen could be if the door to the dining room was moved to the corner - where the fridge currently is. You would have nice work and storage space on each side of the range - in our first kitchen remodel, we started with a sink to range corner like yours, and moved the range a foot to the right - it was an incredible improvement! It seems such a waste to put in new cabinets, and not significantly make things better than what you have.

Thank you AnnKH! I’m out at the moment but read your greatly detailed response and I will reply shortly. Quick question. After seeing the layout what do you think of their proposal to put those cabinets etc on the other side of the door way (which is closer to the family room)

I was thinking all the same things as @AnnKH. Do you have need for the extra storage on the other side of the family room door? Will the 12" base next to the sink be used for a trash pullout? The 12" next to the stove will be good for cookie sheets.

@rberesh73-be happy Debbi jumped in here. She knows her ish!

I agree with Ann and Debbi, there are improvements in the design that must be made. And please get rid of all the 12”, and 18” cabinets/ drawers. They serve no purpose.

@rberesh73 …. I liked your request re keeping the focus on the kitchen. I’m sure you’ve noticed that hardwood floors are very popular on this site. I like them too, have had hardwood & engineered wood & currently have LVP in my home. Since we live at the beach with sand, saltwater, kids & their friends, dogs LVP has proven to be as indestructible as you can get. Even though we have an OUTDOOR shower sand somehow makes its way inside. ALWAYS. Previously had beautiful walnut floors but they were much harder to maintain where we live. Our neighbors asked me what kind of wood it is, couldn’t believe it wasn’t real hardwood. Guess we won’t need to get them refinished.

yup. get rid of small drawers. if you keep peninsula the corner cabinet will be good for a recycling depot I have one in my kitchen. unfortunately Im having trouble uploading the photo to this post. Basically, its a pole in middle of cabinet space with three recycling bins attached that rotate around the pole for easy access. To empty, the bins just lift off. The ceiling trim imo should be flat as it gives a more modern look and goes better with shaker style cabinets than the proposed trim
I also agree it is necessary to have the dimensions of the table area beyond the cabinetry. it will certainly give better idea if you actually need a peninsula/ will give one a better idea of how to make the whole space flow. Also. there is amazingly lovely waterproof vinyl laminate on the market that looks like hardwood but much more durable

Thank you all for the responses and I will do my best to answer questions. I currently have a parent in the hospital so I do find myself quite busy and hence the late replies.

Debbi Washburn-

I believe I posted all the plans the designer gave me but I will double check. What area would you like me to meassure for table area of the room? Yes there is just a table in that area. The window or specifically the window trim currently sits lower than the counter top I have. Two different kitchen designers had played with the idea of running the cabinets under that window but I'd have to accept that the cabinets would not be level with the counter. I will try to show pictures and get more information for you.

katinparadise

"Do you have need for the extra storage on the other side of the family room door?"

Great question and my answer would be no. I have another huge closet in my laundry room that I use for storing all my bigger items like blenders, roasting pans, etc. I kind of felt that they just threw those cabinets in to fill as much of my kitchen with cabinets as possible but I try to keep an open mind.

K Laurence

Thank you. Not to add fuel to a fire that's been put out but I did intiallly push for hardwood or engineered hardwood. This would require ripping out the ceramic flooring that runs from the entrance to the exterior of the house, covers the entire kitchen, mud room, laundry room and half bathroom all on the same floor in addition to a heavily beaten down family room that gets saturated by snow, rain and occasional pool water from children, pets and company. Maybe one day.....but for now....I want to be able to live in my house without having to fret from my occasional flare ups of ocd when the flooring gets marked up. My plan will be to run the lvp throughout the entire bottom floor to try to keep things consistent. Thank you for the post! Would love to see what style you selected!

The width of the table area is 8.3 inches. This was measured from the bannister (marked in red) to the peninsula.

" I kind of felt that they just threw those cabinets in to fill as much of my kitchen with cabinets as possible but I try to keep an open mind. "

If you didn't ask for cabinets on that wall, and they just added them anyway, I think you're right - they are working for their commission, not for YOU.

