Claire Esparros, Homepolish
Example of an eclectic bedroom design in Seattle

Photographer Tertius Bune. Yves Klein, Table D'Oree. 1961 Gold Leaf and Plexi. Pair of Chairs are by Nanna Ditzel. Fiberglass. Denmark 1960.
Inspiration for a contemporary living room remodel in New York

Roundhay is an affluent area of North Leeds which is well-known for the fantastic Roundhay Park. The park is large enough to contain two lakes, extensive woodland, formal gardens and even golf courses! It’s the premier attraction for anyone fortunate enough to live in the area, or anyone visiting from nearby. I recently visited a customer who lives in Roundhay and was looking for help in restoring the small Victorian tiled entranceway at the front of her house. The tiles were in a shocking state, but it’s not hard to imagine why – the entrance to a house receives a lot of foot traffic and is not typically taken care of regularly. These tiles were also marked with paint splashes left over from decoration work, making them look even worse. The appearance of the entranceway did not set the right standard for the rest of the house, so the property owner was keen to have it restored professionally. The appearance of the entranceway did not set the right standard for the rest of the house, so the property owner was keen to have it restored professionally. The appearance of the entranceway did not set the right standard for the rest of the house, so the property owner was keen to have it restored professionally. The appearance of the entranceway did not set the right standard for the rest of the house, so the property owner was keen to have it restored professionally. I informed the customer that I could have the tiles rejuvenated within a day’s work. To begin, I used a scrapper and wire wool brush to manually remove some of the most stubborn paint marks. Following this, I applied a strong solution of Tile Doctor Remove and Go, before leaving the product to dwell for about an hour. Remove and Go is multi-purpose stripping agent that can remove any adhesive and paint deposits, as well as many types of old coatings and sealers. To work the product deep into the tiles, I agitated with an abrasive cleaning pad and then rinsed the area with fresh water. This had the desired affect and all the unsightly paint marks were removed. Next, I gave the floor another thorough clean to remove any general muck and ingrained dirt. This was done using our high-alkaline cleaner, which we typically use on Victorian tiles, known as Tile Doctor Pro-Clean. In fact, Pro-Clean is a very reliable cleaner for all types of tile and grout including natural stone, Limestone, Slate and Travertine, amongst others. Since I told the customer I would able to finish the job within a day, I dried the floor quickly using a heat gun so it could be sealed there and then. To seal the floor, I applied four coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go, which is a topical sealer formulated to provide maximum protection along with a high-quality, low sheen finish. As you can see from the photos above, the entranceway was absolutely transformed. These tiles are now a true asset to the rest of the property, rather than looking out of place! I’m please to say my customer was amazed by how quickly such a big difference could be made and left the following glowing feedback. I can’t believe the before and after pictures. The restoration of the tiles is top quality, they are so much brighter and richer in colour – especially without the garage paint hiding the detail! Nigel did an amazing job, even better than I could have hoped for, and is a lovely guy as well. Would definitely recommend. Nigel Stoker North West Yorkshire Tile Doctor

