Budget breakdown: Once you establish your budget and start hunting for materials, consider the National Kitchen and Bath Association’s cost breakdown as a guide: Design fees: 4 percent Installation: 20 percent Fixtures: 15 percent Cabinetry and hardware: 16 percent Countertops: 7 percent Lighting and ventilation: 5 percent Flooring: 9 percent Doors and windows: 4 percent Walls and ceilings: 5 percent Faucets and plumbing: 14 percent Other: 1 percent
I love the contrast of this shower niche. This hardworking spot is great for a squeegee. The shorter wall (often called a pony wall) hides the niche from the other parts of the bathroom. Some homeowners don't like to have their shower products on display. Hiding your niche down low like this can be a great solution.
I think odds tend to look better than evens in showers — groups of three, not two. The scale of this niche is excellent. Notice how the shower niche has 11 glass tiles on the back. The glass shelf sits on the seventh tile down from the top — almost two-thirds of the way down. Sometimes this doesn't work out when you get onsite, but here the scale is superb.
FRONTGATE SaveEmail Corner Shower Seat With Basket, Brown - $149 If a custom tile bench would blow your budget, a ready-made corner seat like this one is a no-brainer. In a pinch, you can omit the bench and save up for a custom wood seat later.
At-Six Architecture SaveEmail Grout. I like two grout colors: white and light gray. Black, dark gray and other dark and warm grout tiles can start to accumulate buildup or fade, depending on the local water supply and thinset choice. If the grout is mixed incorrectly or overwashed, the pigment can be wiped away unevenly. Efflorescence happens when grout lightens as salt leaches out, leaving a light, powdery film on the surface. The effect of it on tile installations is nasty. Avoid efflorescence by using premium setting materials like Ardex X32 and Mapei's Grani Rapid. These are pricey products, and not everyone will be able to afford them, but they make a difference.
Bill Fry Construction - Wm. H. Fry Const. Co. SaveEmail Edging details. Understanding how the tiling edges will be addressed is an important step in planning your shower. Looking closely at this photo of the other side of the same shower in the previous image, you can see that the edges where the tile meets the wall and vanity are beveled.
Bill Fry Construction - Wm. H. Fry Const. Co. SaveEmail Mixing and matching tile. This builder has used three different tiles for one gem of a shower. Mixing tiles from different suppliers is a very practical way to reduce your shower renovation costs. Some glass tile can run up to $100 per square foot, whereas a basic ceramic white tile can cost as little as $2 per square foot. Using more expensive glass tile as a simple accent can help you stick to your budget. If you look closely in this photo, you will see that all the different tiles line up evenly. This extra detail takes a little more time and effort but makes a big difference.
Decide on your hose's placement. Before placing the supply line for your handheld unit, get out the hose and positon it on the wall. Where does it look best? This photo shows a great installation. Most hoses look best with 8 to 10 inches of spacing. This seems to create the natural bend and allows the swag to stay constant and not kinked.
Check the shower arm. Make sure your showerhead has a quality arm. Chrome-plated brass is a great option. It looks great and has some weight to it. Many budget fixtures come with chrome-plated plastic; these can fail in time and are far inferior to chrome-plated brass shower arms.
Don't forget about inspectors. If your bathroom is being inspected, you should ask about the approval ratings needed. Sometimes European fixtures come with an approval letter for your inspector. If the inspector asks for it, you'll want to have it handy.
Consider your lighting and tile layout from the start. This is key to a polished-looking shower. Make sure to include lights in your shower, not just around it. Depending on your shower size and makeup, one, two or four lights might look best. When you remove your old tub and tub surround to make room for the new shower, this is a perfect time to check that your light system can be installed like you had planned. Often the ceiling framing above a tub can be easily adjusted to accommodate a lighting plan. Don't tile without the finished light sources in place. Without a light source in place, it is hard to know how any lippage might look. In a shower the lights are often quite close to the wall, which will show every little flaw in a tile installation.