It sounds as though you have storage covered. No need to pay thousands more for cabinets you don't need. Debbi is a great kitchen designer and should be able to help you maximize your storage and layout with as few small cabinets as possible. Adding a cabinet with pullout shelves in the table side of your peninsula is also great, as I said previously, for storing things you don't use every day. And don't forget pullout shelves in your pantry to help you keep track of things that normally end up in back.

I would disregard any further questions about your flooring. It's your home and you know what will work best for your lifestyle. Calling something a plastic floor is just not necessary. I've seen lvp floors in $750,000 houses down here where I live because they're so much easier to maintain in our hot, humid climate. Just be sure to order extra to keep on hand in case of damage. They tend to change styles and colors every 6 months to a year and you might not be able to find it if you need it. I have water resistant laminates in my house and 3 extra boxes under my bed because it stays in here where it's climate controlled.

So strange! My last respinse was submitted on Saturday - not sure why it posted yesterday. It looks like @AnnKH and I had exactly the same thoughts! A few things - I am not opposed to small drawers if that is how a space happens to lay out. I have a 12" w 4 drawer base and love it for veggie peelers, dish towels, pot holders, garlic press, whisks, measuring spoons and all those small things - it keeps them organized. It could also have been a 12" spice rack pullout - there are ones where the top portion has canisters for spatulas, ladles etc.

I have no thoughts on hardwood vs lvp - I am struggling with that decision for my own home!

Please get the dimension of the room from the left of the window all the way across including the location of the slider. You mentioned a banister? Where is that? We really need pics of the details of the whole space. Thanks! And what is the dimension from the floor to the bottom of the window trim as well as to the bottom of the sill. It looks like it is very close. Cabinets and counters can still go there. Here is a pic of what I did in someone's kitchen

This way they didn't have the expense of a new window. It is only about 2" lower - still very useable!

Also - how big is your table? Not sure if I missed it, but do you have a dining room? or is this it?

Thanks!

@katinparadise Thank you for your kind words

Played with your kitchen plan a little. Took the molding off the door to the dining room ( I see now that you have a dining room ) in order to grab a couple of inches for the stove area. Put in a 36 " lazy susan instead. The cabinets in that area are going to be small no matter what so it is best to maximize the bigger cabinet and do pullouts or tray bases for the smaller ones.

In my plans I used a full depth 36" wide ref so you can see how that stands in the space. I got rid of the peninsula in one design and put cabinets under that window and in the second plan I eliminated the table and did a large peninsula.

Just some thoughts!

BTW - these are the kinds of persectives your kitchen designer should be showing you - colors, floors , tile - something a bit more real. That's my opinion.

Hope this gives you some ideas.

Not a pro but have recently gone thru the flooring decision with a lake home - this forum strongly leans hardwood (which i love and have in my home but didnt want in a lake home with tons of sand and dogs) - it is hard to get good info on the many choices, especially laminate vs LVP - one piece of advice is to find the best local installer you can and talk with them about their install preference (some lean toward Coretec and others seem to prefer Mohawk Revwood) anyhoo sorry for the ramblings but lots of good advice and real life pics jn this facebook group when you’re ready to tackle the decision (which is super stressy imo 😅) https://www.facebook.com/share/g/17HubrWg1j/

la_la Girl Thank you. Again, not to detract from the kitchen discussion but I also love hardwood and would do hardwood....however it's just not a practical idea for me....at least at this stage. Rain, snow, pool water, younger children, pets that go for a swim. I can only imagine the wear and tear. I had even considered hardwood in just some of the room but then I'm going to have a patchwork type main floor. LVP it is and hopefully I can find something that doesn't look too 'plastic'...ha.

Debbi Washburn

Hi Debbi and thank you for your time and amazing designs. Really wish my designer had come up with presentations like this! I also really love the layouts you came up with and I'm curious what you'll think of when I enclose these pictures. I had thought I included them but evidently I did not fully show the adjoining family room. All apologies as I thought they had been included. Again, really love the direction you are going with the kitchen designs and I finally feel I found someone that is understanding the room.