We were contacted by a customer in West Kirby who needed help renovating a Victorian tiled hallway in a house they had just purchased. Kirby is a desirable seaside location North of Heswall that expanded with the arrival of the railway in 1848. The railway brought a demand for property and so it’s not unusual to find housing stock in this area dating back to the Victorian era. The Victorian tiles at this property appear to have been neglected by the previous owner and were now looking very dull and marked by paint from decorating; all the colours looked washed out and the floor was now looking very unappealing. The good news however is that this problem is not uncommon and with a deep clean and a fresh sealer applied it can be transformed. I gave the owner a quote which was accepted a date agreed for my return to do the work. On the first day the floor was sprayed with a neat solution of Tile Doctor Remove and Go which is a powerful alkaline cleaning and stripping agent used to remove old seals and paint. The solution was left to dwell for about twenty minutes so it could soak in and get to work. It was then scrubbed into the tiles using a coarse 200-grit pad fitted to a heavy buffing machine. Water was then added to the floor for lubrication and the soils released from the pores of the tile during scrubbing was removed by with a wet vacuum. To treat the stubborn paint stains and remains of what I suspect was carpet adhesive a hand scraper and wire brush was used, this was made easier by the Remove and Go which had softened the paint etc. The next stage was to give the Victorian tiles a mild acid wash using Acid Gel which is applied to the floor, scrubbed in, and rinsed off with a little water then extracted using the wet vacuum. We always recommend an acid wash for old floors like these as it will counter any efflorescent salts resident in the tiles and helps to remove other mineral contaminates and old grout that can mask the true beauty of the tiles. I left the tiles to dry out for two days before returning to apply the sealer, first checking it was dry by testing for moisture in various places with an electronic damp tester. It’s not a good idea to apply a sealer to a damp floor so we always check first. Satisfied the floor was dry, I started applying a coat of Tile Doctor Colour Grow which is a colour enhancing impregnating sealer that helps to bring out the true colours in the tile. This was allowed to dry for thirty minutes and then followed up five coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go Extra which is a breathable sealer that leaves a lovely satin finish and builds on the protection. Once done the Victorian hallway tiles looked so much cleaner and healthier. It was quite a transformation and the new sealer had given the floor a nice low sheen shine which the customer was very happy with. For aftercare cleaning I left them with a bottle of Tile Doctor Neutral Cleaner which is specially formulated for cleaning sealed tiles. We don’t recommend tile cleaning products you find on supermarket shelves as the are usually too strong and can strip a sealer off the floor prematurely. If your choosing another product to clean your floor always read the label to make sure its compatible. Andrew Robb Merseyside Tile Doctor

Large trendy gender-neutral light wood floor and beige floor playroom photo in New York with gray walls

This is a metro-style tile accent where there used to be a carmel colored 1950's tile job. This small master bathroom was given a beautiful bowl or trough-style sink atop a handsome hardwood cabinet. New fixtures, including rain shower. New neutral brown style tile floor. Customer VERY satisfied!

Example of a mid-sized transitional master blue tile and glass tile corner shower design in Houston with blue walls and a hinged shower door

A large 2 bedroom, 2.5 bath home in New York City’s High Line area exhibits artisanal, custom furnishings throughout, creating a Mid-Century Modern look to the space. Also inspired by nature, we incorporated warm sunset hues of orange, burgundy, and red throughout the living area and tranquil blue, navy, and gray in the bedrooms. Stunning woodwork, unique artwork, and exquisite lighting can be found throughout this home, making every detail in this home add a special and customized look. The bathrooms showcase gorgeous marble walls which contrast with the dark chevron floor tiles, gold finishes, and espresso woods.

matt meaney @ artisan landscapes and pools
Design ideas for a large traditional full sun front yard stone landscaping in New York.

