The question on pulsing is a good one. For clarity, "pulsing" is not audible clicking or audible on-and-off cycles but, rather, pulsing in the fluid in the pan. Put a cup of water in a pan and set the power to one of the low settings. Wait a couple of minutes. Do owners see a pattern of bubbling-stillness-bubbling-stillness or does the water seem to be at a steady state? That is what you want to know, right?

Correct. Is the heat turning on/off/on/off/on/off to maintain low temperatures, or is the heat constantly on but just legitimately LOW.

Obviously, easier to simmer if it is constantly on. Whereas if it pulses on/off, like you said, it will kind of simmer, then stop simmer, then start simmering etc.

Kind of like how when a good gas cooktop is on low, you have a constant flame, it is just really small. I want the equivalent of that, but in induction form!

In answer to your question about the bridge, it isn't a true bridge in the sense of heating happening in between the two elements. There isn't heat between the two elements. The bridge feature lets you control the two burners together.

Here is my video cooking bacon on 3 and 4. Turn on the volume and you'll notice the buzz coincides with the sizzle of bacon.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8x2F53y_Q30 

Ron:

Thank you for the video.

To me, that seems to be rather crude pulsing. Very much like what I
recall from a demo of some of the previous generation of
Whirlpool/Maytag induction ranges and cooktops from four years ago. To be sure, it is
not bad as observed with the less expensive portable countertop
induction units.

Still, at power level 3, and for the price of the KA/Jenn Air induction ranges, I would have expected much better.

Anon:

All induction uses power switching for heat control as do microwave ovens (except for the Panasonic "inverter" models, IIRC.)

The technical term is "Pulse Width Modulation" or "PWM."

The more frequently and precisely that switching/pulsing occurs, the more PWM
can seem indistinguishable from a constant low power setting. Have you
seen Gary/Dodge59's video of the absence of such
switching noise and cooking fluctuations on his Electrolux Icon induction
cooktop? If not, it was done five years ago and can be found here.My own induction cooktop also works down to the very lowest power levels without any noticeable on-off fluctuations.

Thanks, Ron. I'm personally not so concerned about the noise of the clicking. The fact that, in your video, it is very clear that the heat is inconsistent (cycling on/off/on/off, as evidenced by the sizzle of your bacon coming and going in sync with the clicking) is what disturbs me. I deal with inconsistent heat on my electric range. If I go induction, a requirement is that it be a significant improvement. And from what I see in your video, I'm not so sure it would be.

I would love to hear from other KitchenAid induction owners if Ron's experience is typical. Is everybody experiencing the on/off pulsing, and the resulting inconsistent heat, at lower hob settings? Is it possible that the problem is cookware dependent? Ron, have you tried a different brand of pan?

From what I've read on this forum, there are certainly induction appliances that do not pulse on/off the way that Ron's video shows. Anybody know if the Bosch range suffers from the same problem?

mnnie, do you have a webpage or source for your information about the bridge mode? That would also be very disappointing to have a noticeable "dead zone" in the middle of the so-called "bridge."

Apparently the Wolf induction range has a true bridge mode and does not pulse. But it is $6500 and the oven has the known enamel chipping problem. Other than the Wolf, is anybody aware of an induction range that has a legitimate bridge mode?

Looks like I may need to scrap the idea of a range, and go with a good standalone induction cooktop, if I want a true bridge mode and no pulsing.

Agreed about the clicking, that's not as concerning to me as the on-off-on-off heat. I haven't thoroughly tested it. That's an All-Clad SS pan, but I don't know specifics regarding how many ply or anything. Since my range still hasn't been repaired, I still have the option to return it for something else. Anyone have a suggestion for something else in that sub-3000 price range that might have more power settings, roll out oven rack (it's actually something I've really liked about this range) that will have more steady/even heat, like gas? Also, I'm annoyed because one "pro" for the KA is the temperature probe, but it's not included as I've read it hasn't passed final compliance (maybe FCC if it's remote?).

>>> Ron: "Anyone have a suggestion for something else in that sub-$3000 price range
that might have more power settings, roll out oven rack (it's actually
something I've really liked about this range) that will have more
steady/even heat, like gas?"<<<

Well, the two I know of are the generally well-regarded GE PHS920 slide-in priced at around $2400 (from online vendors) and the much less expensive Frigidaire slide in FGIS2065 (around $1500 or so). Unless you want to reconsider your rejection of these models (in your thread "Stumped on induction"), that is pretty much it for sub $3k slide-ins with more power settings and a roller rack, AFAIK.

>>> Anon: "Anybody know if the Bosch range suffers from the same problem?"<<<

Never seen a mention of it in any of the many Bosch cooktop threads nor in the long thread here on the Bosch range where it likely would have been mentioned if the range did exhibit the pulsing behavior. You might post your question in that thread or, better still, start a new thread of your own with a title "Does the Bosch Induction Range Pulse at Low Heat Settings?"