Also the floor to the window trim is 3 feet 9 inches and it is 4 feet to the window sill. The kitchen table itelf can be replaced, however it is the preferred eating area for all of us. Yes I do have a dining table and room that is just behind the stove wall which I use for holidays.

So the window is high enough for cabinets underneath. Is that a step down into the family room? I think I would change the banister and opening. Run the kitchen cabinets under the window to the banister and have the step down there. Many people prefer a table and that's fine. Wondering if you could do 2 sofas opposite each other and move the table onto that level? Then you could have more cabinets for the kitchen or have a peninsula and a table. Have you ever tried that?

I belive that both designers that visited my house said that cabinets could go underneath. It wouldn't be perfectly straight with a regular counter height but it could be done. I'm not partial to the bannister to either way. It can stay or go and with new flooring that could be a time to decide. I do prefer a table or i'd be open to an island but I'm not sure if there is enough room for one. I did look into the 2 sofa set up but right now I'm still sort of stuck on the chairs in the current corners facing the tv. While it's another part of the reno, I do plan on redoing that family room as well....new flooring, lights, perhaps new fireplace as well.

If you’re looking to redo the family room space as well, it may be worth getting a quote to raise the floor to meet the kitchen flooring height. Then you’d have lots of layout options. But you may want the step down or it could be $$$.

Meghan W

Unfortunately, raising the floor would then lead to problems with my patio doors and deck which are off of my family room

Rambling thoughts:

- So your main goal is to update the cabinetry -- while basically keeping the layout the same. I can buy into that because I love U-shaped kitchens, and yours -- with the U + back wall of cabinets is my absolute favorite kitchen shape.

- Keeping the range-wall doesn't bother me in the least. It's not a large space, so even if you could remove this wall, it'd be interrupted by the range hood and backsplash. Removing this wall would be a poor use of money. Very poor.

- First question: What kind of condition are the cabinets in? Looking at those doors (with that weird center-hardware) I'm thinking they were installed in the 70s? If they're in decent shape, you might look at just replacing the doors. On the other hand, that might be a lipstick-on-a-pig situation -- only you, who can see and touch the cabinets know. My 1970s cabinet boxes are in great condition, but the doors are warped.

- Second thought: Even if you're leaving the layout "as is", you want to maximize effeciency. A couple thoughts on choosing cabinets wisely:

- You've said you're taking the cabinets to the wall. Absolutely the right choice. The cost won't be huge, and it creates a calm, polished look. With taller cabinets, ask the cabinet maker to give you an extra shelf.

- I like the little corner display shelves near the peninsula, and you've cut them out! Noooo -- I'd want to keep that design feature in the new kitchen -- I doubt it costs much, and it's a bit of personality.

- I'm not loving the "enclosed look" around your current sink -- it makes me want to pull my shoulders in, as if I don't have enough space for myself. I would skip the wooden valence /allow more open-ness at the sink. Then top the sink with a lovely curtain, taking the curtain rod to the ceiling.

- I question the Lazy Susan in the corner by the range, but for the same reasons that other people have discussed -- so I won't get into that.

- If you do keep the Lazy Susan, be sure you get a Super Susan /not a Lazy Susan. The difference: A Super Susan is two wooden turntables, each sitting on their own shelf. Solid. While a Lazy Susan is a plastic turntable balancing on one central stem. Google the difference, and you'll 100% agree.

- If you get rid of the Lazy Susan, look into adding a shorty-door in the dining room, which can access the space in that corner. This won't be super-convenient to the kitchen, but it could be a great place to store Christmas dishes, occasional serving ware, bulk-purchased paper goods.

- You're not going with seating at the peninsula? Good -- with a kitchen table AND a dining table, you don't need it -- and that back row of extra cabinets is welcome storage. I'm thinking they're shallow cabinets? Then keep them cabinets /not drawers; things won't be lost at the back of 12-15" cabinets.

- You're going with no uppers between the kitchen and the breakfast room? Good call. You have enough other cabinets, and you're already used to the open-ness.

- You have several 12" cabinets -- these are next-to-worthless. Trust me: I have one next to my range -- I keep two pot holders "standing up" on the lower shelf and spices for refills on the upper shelf. Remember that 3-4" will go to the side hardware, leaving you only 8-9" of usable space. This is not worth the money.