We are thrilled to introduce our exquisite Chisum Socorro Barstool, a captivating addition to any home dining or living area. The barstool boasts a robust hardwood framing that exudes the essence of rustic western charm, while the hand-sanded leather, accentuated by a contrasting ostrich pattern leather on the outback, enhances the stool's overall appeal. The seat and back are beautifully button-tufted, adding a touch of sophistication to the design. The stool is available in both bar and counter height options, and features a full 360 degree swivel, making it an ideal choice for any space. The carefully crafted design features brass-studded accents and a solid hardwood framing that elevate the stool's motif, while the armrests' gentle sloping feature contrasts the sturdily squared hard lines of the base of the barstool, creating a perfect blend of elegance and authenticity. The Chisum Socorro Barstool is exclusively handcrafted and designed to provide a unique and authentic experience, adding rustic and elegant charm to any space. We are confident that our Chisum Socorro Barstool will not only meet but exceed your expectations with its stand-alone character, beauty, and charm. Whether as a dynamic set or a standalone piece, this classic barstool is 100% American-made to the highest standards of quality and craftsmanship, offering exceptional durability and longevity. Experience the epitome of rustic elegance with our Chisum Socorro Barstool, available in both bar and counter height options, and featuring a full 360 degree swivel and beautiful button-tufted seat and back. Add a touch of sophistication to your home today. Overall Barstool Dimensions: 43" H x 26" W x 22" D Seat Height: 30" Top of Arm Height: 40" Overall Counter Stool Dimension: 38" H x 26" W x 22" D Seat Height: 25" Top of Arm Height: 35" Leather Description: Dyes and waxes are hand applied to South American raw material to impart a transparent clarity. This coupled with substrate gives the leather a sophisticated, pebble grain appearance. All of the aniline dyes applied to the hides are hand rubbed in North Carolina by skilled artisans drawing from years of creative experience creating an impressive patina. The absence of pigments adds to the natural softness of the hides. A light protective top, utilizing a proprietary formulation developed by the tannery creates the exquisite touch Legends is know for and makes the leather suitable for active family homes. Because of the depth and transparency of this leather, natural markings will be exposed and should not be confused as defects or deficiencies, but appreciated as Nature's Autograph of Authenticity found in the finest full grain leathers. Embossed Leather Description: The leather hide is first embossed with an ostrich pattern and then colored by applying two base color coats of micro pigments. The leather is then wiped-off to give it a contrast of colors utilizing the base color combination. This color contrast is further accented by two additional top coat colors that are wiped-on by hand to give the leather a beautiful antique look. The last step is to slightly protect the hand work of the leather hide with a lacquer topcoat that provides great depth and warmth to the finished product. 100% top grain cowhide leather is characterized by variations in shade, texture, color and grain. Healed marks and scars are to be expected and enhance the natural beauty of the hides. These variations should not be considered defects as they are normal and unique features of genuine 100% top grain cowhide leather. Frame Construction: Made with American Alder Wood, our frames are glued, screwed and dowelled at the joints. Two coats of high quality stain is hand rubbed on the wood finish and then sealed with industrial grade clear coat.

