Galley Kitchen and Small Galley Pantry around corner
Example of a mid-sized classic galley dark wood floor eat-in kitchen design in San Francisco with a double-bowl sink, white backsplash, stainless steel appliances, no island, recessed-panel cabinets, beige cabinets, granite countertops and porcelain backsplash

The Meryton Table is inspired by French country kitchens of the past. The table features a sturdy planked top and turned legs. Tabletop is available in our classic Espresso or Distressed White finish. Optional hammered steel corner brackets in Black or Copper can be added. Light assembly required (comes assembled for local pickup). All of our tables are handcrafted from solid wood in our woodworking shop in Fort Mill, South Carolina. Our furniture is finished with a multi-step process of distressing and hand-applying varnish to give each piece the look of a cherished antique. Each of our works showcase the natural characteristics of wood, including variations in color, mineral streaks, knots and burls. In addition, our finishing process highlights the organic texture of wood with its pores, ridges, slits and grooves; each piece is a tactile work of art that is truly meant to be appreciated by touch. Every decorative bracket is made from steel, hand-cut and meticulously hammered to create a one-of-a-kind rustic accent for our wood furniture. Available for local pickup or shipment within 5-7 business days. DIMENSIONS: Overall: 72" long x 36" wide x 30" high Tabletop: 1.5" thick Apron: 3.5" high Weight: 132 pounds CARE AND MAINTENANCE: Dust with a soft, dry lint-free cloth. Soak up any water immediately with a soft, dry cloth. Avoid the use of harsh chemicals or abrasive cleaners. Photo Credit: Michael Blevins

Summer herbs | Lore Patterson
Photo of a mid-sized rustic landscaping in Seattle.

Alise O'Brien Photography
Inspiration for a coastal entryway remodel in St Louis

This client came to us looking for a space that would allow their children a place to hang out while still feeling at home. The versatility of finished concrete flooring works well to adapt to a variety of home styles, and works seamlessly with this Craftsman-style home. We worked with the client to decide that a darker reactive stain would really make the space feel warm, inviting, and comfortable. The look and feel of the floor with this stain selection would be similar to the pictures they provided of the look they were targeting when we started the selection process. The clients really embraced the existing cracks in the concrete, and thought they exhibited the character of the house – and we agree. When our team works on residential projects, it is imperative that we keep everything as clean and mess-free as possible for the client. For this reason, our first step was to apply RAM Board throughout the house where our equipment would be traveling. Tape and 24″ plastic were also applied to the walls of the basement to protect them. The original floor was rather new concrete with some cracks. Our team started by filling the cracks with a patching product. The grinding process then began, concrete reactive stain was applied in the color Wenge Wood, and then the floor was sealed with our two step concrete densification and stain-guard process. The 5 step polishing process was finished by bringing the floor to a 800-grit level. We were excited to see how the space came together after the rest of construction, which was overseen by the contractor Arbor Homes, was complete. View the gallery below to take a look!

Our client in the villager of Pembury was feeling really deflated after having a Slate Patio laid adjacent to the full length of her house, however the builder had not applied the sealer correctly creating a mess which ruined the appearance of the stone. Unfortunately, it is not that unusual to be contacted about this sort of situation, applying a sealer is not as easy as manufactures make out. There are lots of factors to consider, choosing the right sealer, is the stone damp, how do you know if you have applied too much, and it often catches tradesmen out. I was able to reassure them that with the right combination of products and equipment the problem could be rectified. The first job was to strip off the old sealer which was done using a product called Tile Doctor Remove and Go. The name of this product pretty much says it all and once applied to the stone it is left to soak in for ten to twenty minutes before being scrubbed in with a rotary machine fitted with an abrasive burnishing pad. Tile Doctor Remove and Go is a multi-purpose stripper which will remove most coatings and sealers, including epoxy grout haze which is another common problem we encounter when tradesmen have not cleaned up properly after grouting. It is also good for removing heavy build ups of grease. I used several burnishing pads of different grits going from coarse to smooth on this patio, rinsing and extracting the soil after each pad. It was a large area, so this process took up most of the day on its own, fortunately I use a van mounted high pressure cleaning and extraction system to remove the soil which is very efficient and leaves the stone bright clean and reasonably dry afterwards. This ensures the process can be carried out with minimal mess. It was a nice warm summers day and although cloudy we didn’t get any rain overnight, so after checking the forecast I was able to return the next day and apply a fresh sealer to the Slate. My client wanted a natural look, so I used Tile Doctor Ultra Seal. This product is a no-sheen, natural-look, impregnating sealer which is formulated to provide maximum stain protection. These impregnating sealers work by penetrating the stone, occupying its pores, and thus preventing dirt from residing there. The client was so happy and relieved to see the results on what a very expensive patio and commented she was eager to get the first barbecue of the season underway. We recommended that a regular with the jet wash should keep the patio in good condition and in a few years time we could return to reapply the sealer for them. Michael Conlon South Kent Tile Doctor