- I'd fight the devil to get rid of these 12" cabinets, but -- if you're forced to keep them -- look for some pull-out Rev-a-Shelf spice pull outs on Amazon. It'll be a best-of-a-bad-situation solution.

- I like the back wall. I like the microwave's spot: convenient to the fridge, up off the countertop. I hope the toaster can move over to this spot, as it's hogging valuable space by the range.

- I'd like to see glass fronts on the 65" cabinet run uppers -- would give you so much display space. If that seems like too much glass, consider glass in the middle /solid doors on the sides (or vice-versa). Consider, too, making the middle upper slightly deeper than the others (I'm talking 2-3"). 65" is a long cabinet run to be completely flat.

- Something I don't hear any chatter about is lighting -- and that makes a world of difference. In this kitchen, I'd like to see: 1) a pendant above the sink + 2 above the peninsula. 2) undercounter lighting under the uppers /including the "back run cabinet". 3) Maybe a central light in the middle of the U /that one's actually the least important.

- This board is united on few things, but two of them are: Drawers instead of traditional cabinets anywhere it's appropriate. And large, single-bowl sinks.

you have a nice dining room, why not remove the kitchen table and extend the peninsula to between the window and patio door?

This would create a larger kitchen, but the OP hasn't expressed a single word about needing more space. Bigger is not better. I would keep the two dining areas. I've lived in this layout and loved it.

Question being what color and style would one recommend. I'm thinking shaker and perhaps a shade of white?

This is pure opinion. We can't see your overall house -- does it suggest any particular decade or style? If so, the right answer is, match the kitchen to the house. If no particular style exists, understand that Shaker is basically the major trend of the -- I want to say moment, but the right answer is coupla-decades. Most of what you'll see is Shaker, and it is simple, basic, unlikely to look /feel offensive in future decades.

I hear you talking about door style. You also need to choose between Partial Overlay, Full Overlay and Inset. Google to SEE the difference. Also study up on Frameless vs. Framed cabinets. Note that the price difference between these styles can be significant (Inset being the most expensive by a fairly wide margin -- though, to tell the truth, your kitchen doesn't lend itself to Inset.) .

I also don't hear you thinking about counter tops, and in a U-shaped kitchen, the counter tops seem to "hit the eye" before the cabinets. Why? A U-shaped kitchen is compact, and the shape hides the cabinetry, whereas the counter top is showcased. So definitely think about your counter tops along with the cabinets.

Color is 100% opinion. I will say this: White is hard to get right; it can come out as flat.

You mention flooring: Stick with a mid-tone, and it'll be a simple background -- again, mid-tone will never look /feel offensive. Another thought: Pick a flooring that ties into your dirt. If you have red clay, choose something with red undertones. If you're near the beach and have sandy soil, go with something more pale. The idea being, hide dirt. Having said that, white oak is probably the darling-of-the-moment, but I personally am drawn to deeper tones, and I like red oak. I can't imagine you'd be disappointed with either.

While I understand that you use the current table that's in the kitchen all the time - it seems like a huge waste to have a dining room that is only used a few times a year.

If the OP were building from scratch, I'd probably buy into this idea, but -- when you rennovate -- the world isn't your oyster. Since the spaces already exist, I'd stick with two tables. Two are useful -- for holidays you can put the kids at the kitchen table, while the adults sit in the dining room. Or if the kids have covered the kitchen table with a school project, you can still eat at the dining room table.

For flooring, there are many advantages to hardwood or engineered hardwood over LVP. Despite the name, there is nothing "luxury" about plastic flooring.

I agree that the name "luxury" is a marketing ploy, but it's exactly what I'd put in a kitchen. Because this kitchen is sandwiched between other rooms, it makes sense for the flooring to run throughout -- so I'd 100% go with LVP.

As for plastic, I much prefer the laminate in my kitchen over the real tile in my bathrooms. It's softer, kinder to the joints and warmer under bare feet.

There is a 33" lazy susan next to a stove- had that on display in a showroom once and you could not open the door. The only stuff you could get into there were basically spice jars or pasta sauce jars. Not only do you have 1 but 2!!

