FINISH: PRIMED The advantages of this approach – of this type of interior door finish – are fairly obvious. Pick a color, any color that suits your projects best. Mix and apply. Re- coat whenever you feel it is necessary to do so. Touch it up. It gives you, the proud owner of these interior doors, complete freedom of choice, and the significant savings, especially where it comes to bulk orders, can be a true source of joy. As Kurt Vonnegut mentions in one of his novels (Bluebeard, unless I’m mistaken … check it out when you get a chance), the thrill of laying on colors is a large part of the artist’s professional satisfaction. In other words, a keen pleasure. When back in the remote past visual arts became a field dominated by professionals rather than hobbyists, the main problem of “just laying on paint” became obvious: you can’t. The medium of choice back then was egg tempera, a permanent, fast-drying substance consisting of colored pigments mixed with a water-soluble binder medium, usually glutinous material such as egg yolk. Portraits and ornaments were executed in this medium, and the wood panel was the surface of choice. One of tempera’s interesting features is that it is not as easily absorbed by wood as other mediums. Some sort of primer was necessary, of course, but pretty much any substance that dried evenly could be used. The drawbacks of tempera, or pintura al temple, as the Spanish call it, only became obvious with the advent of the Renaissance, when the leading representatives of the trade turned to oil (and interior doors suddenly became a great deal less crude, but that’s a story for another day). Oil painting is the process of “painting with pigments with a medium of drying oil as the binder.” Commonly used types include linseed (highly preferable in art, though not necessarily in interior doors, mind you), poppy seed, walnut, and safflower. Today, five hundred years later, it is safe to say that oil is more versatile than pintura al temple – by orders of magnitude. Specifically, the contrasts achieved through the former are much greater, the darks are far deeper, and three- dimensional, highly realistic images are much easier to achieve. Next time you visit a museum, take a closer look at pintura al temple portraits. All of them, without exception, come off as a bit “flat” as opposed to their latter-day counterparts. Also, where glazing is concerned … Glazing: a painting technique in which a transparent layer, with just a touch of pigment, is laid over a previously painted surface, allowing light to travel through the glaze and be reflected back off of the opaque layer below. Gentle shadows, subtle changes of color, smooth transitions – all these can be achieved through glazing, which was used by all artists up until the middle of the Nineteenth Century, when artist tubes were invented, revolutionizing the field, and other techniques began to be explored. Tempera enthusiasts (it takes all kinds to make a world) will assure you that glazing is not just possible in pintura al temple but is actually the basis of the whole enterprise. Well, what are you going to do? They’re enthusiasts. Anyway, la peinture à l'huile, as the French call it, re-introduced the ancient problem of most surface’s propensity to absorb dipingere, as the Italians call the stuff. Wood or canvas, it is all the same: you’re not going to get very far without a good primer. Experiments were conducted, and soon rabbit skin glue emerged as the least expensive and most effective solution. It was easy to apply. It dried evenly. It made the application of the l’huile stuff on top of it a walk in the park. There were drawbacks. Today, rabbit skin glue is considered to be a major cause of cracking by most modern conservators. (Remember, when you visited the Metropolitan Museum of Art – and did you see those interior doors? … some of them are quite something … - most “old masters” pictures are completely covered with a cobweb of cracks? There you go). Because the glue is hygroscopic, it continually absorbs moisture from the atmosphere, causing the glue to swell and shrink as ambient humidity levels change. Over many humidity cycles, this repeated flexing causes the brittle oily layers to crack. To combat this problem, modern primers are made of acrylic materials which are guaranteed not to cause any damage to the dipingere. No bubbling, no cracks. Your interior doors are safe.