I was recently contacted by a client who had just moved into a large Victorian property in the West Cheshire village of Tarvin about renovating their Victorian tiled hallway. Apparently, the floor was in good condition, and it would just be a case of removing what was left of the old sealer, deep cleaning the tiles and then applying a fresh seal. Unless the floor has been regularly maintained with the same sealer it’s important to remove all traces of old sealers before applying fresh. Victorian Hallway Before Cleaning Tarvin Cheshire A lot of the work we do at Tile Doctor can be a lot more involved, often requiring the sourcing of matching replacement tiles and rebuilding large sections of tiled flooring so straight forward clean and seal job is always welcome. To remove what was left of the sealer and the ingrained dirt from the pores of the Victorian tile I dressed the floor with a strong dilution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean. On this occasion I used a 1:3 dilution with water and applied it to the floor with a mop. I left it to soak into the tile for fifteen minutes before scrubbing so it could get to work breaking down the old sealer. During this time, I set up a weighted floor buffer and fitted a black buffing pad, these pads are designed for scrubbing hard floors and lifting out the dirt. I applied a little water as required during this process to ensure the pad was lubricated. Shortly the cleaning solution darkened as the old sealer and dirt was released from the tile. The soil was rinsed away with water and then removed using a wet vacuum. Once clear the floor was inspected and the process repeated until I was satisfied it was as clean as it could be and free of sealer. I left the floor to dry off overnight and returned the next day to apply a new sealer. Before doing so however I like to use a damp meter to take moisture readings from the floor. This is needed to ensure it is dry enough to seal which is important as any moisture in the tile can affect the sealer and lead to an inconsistent finish. To seal I started with the application of a single coat of Tile Doctor Colour Grow which is a colour intensifying breathable impregnator that soaks into the tile improving appearance and adding protection from within. Any excess sealant was removed by wiping the floor with a microfibre cloth and then it was left to dry for an hour. This was followed with four coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go Extra which is an acrylic breathable sealer which adds a pleasing subtle shine to the tile. This is an important feature when choosing a sealer for old floors where moisture needs to be allowed to rise through the tile, otherwise it can become trapped under the floor and reach out to the walls causing rising damp. The customer was very happy with the revamped hallway which made the house a lot brighter and welcoming. Before closing I should mention that for aftercare cleaning I recommend Tile Doctor Neutral cleaner which is designed for the daily cleaning for sealed tiles, this is important as most domestic supermarket cleaners are simply too strong and can prematurely erode the sealer. Alastair Robb West Cheshire Tile Doctor

Mid-sized elegant l-shaped open concept kitchen photo in Denver with an integrated sink, medium tone wood cabinets, granite countertops, beige backsplash, ceramic backsplash, stainless steel appliances and an island

Stucco is a popular building material that is mainly used in residential exterior siding. It is a combination of sand, Portland cement, limestone and sometimes water. Plaster can be applied to wood, block and concrete. When applying stucco to wood framing, it is usually attached to a wire lath that is attached to the structural framing. Wood framing must be protected by a water resistant moisture barrier such as, asphalt building paper or different types of building wraps before the wire lath and stucco are applied. New stucco should cure for thirty days before prime and paint are applied. A common problem found in stucco due to the trapped moisture that migrates towards the stucco surface, it sometimes carries mineral deposits within it. This can cause a discoloration and sometimes adhesion problems. New stucco can sometimes develop cracks during the curing process. As water is eliminated and the stucco hardens, hairline cracks tend to occur. Once you apply the primer and paint with a paint roller it typically fills the narrow cracks. The roller helps push the paint into the cracks. Larger stucco cracks require a stucco patch filler to bridge the gap. When painting new you must include a primer coat and one or two finishing coats. All paints and primers should be used for exterior surfaces.