WAIT, I missed that. I love a Lazy Susan (well, Super Susan -- see my above thoughts), but they are not useful enough to build in TWO. With this in mind, my opinion changes: Nix that Lazy Susan by the range. That'll allow you a ... maybe 15-16" drawer to the right of the range. That drawer 100% trumps a second Lazy Susan; that drawer will hold your stovetop accessories and will be used every single meal.

That leaves you with a dead cabinet space in the corner. I'd build in a small drawer (accessible from the dining room) for occasional storage.

The new fridge would be counter depth.

Understand that counter depth fridges still "stick out" beyond the countertops.

this forum strongly leans hardwood

Eh, I dunno. this board has a couple THIS OR NOTHINGS, but I'm not sure hardwood is one of them. Even if true, no one has to obey strangers on the internet, though it's wise to listen /evaluate multiple people's thoughts.

The width of the table area is 8.3 inches.

Yikes that ain't much. I'd investigate building in a small L-shaped banquette with a small rectangular table. Banquette seating can be a real space saver, and I love the look. This is just a window by the table, right? Not a door? What would look great here is a bay window -- it could "open up" the small space. Or a box bay.

Sending good thoughts to you and your family. With someone in the hospital, it's very hard to focus on anything else!

I'm going to pick on one little thing only, as you are in very good hands already. There is no such thing as "timeless." You are never going to find "timeless" kitchen cabinetry, because what's available now is always of its time. There are some options that might be considered "classic," but even the estimation of what is classic is usually colored by what we're used to seeing in the present day.

So don't look for a timeless cabinet style. Be sure the function you want is all there. If a certain type of cabinet door interferes with access to the inside, then that's not a good choice for you. If you are happier in non-ornate surroundings, don't pick an ornate cabinet front. If you want easy to clean, pick slab and not shaker. And ask yourself if you will still like what you see in 25 years. 25 years is a span of time, not timeless, but it's a pretty good run for your money.

Theresa Peterson

- First question: What kind of condition are the cabinets in?

The cabinets are in great shape but I am looking for an update in terms of appearance and function.

you have a nice dining room, why not remove the kitchen table and extend the peninsula to between the window and patio door?

This would create a larger kitchen, but the OP hasn't expressed a single word about needing more space.

When it comes to space I've tried to monitor myself over the last month or so. I do know that I can't do with any less counter space. I could always use more. Also, I'm not looking to hide the microwave in a cupboard. I'm thinking my cupboard and cabinet space is fine which is why I'm not in favor of that extra shelving near the walkway.

Question being what color and style would one recommend. I'm thinking shaker and perhaps a shade of white?

While I understand that you use the current table that's in the kitchen all the time - it seems like a huge waste to have a dining room that is only used a few times a year.

If the OP were building from scratch, I'd probably buy into this idea, but -- when you rennovate -- the world isn't your oyster.

I have gone over the idea for the better part of a year. Not really a cost of money, but more about works for the family. If anything, I'd prefer that my dining room was actually expanded but a support beam prevents that from truly happening.

The width of the table area is 8.3 inches.

Yikes that ain't much. I'd investigate building in a small L-shaped banquette with a small rectangular table. Banquette seating can be a real space saver, and I love the look. This is just a window by the table, right? Not a door? What would look great here is a bay window -- it could "open up" the small space. Or a box bay.

Yes the width of the table area is fairly small. The kitchen designer suggested I get a smaller table....which is fine. There is a window there and no door.

It seems as though you've thought through everything very thoroughly. Are there any of Debbie's designs that appeal to you at first glance?

katinparadise

Hi there, yes i've received a lot of valuable advice on here including Debbie's wonderful designs . I am curious to see what Debbie's layout suggestions are based upon my updated kitchen table area dimensions and also the updated information about the stepdown living room off of the kitchen. It may alter (or not) her plans for me. Either way I'm super appreciative!

So the plans that I did earlier did include the current table area based on the plans you had posted early on. The step down off the kitchen will not allow the peninsula plan that I did. You did not answer my previous question - have you tried putting the table in the living room area ( that looks like a long thin room )?? Then you could have a peninsula piece and the cabinets opposite. There is not enough room for an island in this kitchen at all.