Ever notice how your iron fence looks more rust than paint after another brutal Chicago winter? That is usually the moment homeowners start searching for a painting contractor who actually understands metal - not just someone who will brush a coat of black paint over active corrosion and call it done. At Windy City Painters, iron fence restoration is one of our most requested services on the North Side and Near West Side, and for good reason. These fences are old, they are beautiful, and they deserve a proper finish system. PROJECT OVERVIEW This project involved a full ornamental iron fence on a North Side greystone property. The fence was original to the building - likely installed in the 1910s or 1920s - and had gone through multiple paint cycles without any rust conversion work. By the time Windy City Painters arrived, the horizontal rails showed active pitting, the vertical spindles had surface rust under lifting paint, and two corner posts had minor joint separation. The homeowner wanted the fence restored to a sharp satin black finish that would hold through multiple Chicago winters. MATERIALS AND PRODUCTS Ospho Rust Converter - phosphoric acid formula that chemically neutralizes iron oxide and converts it to iron phosphate, a stable paintable surface. Used on all pitted and actively corroded areas before primer application. Rust-Oleum DTM Rust-Inhibitive Primer - direct-to-metal primer that bonds to both converted rust zones and bare metal, blocking moisture intrusion at the substrate level. Sherwin-Williams DTM Acrylic Topcoat - flexible, moisture-resistant finish formulated to expand and contract with metal through temperature cycling. Applied in two finish coats in satin black. For cases with deeper rust penetration, Corroseal Water-Based Rust Converter and Metal Primer is an alternative that combines conversion and priming in a single product, useful on complex ornamental profiles where two-product systems are harder to apply. THE PROCESS Step 1 - Mechanical Preparation. Windy City Painters wire-wheels all loose rust, flaking paint, and scale using angle grinders fitted with wire wheel attachments. On heavily pitted sections, needle gun descaling is used to reach rust in tight ornamental grooves. This step is non-negotiable. No coating bonds reliably to iron oxide, and skipping this step is the single most common reason iron fence paint fails within a year. Step 2 - Rust Conversion. Ospho is brushed into all pitted and bare metal areas and allowed to fully react. The surface shifts from orange to a grayish-black iron phosphate layer. This stable base accepts primer without the risk of rust migrating upward through the paint film over time. Step 3 - Primer Coat. Rust-Oleum DTM rust-inhibitive primer is applied full coverage over the entire fence surface, including areas that appeared clean but showed minor surface oxidation. DTM primer acts as a moisture barrier and mechanical adhesion layer for the finish coats. Step 4 - Finish Coats. Two coats of Sherwin-Williams DTM acrylic topcoat are applied in satin black, with adequate dry time between coats. The DTM formula remains flexible after cure, allowing the iron to expand and contract through Chicago temperature swings without the topcoat cracking or peeling at joints. CHICAGO-SPECIFIC CHALLENGES Ornamental iron on Chicago greystones, two-flats, and Victorian brownstones was almost never hot-dip galvanized. It was painted from installation and has relied on continuous paint maintenance ever since. Chicago winters add specific stress: freeze-thaw cycles force water into any paint film crack, expanding it; road salt spray elevates corrosive chloride exposure; and humidity during spring thaw keeps metal surfaces wet for extended periods. This combination accelerates rust spread beneath paint films that appear intact on the surface. WHAT TO EXPECT LONG-TERM A properly prepped and primed iron fence finished with a DTM topcoat system should hold 5-8 years in Chicago conditions before any touch-up is warranted. Annual inspection of joints, welds, and areas near grade level will catch early moisture entry before it becomes a larger rust issue. Windy City Painters recommends scheduling touch-up earlier rather than waiting for full paint failure to protect the prep investment. PRO TIPS Tip 1 - Address joint separation before painting. If fence rails have separated at welds or mechanical joints, water will enter and rust will restart from inside the connection point regardless of the exterior coating. Flag any separated joints for welding before any paint system is applied. Tip 2 - Never use latex house paint on iron fences. Standard exterior latex lacks the adhesion and flexibility for bare metal. Always use a product labeled DTM or specify a rust-inhibitive primer underneath any finish coat applied to iron. Tip 3 - Paint in late spring or early fall. Iron fences exposed to full sun in peak summer heat can reach surface temperatures that cause solvent-based coatings to blister during application. Ideal application conditions are 50-85 degrees Fahrenheit with low humidity and no direct intense sun on the metal surface. Learn more about iron fence painting cost in Chicago and schedule your free estimate at windypainters.com FAQ Q: What does iron fence painting cost in Chicago? A: Windy City Painters typically prices residential iron fence painting at $8-$18 per linear foot. Variables include rust severity, spindle density, ornamental profile complexity, and whether rust conversion products like Ospho or Corroseal are required before priming. Q: Can you paint over rust without grinding it off first? A: No. Windy City Painters always performs mechanical prep before any coating. Wire wheel grinding removes loose scale and flaking paint. Rust converters handle residual oxidation chemically. Skipping this step means the new paint film will delaminate within one season. Q: How do I know if my iron fence needs a welder before painting? A: Windy City Painters inspects all joints and rail connections during the estimate. Rail separation, cracked welds, or sections that flex when pressed indicate structural issues that should be welded before any paint system is applied to avoid reopening at stress points. Q: What is the difference between Ospho and Corroseal? A: Both are rust converters. Ospho is a phosphoric acid solution applied as a separate step before priming, giving maximum control over conversion and primer selection. Corroseal combines conversion and primer in one product, which works well on complex ornamental profiles where a two-step system is harder to apply evenly. Q: How long does the paint last on an iron fence in Chicago? A: With full mechanical prep, rust conversion, DTM primer, and two DTM topcoats, Windy City Painters clients typically see 5-8 years of performance before touch-up is needed, even through Chicago freeze-thaw cycling and road salt exposure. Q: Do you paint iron fences that are still structurally sound but heavily rusted on the surface? A: Yes. Surface rust, even heavy pitting, does not necessarily indicate structural failure. Windy City Painters evaluates each fence individually. As long as the metal is sound under the rust, proper mechanical prep and a rust converter restore the surface to a paintable condition.