BTW, it seems that the new 30" Wolf induction range does not have "legitimate" bridge elements. Wolf's website describes the bridging for its similar cooktops as simply linking controls for two burners. The website does not mention actual bridging elements between the burners on the stove. Also, a friend of mine recently inquired of the local Wolf dealer and was told that the range does not have heating elements in-between the hobs.

I spoke to KA (transferred 5x, disconnected once). The temperature probe is backordered until at least January. An annoyance more than anything.

JWV - I've read so much that it's hard to keep them all straight. Electrolux has the most heat settings, but I can't remember what the knock on it was. Is it simply out of my price range?

Like the Bosch, the Electrolux Wave-Touch slide-in is over $3k (around $3200, IIRC). FWIW, very much the same as the previous model which also had more knocks against it than on the GE slide-in.

jwvideo, I actually talked to Wolf about their bridge mode. I posted a diagram that they sent me in my thread at http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/4292363/bridge-mode-on-induction-cooktops-how-good-esp-bosch-30-range#18807832. It does not look like a "perfect" bridge, but the burners are almost square in shape and appear to have only a very slight gap between them. That's good enough for me.

I emailed KitchenAid to ask about their bridge mode. If theirs is comparable to the Wolf, that would also be good enough for me. (But, of course, wouldn't solve the potential pulsing issue!).

Thanks for the link. I missed that thread. One question, though, do we know the size of the fields produced by the burner assemblies? Induction magnetic fields can be smaller than the burner assemblies and there might be larger gaps between the fields than the spacing of the assemblies might indicate. I'm recalling a video I've seen somewhere which showed a smaller, squarish bubble pattern in a pot on one of the unbridged burners and I think it might have been a Wolf demo. My searching skills are nor turning it up, though. Our local Wolf dealer does not have any of the induction ranges, yet. Are you anywhere near a dealer who could demo the stove?

Are you thinking of this Video ? Look at around 2:46

Ah, it was the Miele range, not the Wolf.

I saw the GE slide in today and it's got that half-inch overhang. My countertop only comes up 35.5". I can't tell if it's going to be a problem if that half inch of glass "floats."

That video is pulsing. My Cooktek doesn't do that. It seems to increase the number of pulses during a fixed period in order to set the level.

Ron, my countertops are also about 35.5". How much does the KitchenAid stick up past your countertops? About 1/2" or so? Does it bother you at all?

It doesn't bother me at all, but part of that is knowing my counters (and hopefully cabinets) will get replaced as part of phase 2.

Ron and Anon: The GE, Frigidaire and Bosch all have the traditional slide-in overhang/flange to the sides. It leaves a gap with side countertops less than a certain height. Their slide in stoves --- gas. radiant electric, dual fuel and induction slide-ins --- only adjust down so far. Usually something like 35 3/4" IIRC. (Who knows where design mavens get such ideas?) The gap between flange and countertop is perceived as a cosmetic problem by some, but not a functional problem unless you are in the habit of dropping bowling balls and cast-iron-pots directly onto the edge of the overhanging part of the flanges. IIRC, saltimboca posted about solving this gap problem with some home-fabricated black-painted, trim strips and provided photos. That was four or so years ago about halfway through this long thread on the previous version of the GE slide-in induction range. (dunno if the photos are still linked.) The KA/JennAIr and the Miele slide-ins (and also GE's Cafe line) are the newer style fo slide-in that dispenses with the overhanging flanges.

If you already knew this, please disregard.

Thanks for the info, and thanks for the pics Ron. That would not bother me, either.

Something else I've noticed, in cooking on the KA induction range for a few more days. The control panel will automatically turn itself off if you set something hot near or on it. For instance, I took a sheet pan out of the oven today and set it on the cooktop, touching the control area. It beeps and then shuts off. I nalso noticed this one when when some food splattered out, and again when I took a pan off the heat (still instinctual from cooking on radiant). First, this cuts down on usable space on the cooktop. Second, I really question if this is a design built for the long term, and weather the controls are going to be able handle being in the line of fire, so to speak.

Also, I remember someone asking if the stainless gets hot and it sure does. Lastly, I don't know if it's part of my broken control board but my convection fan doesn't seem to be working, unless it's so subtle I can't hear it or see it moving parchment paper while it's running.

If you can't tell, I'm very close to waving the white flag and replacing it with something else (leaning back to the Frigidaire as a low cost option, since the GE has some reviews that say the touch controls can be a bit of a pain and lack responsiveness). I'd actually be willing to get up around 3000-3200 for a very good, well performing choice but it remains an elusive target.

Thanks for the additional info Ron. Combined with the info above about pulsing, the fact that the "bridge" function does not appear to be a true bridge, etc., I'm pretty sure I will not be purchasing the KitchenAid.

BTW, do you happen to own an induction-ready griddle, or some other pan that you could use to test the bridge function? You could put a 1" or so deep layer of water in the griddle, then heat it up using the bridge function, and see if it seems to boil/simmer evenly throughout the entire combined burner area, or if there is a "dead spot" between the two bridge burners.