How big is the living room area?? Is it the only living room? How far over is the sliding glass door? Can you raise the floor up to the sliding glass door in order to expand the kitchen? So many questions.

How about this - What is the ultimate goal of the kitchen remodel?? Let's start there.

Debbi Washburn

Sorry, with all of the posts I've made it is difficult to keep track. I did not put the table in the living room and do not have plans to. I prefer having the 2 seperate rooms with one being the kitchen area (where we do 90% of our gathering and eating) and the seperate long thin room is a formal dining room area that we use for holidays.

Agreed, there is not enough room for an island in the kitchen area.

The living room area would be similiar in length and width as the kitchen itself. Probably 95% of our time is spent in this living room as it backs onto our patio and patio doors which includes a nice view. Not looking to raise the floor in the living room.

The ultimate goal of the kitchen remodel is to update it in aesthetics and functionality in it's current space. I have had previous kitchen designers suggest knocking out the stove wall and expand into the dining room, raise flloors, change windows, go from 2 dining areas to one, remove the formal dining room altogether and just have an island etc. After careful thought and consideratoin none of that really seemed to appealing. I am open to different ideas about the pennisula. Some suggested move it down, others had suggested removing it. I do know for sure that I cannot spare to lose 1cm of counter space. I do use the penninsula quite a bit for preparation before placing food on the table if that helps.

Spring for inset cabinets

Inset cabinets can look gorgeous, but reduce storage space. I wouldn’t choose them for a small kitchen, where storage is already limited.

Debbi Washburn

To recap a bit. I do like your redesign of the fridge side wall. Also, I'm thankful for everyone's input into removing the Lazy Susan's and for illustrating the problems with their placement in that original design. I'd probably say my biggest issue at this point is that peninsula/kitchen table. I was really blown away with the extension of the cabintry going under the window. My only problems there are again I do have that drop down family room, and also would still like to have an eating area in the kitchen. An island seems unlikely, and I wonder with that extension if a kitchen table wouldn't be feasible as it is such a narrow kitchen. Might also look odd with the table in front of the cabinets? I'm not sure.

I don't know as it would look odd to have the table in front of the cabinets. It would give more of an eat-in kitchen feel as opposed to a breakfast area. I grew up with an eat-in kitchen but I know thoughts on that have changed over the years. I think the bigger question is whether or not having the cabinets along the wall would make it feel like useful storage and counter space to you. Yes, you would have a bit more counter space, but would it function as well for you as your current peninsula does?

katinparadise

Great points. I do agree that the designers suggestion to add those cabinets on that open wall opposite the kitchen table would definitely eat up a lot of room and honestly, I don't feel I need more storage space. If anything, I can't lose counter space.

Your kitchen already has such great bones, a functional layout, and so much potential—you’re already off to an amazing start with your remodel plan, and it’s so smart to keep the existing footprint while making targeted upgrades. This space is going to be absolutely stunning when you’re done!

1. Cabinet Door Style & Color Recommendation

Your idea of Shaker-style cabinets in a warm white is perfect for this space—it’s exactly the timeless, versatile choice you’re looking for, and it will make the kitchen feel bright, open, and fresh while still feeling classic enough to last for decades.

• Why this works: Shaker’s simple, clean lines complement your home’s existing traditional vibe without feeling dated, and a warm white (like Benjamin Moore Simply White or Sherwin-Williams Alabaster) will bounce light around the room, making the space feel bigger and more inviting.
• Pro tip to make it "pop": Add a subtle contrast with a soft, warm gray or greige on the island cabinets, or a warm wood tone on the lower table/breakfast bar to add depth. You can also elevate the look with brushed nickel or matte black hardware—matte black will add a modern edge that pairs beautifully with white Shaker cabinets, while brushed nickel feels timeless and warm.
• Alternative if you want a little personality: If you want to keep it timeless but add a subtle twist, a soft off-white with warm undertones (instead of stark bright white) will feel cozier and more welcoming, and pair beautifully with your existing tile and flooring.