Mabbott Seidel Architecture SaveEmail Measure the bathroom exactly. Draw the finished wall measurements, right down to the 1/8 inch. Most tubs are 60 inches wide, and this is a great width for a shower. The depth is the kicker. Aim for at least 32 to 34 inches from the finished tile wall to the future glass shower door. You will also need to to have a finished ceiling height of 80 inches minimum and a shower that's at least 30 by 30 inches to comply with the National Kitchen & Bath Association's guidelines for bathrooms. If you decide to plan for a bench, make sure it doesn't crowd this space of 30 by 30 inches minimum. Record the toilet location. A distance of 15 to 18 inches from the the center of the toilet to the glass on the new shower door tends to be comfortable.
Dyer Grimes Architecture SaveEmail The angular nature of this pattern creates a dynamic energy, which can be perfect for accent walls but a little overwhelming if used on too large a surface. Where to use a herringbone layout: In a traditional or transitional kitchen (especially in classic white on white), or with a long, thin tile to form a powerful accent anywhere.
In the case of a shower stall floor, the additional grout can be a benefit, as it helps create a less slippery surface. In general, mosaic makes a great counterpoint to larger tiles, because the dramatic shift in scale makes the mismatch clearly intentional. (Here a hexagonal mosaic beautifully contrasts oversize Corian planks.) When to use a mosaic layout: To highlight an accent wall, on a shower floor or lining a niche.
John Lum Architecture, Inc. AIA SaveEmail Mosaics While the word “mosaic” may bring to mind complex forms that create lively patterns and images, in design terms a mosaic is simply any small tile in a repeated shape (or set of shapes), typically attached in small sheets to matting for easy installation. A very common example is a 1-inch by 1-inch square, although endless shapes and patterns are available.
Stacked This is the simplest layout. In a stacked pattern, the tiles are aligned to form a basic repeating grid. This results in a modern look that works well with clean shapes and crisp angles, and plays against the organic forms of exotic woods. Where to use a stacked layout: In a modern space with rectilinear forms, especially with a beveled-edge tile or bright grout, which emphasizes the Zen-like simplicity.
Large Brick An oversize brick pattern is not technically different from a standard brick, but the effect can be different, especially with rich stone tiles. Here the pattern helps minimize the visual impact of the grout, allowing the tiles to have a more seamless appearance. When to use a large brick layout: When you want oversize tiles to appear as a continuous plane of stunning unbroken material. Tip: Use color-matched grout to enhance the effect.
Vertical Brick Choosing a brick pattern but orienting it vertically takes the widening effect and rotates it, emphasizing the height of a space instead. It also adds a touch of contemporary appeal by being a little unexpected but still classic, for a fun twist that isn’t too trendy. When to use a vertical brick pattern: To lift the ceiling height, such as in a compact bathroom.
A brick layout can look especially stylish when paired with a contrasting grout color, such as gray grout with white tile, emphasizing the geometric pattern. Where to use a brick pattern: Anywhere, but especially in spaces where one simple tile is used throughout.
Brick This is the classic layout for subway tile. In a brick pattern, each row of tiles is typically offset by half a tile width, which results in long, horizontal lines that can subtly widen a room. It’s a timeless layout that can work for any rectangular tile, making it a great option for virtually any s
Whitehead suggests putting the fan and lighting on separate switches. “I don't want the fan to go on automatically every time I go in to wash my hands,” he says. Putting each light source — or a logical combination of light sources — on different switches allows you to choose what you want lit when. Tip: If you use recessed cans over the sink, make sure they are on a different switch than your task lighting, as Anderson did.
Sconces on large mirrors at the sink vanities now offer functional task lighting. Recessed cans on dimmers provide ambient light for whatever mood is desired. Dimmers are especially useful in the tub area, where relaxation and romance are priorities. Wall sconces offer additional ambient and decorative light.