Obviously, no worries if you don't have time to indulge more of my questions, but this is another test I'd be curious to see the results of.

At the moment, I'm either leaning towards not upgrading my range and waiting to see what the next 12 months might bring in terms of new options. Or going with the Bosch, or perhaps even the Wolf, despite it's blue-chipping enamel issue.

Ron:

on the convection fan sound levels: in the long KA slide-in thread, several owners reported that the oven's convection fan is almost inaudible in operation.

Anon:

You may have an alternative to bridge elements for griddles, at least. You might want to take a look at the Demeyere induction suitable 21" x 13" Teppanyaki/Griddle/Plancha. Here's a link for a clearance/seconds sale for $119 at the website of the parent company, Zwilling JA Henckels.

The pan fanatics at Chowhound are currently reporting that this 7 layer griddle largely solves the problem of burner spanning griddles being a lot hotter directly over the burners than in the areas between them. One of the chowhounders reported measuring only a 5°F temperature difference between the areas directly above two gas burners burners and the area above open space between the burners. (Yeah, some chowhounders really do that kind of testing.) Apparently, the unit works equally well over induction, radiant electric and gas burners. If interested, here is a link to the Chowhound thread raving about the great deal on the Demeyere seconds.

Just for the sake of full information, here is an email response that I received from KitchenAid:

"The bridge element combines two element into one element. This means there would not be a gap in between the two, it would all be one heat source. The cooktop does cycle on and off to maintain a constant temperature. Please feel free to contact us if you have any additional questions or concerns."

---

So, according to KitchenAid at least, you should not get a dead spot between the burners of the bridge element. And they confirm that the cooktop pulses on/off to maintain temperature.

I've got a video of the bridge in action. I'm not sure I agree with KA. I'll upload when I get a chance.

Sorry for the vertical video. I am boiling water in a le cruset Dutch oven. It's not long enough to fully cover both burners but for this I think you'll see how the water on the ends are boiling very rapidly on the ends in contact with the burners. It's very clearly not heating the gap. What effect that would have on something like making bacon and pancakes in a griddle is hard to say. The previous post sound like a promising option for a pan that disburses the heat evenly. But as different as the edges are to the middle, I'm skeptical.

Sorry, forgot the link and can't figure out how to edit on my phone:

Thanks so much for posting that, Ron. I agree with you... looks like there is a cold spot between the two burners, contrary to the email from KitchenAid.

Here is not kitchenaid, but a picture of Bora bridge unit that I took yesterday. I believe most bridge unit apart from Bosch, Siemens, and Neff use induction coils that look like this Bora.

I have seen many brands use this octagonal shape, including my Asko unit, Miele, highland for example. From this picture there is a definite clear gap between two burners. I don't know if the gap is varying between makers or not as most would use darker shade of glass that is hard to see through, although you can see a glimpse that it has octagonal shape underneath.

When using cast iron cookware, even for just one hob, you can definitely see the ring pattern on each element. And yes with bridge mode and cast iron cookware, ring patterns would be visible.

However, when everything is warmed up and used at lower heat setting, temperature will be a bit more even. Using multiply cookware or aluminium cookware with magnetic plate would help mitigate heat unevenness.

That picture looks very similar to the Wolf setup that I posted in this thread: http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/4292363/bridge-mode-on-induction-cooktops-how-good-esp-bosch-30-range#18807832.

Yes, there's a gap, but it appears to be pretty small relative to what you would have if there were two circular burners.

I have a entry level Kitchen Aid built in induction cooktop. It is set in over a Whirlpool oven because this is my forever home and I hate pulling the stove out to clean the floor. It works for me.

I chose the cooktop after reviewing clients' experience. It also is safe for my young grandchildren to use. I like the lock feature on too. I purchased the patterned glass to hide minor scratches.

The cooktop makes no noise at all because I use very heavy laminated pots and pans. I just picked up the ones I wanted at Winners. I learned from working in the industry, it's about the pots more than anything. I like cast iron but I don't use them because of scratching. I use parchment paper between my ancient wok and it scorches the paper but at least the top stays clean and not scratched. I also have tried the paper on the surface when flipping in a fry pan. It works great.

I seldom use the higher settings because the residual heat in the pans does the work. I often shut off pasta and veggies early.

My bridge works evenly because the pans are heavy. My blue roaster was a disaster on the bridge and burned on low heat. Proof it's about the pan.

My only concern was that the magnets were damaged with shipping but they were replaced right away. I believe it has more to do with going through customs from the USA than anything else because it seems to be a common repair with CDN clients. Not a deal breaker but wish they would just assemble on site if my hunch is right.

Overall I'm pleased with this purchase. It has given excellent performance. We have used it for 3 years now. I cannot say the same for premium brands that others have purchased or I have used on vacations.

One note is be prepared to learn how to boil a soft egg again. I finally am consistent.

Very informative thread, thank you! I'm looking to switch from gas to induction in my home. My biggest concern is the electronics. Have there been issues with any of the electronic control panels failing? And if so what brand. TIA!