a photo of the other fixtures would help.

Think manicure or old age fingers when selecting hardware.

36" finished countertop is also a nice height.

I agree 36" height for sure and there are many cabinets now that still have storage where the plumbing is instead of a fake front.

You might want to consider under cabinet lighting for under the vanity.

When I had my floating vanity installed, I still had a hidden base support with flooring that ran up the front side of the base. Still looked like the vanity was floating.

Yes, I'm doing undercabinet lighting. Will do 36 inch height. Just trying to decide on door pulls. I'm not sure I like the look of handles as much as slim tabs or concealed edge pulls but maybe if the handels were thin. All hardware in showere is modern with mostly squared edges. Using Moen 90 degrees in shower and Moen Genta Widespread double handle faucet in spot resistent brush nickel. Sink is rectangle.

I’d wait until the vanity is installed and major items are complete. Then test different hardware to get a sense of what suits vanity and room, keeping in mind functionality and proportions as well.

Playing devil's advocate with this first question: What is your motivation in going with a floating vanity? It costs you storage -- sure, this is a guest bath now, and you don't really need much storage, but life is long, and you or a future owner may wish you had those extra drawers.

I think the drawers you're considering are going to be deep. I'd consider doing a drawer-inside-drawer slider to get a bit of shallow storage for those small things you keep near the sink.

A floating vanity is a modern look. Are you carrying that modern look through in your choice of mirror, lighting, and more? I'd think a wall-mounted faucet would look modern.

I agree with Maureen -- don't think about hardware just yet.

Thank you. I just realized my vanity is 52 inches and not 54. I like the look of the floating vanity and also my bathroom in pretty narrow so thought it would help to make the space look larger. The top drawers will likely be 4-5 inches deep and lower drawers about 12 inches deep. I was thinking of smaller items in top drawers. Maybe need drawer inside drawer for at least one of the bottom drawers. But, I'm not familiar with that concept. Would my cabinet maker likely know how to do that?

P.S. Yes, wall mounted faucet may look more modern. I can look into that. I was planning to do an LED "touch" mirror above vanity.

Floating vanities are not only for modern bathrooms. I've seen quite a few that look nice in transitional bathrooms. It really depends on the details of the vanity - if it's one that isn't very long = a lot of space between bottom of vanity and floor + has glossy white or walnut slab doors = a definite modern look.

I also have a floating vanity in a bathroom - it is also supported by recessed boards as Beverly did in her bathroom. My vanity isn't very far off the floor - I debated whether to add some nice looking support legs that could be seen along the front (I still sometime think that I should add them - however, there isn't a lot of space - and I doubt anyone would notice except for me!)

A floating vanity does make the room look wider - seeing more of the floor tile gives the illusion of more space.

I also have under cabinet lighting - they are on motion detectors = they come on at night in order to eliminate the need to to flip on lights when using the bathroom in the middle of the night. It's a nice feature that was pretty inexpensive.

I think you may have changed the finished height to 36" - I wouldn't do shorter than that.

Also, you don't have to lose the top drawer. A u-shaped cut out will help for the pipes + you can do a thicker mitered counter to help house the sink (plus, have a bit of frame between the countertop and the top drawer if more space is needed).

The drawer fronts can be built to be taller than the sides of the drawers = they hide the frame that provides the extra space in order to have a useable drawer.