A pendant fixture with a translucent shade can be a source of both decorative and ambient light.
If you enjoy art in your bathroom, accent lighting will show it off best. Recessed directional lights provide focused illumination for each piece of art — or, in this case, for an alcove dedicated to a sculptural bouquet of flowers.
Task lighting wattage in the powder room. Task lights in powder rooms can have much less wattage (think 45-watt range), as this is not a space where anyone will be performing the morning ritual. Lower wattage provides a softer, relaxing ambience for guests. Find a color temperature that makes the room feel inviting and illuminates guests in the most attractive way.
Wattage for task lighting. “In the master or guest bathrooms, use fixtures that provide 75 to 100 watts' worth of illumination," Whitehead recommends. “You can get these wattage equivalents in a 24- to 26-watt compact fluorescent or 20- to 25-watt LED.”
Tip: Avoid adding a light above the mirror. That includes recessed lighting in the ceiling. “That would throw a strong light onto your forehead and cast deep shadows below your eyes, nose and chin,” Whitehead says. “Not only is this light ineffective for shaving or applying makeup, it can visually age you by 10 years. People should look their best when they look at their reflection.” Proper lighting in the bathroom will make you feel better about yourself and promote confidence throughout your day.
Task Lighting This is the light by which you can best see yourself. “Proper task lighting at the mirror is important,” says lighting designer Randall Whitehead. He recommends using a pair of sconces mounted at eye level on either side of the mirror to provide shadowless illumination. This creates the best scenario for makeup application, shaving, tooth care and so on.
9. Proper lighting. Good lighting is vital in a bathroom, and I prefer it via natural daylight — both for energy efficiency’s sake as well as aesthetics. The window above the vanity here is high enough to allow light in without offering a peep show, so light-blocking window treatments aren’t needed. There is also a large window in the shower, with privacy glass, that brings in plenty of sunshine. The wall sconces and a couple of ceiling fixtures provide ample lighting after the sun goes down.
Quartz is my go-to bathroom vanity-top material, because of the low upkeep required to keep it looking good.
2. Single-handle or touchless faucet and a built-in soap dispenser. OK, confession time: I’m a bit of a germaphobe, so I prefer a single-handle faucet that I can easily turn on and adjust without having to twist multiple knobs. I recently installed a touchless faucet in my kitchen, which has me thinking that might be a good way to go in the bathroom as well. Not surprisingly, I go through lots of hand soap, so I like having a built-in soap dispenser right next to the bathroom faucet, attached to a gadget that allows me to pull soap from an economy-size bottle underneath the sink. This enables me and my family to go an astoundingly long period of time between refills.
Whether you go for one or two, I’m a huge fan of undermounted sinks (a sink that is attached at the underside of the countertop, so there’s no raised sink rim). It does require you to use a water-resistant — and therefore more expensive — material for your counter, such as quartz, solid surface, natural stone or concrete, but it makes cleanup so much easier because there’s no lip to trap grime and gunk.
No matter what changes you make in your home, choosing quality items will always make a big impact. In nearly every article about refreshing your home, throw pillows are mentioned. But what you may not consider is that pillows stuffed with inorganic inserts such as Polyfil look much different than a pillow filled with down or cotton blend. A pillow with a quality insert sits better on your furnishings, is more comfortable to lay your head on, and lasts far longer than an inexpensive one. Acrylic inserts tend to get misshapen and lumpy very quickly and are not really comfortable to lean against. Switching out your pillows is a relatively inexpensive way to add some glamour to your home, but the difference between a good-quality insert and a bad-quality insert is readily noticeable. Compare them side by side, and you’ll see what I mean.
A shower or tub drain probably isn’t something you would put into the luxury category. And yet, functional things made aesthetically pleasing are the absolute definition of luxury, because they are beautiful for no other reason than they can be. Replacing your current drain cover with a decorative model, such as these from Designer Drains, can make even the blandest shower look a little fancier.