Exterior, brick, lime, limewash, painted brick, architectural finish

Inspiration for a transitional home design remodel in Minneapolis

Custom Surface Solutions (www.css-tile.com) - Owner Craig Thompson (512) 430-1215. This project shows new 12 x 24 tile installed vertically with offset layout pattern on wall and floor. Includes shower box with linear glass accent tile back and vertical glass accent band. Tile edges are finished with Schluter Jolly satin aluminum profile edge trim.

Old stamped concrete has been resurfaced with soft beige color using Hallmark System. With additional 2 color highlights the look is beautiful and maintenance is no cost. No slippery, long duration, 10 YRS warranty

Example of a large classic backyard stone and rectangular lap pool design in New York

Minimalist dark wood floor kitchen photo in San Francisco

Wood-look tile floor using porcelain plank tiles in a herringbone pattern.
Living room - traditional porcelain tile living room idea in Sacramento

mayitadinosphotography.com
Design ideas for a tropical landscaping in Los Angeles.

KuDa Photography
Large minimalist wooden u-shaped staircase photo with metal risers

BC FLOORS
Mid-sized minimalist dark wood floor and brown floor hallway photo in Vancouver with white walls

Materials and interior paint selected by Cherry City Interiors & Design
Freestanding bathtub - mid-sized contemporary master beige tile and ceramic tile porcelain tile freestanding bathtub idea in Portland with shaker cabinets, dark wood cabinets, white walls, a drop-in sink and tile countertops

Corbin Henry
Example of a tuscan family room design in Sacramento

Karndean vinyl plank Shown: Knight Tile, color: KP35 Cedar KP32 Retro Border
Elegant vinyl floor eat-in kitchen photo in Chicago

New Installation of Red Oak Wood, 3 1/4 in width. White-washed Bona Stain was used, Bona Finish, as well as Bona Traffic HD. **This photo is of the Red Oak Wood (3 1/4 inch) prior to the application of the white-washed Bona Stain.

Example of a mid-sized transitional dark wood floor and brown floor double front door design in Austin with gray walls and a black front door

This 30" x 24" abstract acrylic painting has been done in shades of cobalt blue, sky blue, citrine, chartreuse, white, soft sea green, and royal blue. Finished in gloss varnish to protect the piece from dust and UV light for years to come. Can be hung vertically or horizontally. Gorgeous vivid rich colors in a great contemporary style.

Detail of Iridescent Venetian plaster finish on all walls in Living Room by Christianson Lee Studios
Example of a transitional home design design in New York