We were contacted by a customer in West Kirby who needed help renovating a Victorian tiled hallway in a house they had just purchased. Kirby is a desirable seaside location North of Heswall that expanded with the arrival of the railway in 1848. The railway brought a demand for property and so it’s not unusual to find housing stock in this area dating back to the Victorian era. The Victorian tiles at this property appear to have been neglected by the previous owner and were now looking very dull and marked by paint from decorating; all the colours looked washed out and the floor was now looking very unappealing. The good news however is that this problem is not uncommon and with a deep clean and a fresh sealer applied it can be transformed. I gave the owner a quote which was accepted a date agreed for my return to do the work. On the first day the floor was sprayed with a neat solution of Tile Doctor Remove and Go which is a powerful alkaline cleaning and stripping agent used to remove old seals and paint. The solution was left to dwell for about twenty minutes so it could soak in and get to work. It was then scrubbed into the tiles using a coarse 200-grit pad fitted to a heavy buffing machine. Water was then added to the floor for lubrication and the soils released from the pores of the tile during scrubbing was removed by with a wet vacuum. To treat the stubborn paint stains and remains of what I suspect was carpet adhesive a hand scraper and wire brush was used, this was made easier by the Remove and Go which had softened the paint etc. The next stage was to give the Victorian tiles a mild acid wash using Acid Gel which is applied to the floor, scrubbed in, and rinsed off with a little water then extracted using the wet vacuum. We always recommend an acid wash for old floors like these as it will counter any efflorescent salts resident in the tiles and helps to remove other mineral contaminates and old grout that can mask the true beauty of the tiles. I left the tiles to dry out for two days before returning to apply the sealer, first checking it was dry by testing for moisture in various places with an electronic damp tester. It’s not a good idea to apply a sealer to a damp floor so we always check first. Satisfied the floor was dry, I started applying a coat of Tile Doctor Colour Grow which is a colour enhancing impregnating sealer that helps to bring out the true colours in the tile. This was allowed to dry for thirty minutes and then followed up five coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go Extra which is a breathable sealer that leaves a lovely satin finish and builds on the protection. Once done the Victorian hallway tiles looked so much cleaner and healthier. It was quite a transformation and the new sealer had given the floor a nice low sheen shine which the customer was very happy with. For aftercare cleaning I left them with a bottle of Tile Doctor Neutral Cleaner which is specially formulated for cleaning sealed tiles. We don’t recommend tile cleaning products you find on supermarket shelves as the are usually too strong and can strip a sealer off the floor prematurely. If your choosing another product to clean your floor always read the label to make sure its compatible. Andrew Robb Merseyside Tile Doctor

These photos are of a four-year-old Limestone kitchen floor at a property in Boughton that the customer was finding hard to keep clean and maintain a shine. Part of the problem was he owned two dogs and we often warn about the problems of dog urine on sealed tile and stone due to it being high in nitrogen. On my initial visit I was able to ascertain that the sealer had almost completely worn off, leaving the stone vulnerable to dirt becoming ingrained into the pores of the stone. I come across this problem a lot, in my experience when stone floors are installed by tilers, they generally apply a single coat of sealant which wears off over time, and as discussed earlier can be prematurely degraded by strong chemicals. My quote to renovate the Limestone floor was accepted and included a deep clean to the stone and grout, stone polish and then re-seal. I arrived on site on the arranged date and began by scrubbing all the grout lines with Tile Doctor grout brushes and a 3:1 dilution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean. I then moved on to a small handheld polishing machine to clean around the tile edges using 800 and 1500 grit diamond encrusted burnishing pad to achieve a deep clean. The process was then repeated throughout the rest of the area using larger 17” burnishing pads fitted to a floor polishing machine. The burnishing pads I used come in a set of four starting with 400-grit and moving up to 800, 1500 and 3000 grit, after each pad is applied the floor is rinsed with water and the soil extracted with a wet vacuum. It took me much of the day to complete this stage of the renovation and the floor was still damp so once done I left for the day, allowing the floor to dry off overnight. I returned the following day to complete the final polish using the 3000-grit burnishing pad, this gave a high polished finish which the customer had requested. This last pad is applied dry with only a little water splashed onto the tile, a process we call a spray burnish. The floor was then sealed with three applications of Tile Doctor Ultra Seal Sealant to protect the newly restored and polished tiles. Ultra-Seal is a penetrating sealer that soaks into those recently cleaned pores in the stone, occupying the space and preventing any dirt from becoming ingrained there. It’s also a natural look sealer so it doesn’t change the colour of the stone in anyway and is almost indetectable once applied. “Hard work from Philip has left us with a kitchen floor brought back to life – cleaned and sealed in little over 24 hours – brilliant job – Thanks” Before leaving I gave the customer some tips on maintenance and a complimentary bottle of Tile Doctor Stone Soap to enable him to keep the floor looking its best, this product works well with the sealant we applied and is PH neutral so won’t degrade the new sealer. Phil Vissian Northamptonshire Tile Doctor