I love this pair of lime-green garden seats with the navy-blue cushions on the sofa. I admit my partiality to lime green and navy — the entry hall of our first house had a Schumacher lime-green and navy wallpaper, which may sound garish but was absolutely fantastic. (And I must add that they’re the colors of the Seattle Seahawks. Go Hawks!)
Garden seats can also be a great solution for the shower — especially if you don’t have a built-in seat. It also gives you a surface for soaps, brushes or washcloths. And what could be prettier and more compatible with the wet environment of a shower than something made for the garden?
Wall-mounted faucets. Take care when placing a wall-mounted faucet to make sure it will work together with your sink. The distance the water spout projects will determine whether the two will be compatible. This can be more of an issue with a double sink.
A sliding barn-style door means the space isn’t impeded the way it would be by a regular door that would swing into it. A large mirror on the inside (and outside) helps visually double the room. Amorello was also mindful of the room’s many sharp corners and right angles. “I tried to subliminally throw in circles when possible,” she says. “It’s my way of softening it up a bit.” Before, the lighting came from a light and fan and a three-bulb fixture over the sink. Four barn-light fixtures and a fan with two LED lights now brighten the space just enough.
ushing the shower farther under the eave and installing a wall-hung toilet opened up this corner. “With a wall-hung toilet, you can buy yourself 10 or 11 inches without changing the wall,” she says. “Plus, it allows you to sweep and clean under the toilet, which is a dream for anyone in charge of bathroom cleaning.” For just a bit more room, she recessed the toilet paper holder. “It’s really a game of fractions of inches,” she says.
The protruding shower-tub combo crowded the toilet into the corner.
The wall-mounted faucets save space and make cleaning easier. Amorello took round medicine cabinets intended to be surface mounted and recessed them into the wall.
AFTER: With the wall now gone, and a foot of space gained, Amorello was able to add a second sink and an extended custom vanity with better navigation into the corner. She designed raised espresso-stained oak cabinets that allow for storage underneath and give the appearance of more space. “You can see all the way to the back while standing in the shower, which makes the room feel bigger,” she says. Porcelain tile that looks like reclaimed wood covers the wall above the vanity, which is topped with a slab of diorite, a natural stone. Amorello chose it for its color and thickness — 1 5/8 inches versus the standard 1 3/16 inches. After those selections, she felt the space was getting a bit too gray on gray on gray. A trip to a local architectural salvage seller produced a 2-by-8 board that she treated with mineral oil. She used this to top the storage cabinet in the corner, adding warmth.
BEFORE: Beadboard wainscoting, cultured marble, Formica and linoleum tiles on the floor weren’t materials that made Amorello happy. “Everything was plastic on plastic on plastic,” she says. And the crowded layout made a second sink impractical and created a narrow corner for storage. “You had to suck it in to grab a towel off the shelf,” she says.
FTER: Removing the 5-foot shower-tub combo and its wall and installing a 4-foot shower allowed Amorello to push the space farther back under the eave. That made the toilet area less crowded and allowed for a shower bench. An HVAC duct runs underneath the bench, warming it whenever the heat is turned on. Frameless glass creates the appearance of more room. The glass is higher than 80 inches, so the air in the shower doesn’t get as cold as it would if the glass were the standard 72 inches. Meanwhile, installing a trench drain in the shower meant Amorello didn’t need a threshold. This allowed her to run the large-format tiles seamlessly. “It tricks your eye into feeling like the space is bigger,” she says. Plus, the 2-foot by 2-foot porcelain tiles meant fewer grout lines for a less busy look, and the diagonal pattern gives a visual impression that the space is stretching out.