2. Thoughts on Adding Cabinets to the "Dead Zone" Wall Behind the Table

This is a brilliant idea from your designer, and I fully support it! That empty wall is such a wasted opportunity, and adding cabinets here will solve so many problems:

• Massive storage gain: You’ll get extra pantry space, a spot for small appliances, or even a built-in coffee bar/wine nook, which is a game-changer for kitchen functionality.
• Visual balance: It will frame the dining area, create a cohesive, finished look for the kitchen, and balance the cabinetry on the opposite wall, making the entire space feel intentional and symmetrical.
• Flexible design options:
  • Go with the same white Shaker style as your main cabinets for a seamless, unified look.
  • Add a countertop to the lower cabinets to create a built-in buffet/sideboard for serving during meals, which pairs perfectly with your new lower kitchen table.
  • Add open shelving on the upper portion for displaying decor, cookbooks, or pretty dishware, to keep the space from feeling closed off.
• Bonus: If you want to keep the space feeling open, you can do a mix of closed lower cabinets for storage and open upper shelves, which adds style without overwhelming the room.

So I would not put the table in front of the cabinets. Change the railing so it changes the traffic. Make the opening of the railing to step down in front of the cabinets. It's a breakfast area, not a dining room. If you are going to cram people there then you should revisit opening to the dining room and using that space for all your meals and doing a whole different kitchen layout. I really don't like when people do not use their dining rooms - it is waste real estate unless of course it is a home that " needs" to have the proverbial formal dining space.

The way I see it, your options are:

Keep the layout as is and just get taller cabinets

Get rid of the table and do a large peninsula with maximum cabinets in the space

Revisit taking down the wall into the dining room and doing a larger layout change.

You need to explore all of those designs and see what works best for you.

I think I'll add this alternate view for people to see.

perfect jor

Thanks for the tips! I do like the footprint of the kitchen but again was open to some slight changes whether it be the table or the pennisula. I'm still not sold on that idea of putting cabinets or counter space in that 'dead zone'. If you look from this perspective, you can see it would be directly behind a chair and alternatively would really close in the kitchen. Also what they are proposing would also be interupting the flow of the walk way in my opinion.

Debbi Washburn

Thanks Debbi. We really enjoy having both options of having the formal dining room (we just used it for Easter) as well as have the extra table where we can have breakfast, lunch and dinner. There's really no cramming as it's just the 4 of us and even with this big table we have plenty of room. Definitely can't do the cabinets behind that table so that looks like a no as well. Thanks again for the input!

I would love to get you more space on each side of the range. I know you're used to it this way, but you can't even imagine how fabulous it would be to not have the sink and stove jammed in a corner.

Do you suppose your family could adapt to using the dining room for all your meals, so you could expand the kitchen? I would run cabinets (all drawers, probably) under the big window, put the range between the windows with a hood venting to the outside. Next a 24" drawer stack, a 30" sink base, 18" trash pullout. The corner is dead. Where the range was, put a 30" drawer stack, with the DW at the end. I know having the DW on the adjacent leg is not ideal, but I lived with that scenario for 30 years, and it was fine - and much better than the crowded sink/stove corner.

Because I'm short, I wouldn't like the MW on a shelf - I'd put it on the counter by the DW (there's plenty of counter space there now).

If you feel like you HAVE to have some seating in the kitchen, add a peninsula and a couple of stools.

I have a few thoughts. What if you were to eliminate the peninsula and move the refrigerator over to where the peninsula is now? Use a counter depth refrigerator with a full depth overhead cabinet and a side panel. You can afford to add a few more inches to that side of the kitchen before you hit the window. Switching to a 32-36" wide ectangular table will help you do that without much trouble. Close up the cased opening into the front room by about 12" or so. Move the stove to the refrigerator wall, centered between drawer banks on either side. Take all the uppers to the ceiling. Where the stove is now, turn that into just cabinet and counter space with a pantry cabinet at the end that's similar to the size you have now on the refrigerator wall. That will make up the counter space you lose on the peninsula side, and give you move open space to work around the stove. It would even let you widen the opening into the dining room a little because you would not have to worry about the depth of the refrigerator on that side. Or you could have all just uppers and lowers on the side where the stove is now and keep a pantry cabinet where you currently have one.