Recently it seems I am getting called out to an increasing number of new builds to sort out patchy grout issues. The reason why there have been so many issues arising is a bit of a mystery, but I put it down to a combination of things like poor quality grout, rushed installations, wet subfloors and the use of different batches. This recently built house in the village of Darton is a great example and in this case, I suspect two different batches of the same grout had been applied. Darton by the way is a small village in the Borough of Barnsley. Invariably these problems are picked up by the new owner on their snagging list, with the tiler long gone and the builder keen to get their final payment it is always a tricky situation to resolve. I find the best solution is to apply a Tile Doctor Grout Colourant, it’s a much quicker process than removing the old grout and replacing with new. Most new homeowners would not appreciate us ripping up their brand-new rooms and generating lots of dust in the process! Also, by using the Tile Doctor Grout Colourant it adds a barrier of the grout preventing dirt from discolouring it further down the line. Even though the house was brand new, the Porcelain Tiled floor was not looking great. The client was happy for me to go ahead and would take up the bill with the housebuilder. I first pre-treated it with Tile Doctors Grout Colourant Pre-Treatment. This removes any contamination from the grout which might affect the adhesion of the colourant and being an acid, it also etches the surface of the grout to ensure a superior bond with the colourant. The client chose our Light Grey colour which is one of 10 colours we offer. Once the pre-treatment had been applied, scrubbed, rinsed, and vacuumed away the floor was left to dry. Once dry we started applying the colourant, this is done with a small brush (a toothbrush is ideal) carefully scrubbing colourant into each grout joint and wiping off any excess that gets on the tiles before it is able to dry. Once complete the newly coloured grout lines totally transformed the floor and because the grout colorant is epoxy based the grout lines will stay stain free and never get dirty. The porcelain tiles were factory sealed so there is no need to apply a seal to the floor. I recommended the use of Tile Doctor Neutral Tile Cleaner to keep the floor in the best condition. It is pH neutral so is far less harsh on the surface than the everyday household cleaners available. It has a minty fragrance and is mild enough to use daily. They were very happy that the floor now looked as it should have from the start and was the finishing touch to their beautiful new home. Matthew Lovett South Yorkshire Tile Doctor

This Multi-Coloured Slate floor looks nice in the Kitchen of this property in Hythe, however due to the riven surface of the tile and the deep grout lines my customer had struggled to keep it clean. Additionally, the Slate has lost all of its lustre over the years since it had been installed and it was now due a deep clean and reseal. The combination of durability and price makes Slate a popular choice for floor covering, it is also available in a number of colours, ranging from plain black to a more diverse array of shades. Like any natural stone floor though it need sealing to keep the dirt out of the pores of the stone however sealers wear off with use Hythe by the way is a lovely medieval coastal market town with its own beach on the edge of Romney Marsh and close to Folkestone. Before starting I removed the kickboards underneath the kitchen units and protected the exposed woodwork with a thin film. To deep clean the Slate floor and remove any remaining sealer I applied Tile Doctor Remove and Go and left it to soak in for ten minutes before scrubbing it in with a light carbide brush. As well as removing the old sealer this process releases the dirt from the pores of the stone and brings it to the surface where it can be extracted. I have probably mentioned this before, but I’ve invested in a powerful van mounted pressure extraction system for removing the dirt, old sealer and emulsified soils released from the stone. The system works by applying water at high pressure on the floor via a spinner tool and then simultaneously extracts the waste under suction back to a grey water tank on the van. From the customers point of view, it makes light work of cleaning the floor and more importantly leaves the floor dry and leaves no mess. Having a dry floor at this stage is important as it means I can usually seal the floor on the same day. Its not a good idea to apply a sealer to damp floor as it will affect the way it cures and lead to an undesirable finish. The way to make sure the floor its dry is to use a moisture meter and take readings in several places around the floor. You can use an air mover to improve drying times however older floors can take a very long time to dry and for those I tend to book another day to apply the sealer. With the floor dry I set about applying the first of two coats of Tile Doctor X-Tra Seal which provides both a hardwearing sheen to the slate as well as enhancing its natural colourings. It has strong water repellency characteristics which makes it ideal for use in a kitchen where spillages are quite common. This was quite a small kitchen, so the work was completed in one day. My client was amazed at the transformation and grateful for our advice on continued maintenance which for this floor I recommended the use of Tile Doctor Stone Soap for daily cleaning. Michael Conlon South Kent Tile Doctor

Charlie Cho Designed by Gabriela Eisenhart and Holly Conlan
Enclosed dining room - mid-sized modern dark wood floor enclosed dining room idea in Los Angeles with white walls and no fireplace

Applied moulding TV wall for this main floor family room.
Family room - mid-sized transitional open concept vinyl floor and brown floor family room idea in Minneapolis with gray walls, a standard fireplace, a tile fireplace and a wall-mounted tv

ScottHargisPhoto.com
Mid-sized trendy formal and enclosed dark wood floor living room photo in San Francisco with gray walls, no fireplace and a media wall

Example of a large classic l-shaped ceramic tile eat-in kitchen design in Houston with raised-panel cabinets, dark wood cabinets, granite countertops, stainless steel appliances and an island

Hardwood floors stained in an espresso color to match the existing first floors created warmth and tied the house together. The banisters also comprised the espresso finish and the white pickets gave a craftsman feel. White trim finished the look and provided the charm they desired. Photos courtesy of John Gussman, Doubleclick Productions

First Floor Front Parlor looking out to street Diane Anton Photography
Transitional living room photo in Boston