is was a classic case of the shoemaker’s kids going barefoot. Robin Amorello spent eight years designing other people’s master bathrooms, while the one she shares with her husband, Joseph, went untouched. An angled ceiling meant the large one-piece bathtub-shower combination had to be installed in an awkward spot that crowded the toilet. That created a barely functional alcove that prevented the addition of a second sink. “It was badly designed from day one,” she says. But about a year ago Amorello finally found time to be her own client. She gutted the 75-square-foot bathroom and swapped the shower-tub combo for a shower, which freed up space for an additional sink. She wall-mounted the toilet and faucets for a roomier feel and to make cleaning easier. She also raised the vanity and recessed the medicine cabinets and even the toilet paper holder. “In the end it was about carving out inches here and there,” she says. by Robin Amorello, CKD CAPS - Atmoscaper Design Robin Amorello, CKD CAPS - Atmoscaper Design SaveEmail BEFORE: The previous one-piece shower-tub combo ended at the sloped ceiling, resulting in the cramped arrangement. “There was just empty, unused space wasted behin...
The clear glass, wall-mounted vanity and toilet, and recessed wall cabinet save space and give the room a more open feeling.
AFTER: In the new configuration, the designers angled the steam shower stall’s glass wall to make room for a large bench. This provides enough room for stretching out and relaxing during a steam. (See the plans below to get a better feel for the layout.) “There is a grass-cloth-like texture to the floor tiles,” Johnson says. Combined with the warm wood on the vanity, the tiles keep the room from looking too stark and slick. Using large-format tiles and extending them up the shower stall divider made the room feel larger; a small-scale tile would have felt too busy. Wall paint: Wish AF-680, Benjamin Moore; tile: Porcelanosa; mirror: Roburn
BEFORE: The master bath was uninspiring.
Lee Kimball SaveEmail AFTER: Just out of view to the right here is a soaking tub (see the plans below). The recessed cabinet, clean lines and vessel sink create a streamlined, open look. The bamboo shelf adds a warm organic element to the contemporary room. Tip: A wall-mounted toilet is a space saver, as the tank is behind the wall. Removing the flush panel provides access to the plumbing.
BEFORE: Clunky cabinets and fixtures placed close together once gave the bathroom a cramped feeling.
Select a vanity with one shelf. Pedestal design has gotten smarter. Even a pedestal style with one shelf can hold towels or a basket for toilet paper. I personally love the way fresh, clean towels look folded neatly in a bathroom.
Install a trough sink. The narrow, clean styling of a trough sink is a good-looking space solution. Trough sinks have a low profile. When wall mounted, they free up floor space as well for storage or foot traffic.
Michael Goodsmith Design SaveEmail 9. Mount the towel bar on a door. Where can I put my towels? I wish I had a nickel for every time I heard that question. When space is at a minimum, mounting a towel bar on the shower door keeps towels handy. You might need to store the bulk of your towels in a nearby linen closet, but having that one towel close by to dry off with is essential.
Expand the mirror. In the tightest spaces, having a mirror stretch across the wall instead of just the vanity can enable two people to use it at once. In less-than-ideal space conditions, every inch helps.
Use a large-scale pattern. A large-scale pattern, like this wide stripe, can trick the eye into seeing expanded space. The square footage might stay the same, but the bathroom will feel bigger.
Extend the counter over the toilet. This banjo-style arrangement can be done with stone or a wood slab. The extended counter creates just enough space for a few needed items. Toilet placement is not affected, and the look is minimalist and clean.
Round the vanity. Tight spaces can make sharp corners hip hazards. If the corners of a vanity would get in the way, opt for a rounded style. Yes, a round vanity can work in a square space. No more bruised hips!
Using downlights over the vanity without adding lights on the side. Standing directly under a downlight, without any light at the sides of the face, creates exaggerated and unflattering shadows. In the bathroom, using a downlight over the sink is fine to accent the expensive polished nickel faucet you've specified, but it's insufficient for tasks like shaving, tweezing, and applying makeup. For this, we need light at the sides of the mirror at eye level to minimize shadows and provide even distribution. This can be achieved with sconces flanking the mirror.
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