AnnKH

I definitely would love more space on each side of the range as well. Unfortunately I'm limited by spacing there. Funnily enough our first designer suggested putting the range where you are suggesting. The only hiccup there would be that people entering the house would have a clear view down the hall right to the stove which may or may not be a pretty sight. Where would you be suggesting to add the peninsula?

katinparadise

Some interesting suggestions that I haven't heard before. I will mull that over!

It would put the refrigerator in an easy spot to reach from the table when you forget the ketchup or want to refill a drink. I don't think you'd be losing any counter space at all and adding nice large drawer bases will definitely increase your storage.

katinparadise

Thank you and thank you to everyone. I'm hoping to take as many ideas from here soon and submit then to the designer.

Shaker doors seems to be the consensus. Double sink. Fridge needs to be moved. The 'dead space' seems to be a toss up on here. Lazy susans and especially 2 that were suggested in the original seem to be off the table here. Also I will bring the suggested types of cabinets to suggest. Really appreciate everyone who contributed to this new adventure. I've been at this house for the last 10 years or so and I've redone the upstairs, basement, outside front and back. The main floor is my last job...(ha for now)....and a new front door is in the works this year as well.

Ooh, I like kat's idea to move the fridge and range! While not ideal, with the oven door opening in the walkway, it is far better than where the range is now.

Here's how I would arrange it:

Fridge next to the low window (with a surround and cabinet above)

DW

30" sink (we have this, with a 60/40 sink, it's perfect)

18" trash pullout

dead corner

3-stack drawers, 30"

4-stack drawers, 18"

I would put fewer upper on the window side - there isn't room between the fridge and window, so I wouldn't crowd the window on the other side of the sink. You could use an easy-reach upper, or just have uppers on the adjacent wall.

I would put 36" drawers on each side of the range, giving you plenty of counter space. The configuration of the uppers depends on whether you do with a larger range hood, and what you will be storing in those cabinets I like at least one cabinet hinged to I can easily access spices and oils while standing at the range.

If, after you develop a storage plan to see where everything will go in this configuration, you decide you need pantry space, you can put just cabinets on the "dead" wall, 15" deep. I don't think that will feel as crowded to you as base cabinets with a counter. Or you could add cabinets at the end of the new stove wall, 15" deep, opening toward the family room.

But with cabinets to the ceiling, and large drawers, you may discover that you don't need any additional storage.

Thanks @AnnKH for suggesting cabinet sizes. Hoping Debbi gets on to give her input as well. I was also thinking no pantry may be needed after improving the cabinet storage. Taller uppers with adjustable shelves may do the trick.

@rberesh73, I have a double sink as well. I use one side to wash and keep my dishes that were handwashed to dry in the other. That way I don't deal with a dish drainer on the counter.

I'm sure you're looking forward to finally finishing the rest of the house. It's always a work in progress, isn't it?

katinparadise

I do the same with the double sink I have now. I really like having them so glad to see others like the double as well.

Ha, I AM looking forward to finally finishing the rest of the house. Originally I wanted to do the main floor when I moved here....but now it will be the last thing I finish....which is a good thing as it will be the most current work for friends and family to see.

The entire main floor needs to be redone. Starting with this kitchen and flooring. I might also redo that fireplae in the future as well. Like you said, it's always a work in progress and i've always found the 'best' work has been done by consulting with a few different opinions and perspectives rather than in isolation.

I would suggest 2 different colors the base cabinets minus pantry a darker color (grey or blue) and uppers off white.. your peninsula and the pantry cabinet will be a rockstars, then you would have wide open options for color scheme renovating around the house.. good luck

Well hopefully the kitchen will be able to be started soon. I'll be curious to see what new designs your kitchen person comes up with.

Please do not move the ref onto the wall the sink is on. That will kill the visual of the room and kill your counter space! Leave it in the area that it is in.

Debbi, my thought with that is it would give more counter space on the sink wall as well as around the stove. But you certainly have more experience than I do!