s your ornamental iron fence flaking rust onto the sidewalk every time Chicago wind kicks up? That is not a cosmetic problem - it is a sign that bare metal is exposed to moisture and the corrosion cycle is accelerating. Windy City Painters restores iron fencing on Chicago greystones, two-flats, Victorian brownstones, and courtyard buildings using professional-grade rust conversion and rust-inhibitive systems designed for the Midwest climate. PROJECT OVERVIEW Ornamental iron fence painting in Chicago is a multi-stage restoration process, not a simple brush-and-go job. Chicago properties - particularly the dense residential streetscapes of the North Side and Near West Side - feature decorative iron fencing that ranges from simple tubular picket to elaborate spear-top and scroll designs. When paint fails on iron, rust accelerates quickly. Windy City Painters evaluates each fence for structural rust-through, surface rust, and paint adhesion before recommending a scope of work. MATERIALS AND PRODUCTS Rust conversion: Ospho (phosphoric acid-based) or Corroseal (latex rust converter) depending on rust severity and surface porosity. Both chemically convert iron oxide into a stable compound that primer bonds to permanently rather than simply coating over active rust. Primer: Rust-Oleum DTM (Direct to Metal) rust-inhibitive primer or Sherwin-Williams DTM Acrylic Coating primer, both formulated to penetrate weld seams, crevices, and pitted metal surfaces where brush application is essential. Finish coat: Sherwin-Williams DTM Acrylic in satin or semi-gloss for UV resistance, color retention, and flexibility through freeze-thaw cycles. Two finish coats applied by brush for full coverage on ornamental profiles. THE PROCESS Step 1 - Mechanical Preparation: Wire wheel grinding with angle grinders removes loose rust and failing paint across flat rail surfaces. Needle gun descaling reaches weld joints, picket bases, and decorative scroll details where wire wheels cannot access. Windy City Painters inspects for rust-through after mechanical prep and flags any sections needing welding before painting proceeds. Step 2 - Rust Conversion: Ospho or Corroseal is applied by brush to all remaining rust-affected surfaces. Ospho reacts with iron oxide over 24 hours, converting it to iron phosphate. Corroseal encapsulates and converts simultaneously. Both products create a chemically stable surface that dramatically improves primer adhesion on previously rusted iron fence sections. Step 3 - Primer Application: Rust-Oleum DTM or Sherwin-Williams DTM rust-inhibitive primer is worked into every joint, crevice, and ornamental detail by brush - never sprayed alone on open ironwork where overspray and thin coverage risk undercutting. Full wet film thickness is verified before drying. Windy City Painters does not rush cure times between coats. Step 4 - Finish Coats: Two coats of Sherwin-Williams DTM Acrylic topcoat are applied by brush for maximum film build on vertical pickets and horizontal rails. Color is matched to original or updated per homeowner preference. Semi-gloss finish resists dirt accumulation and makes future cleaning easier between repainting cycles. CHICAGO-SPECIFIC CHALLENGES Chicago presents iron fence painting conditions that milder climates do not. Road salt spray from city streets migrates onto fence bases through snowplow activity and foot traffic. Freeze-thaw cycling - sometimes occurring 30 or more times per winter - expands and contracts metal faster than paint can flex if film build is inadequate. High summer humidity slows cure times and risks blushing in topcoats applied too early in the morning. Windy City Painters schedules iron fence work during appropriate temperature and humidity windows and never applies coatings when rain is forecast within 24 hours. WHAT TO EXPECT LONG-TERM A properly prepped and primed iron fence in Chicago should hold a quality DTM finish for 5-8 years before needing significant maintenance. Annual inspection of base welds and picket bottoms - areas where water pools - catches early rust before it requires full mechanical prep again. Touch-up painting of isolated spots extends coating life significantly. PRO TIPS Tip 1: Never let a painter skip straight to topcoat on a rusty fence. Active rust under paint fails within one or two seasons. Ospho or Corroseal conversion is non-negotiable on Chicago iron. Tip 2: Inspect fence picket bases at ground level every fall. That is where water collects, salt concentrates, and rust begins its worst work. Early touch-up costs far less than full restoration. Tip 3: Request brush application on ornamental ironwork rather than spray-only. Brush work ensures wet paint is physically worked into every joint and crevice where rust originates. Ready to restore your iron fence? Visit windypainters.com to schedule a free estimate with Windy City Painters. Q: What does iron fence painting cost in Chicago? A: Iron fence painting in Chicago typically runs $8-$18 per linear foot. Rust severity, fence height, ornamental detail complexity, and whether welding repairs are needed all affect the final cost for professional iron fence restoration. Q: How do you treat rust before painting an iron fence? A: Windy City Painters uses Ospho or Corroseal rust converters after mechanical prep. These products chemically neutralize iron oxide, creating a stable surface that rust-inhibitive primer bonds to permanently rather than painting over active corrosion. Q: What primer is best for painting a rusty iron fence in Chicago? A: Rust-Oleum DTM and Sherwin-Williams DTM rust-inhibitive primers are our go-to products for iron fence painting in Chicago. Both are formulated for direct metal application and resist the moisture and freeze-thaw stress Chicago winters produce. Q: How long does painted iron fencing last in Chicago? A: A professionally prepped and primed iron fence in Chicago holds a quality DTM finish for 5-8 years. Annual inspection of base welds and low points, with spot touch-up as needed, extends that service life considerably. Q: Do I need a welder before painting my iron fence? A: If rust has eaten through fence rails or pickets structurally, Windy City Painters will identify those sections during prep and recommend welding before any primer or paint is applied. Painting over structurally failed metal is a waste of money. Q: Can I paint an iron fence myself? A: DIY iron fence painting without proper rust conversion and DTM primer systems almost always fails within two seasons in Chicago. Professional prep, product selection, and application technique are why Windy City Painters results last 5-8 years. Q: What neighborhoods does Windy City Painters serve for iron fence work? A: Windy City Painters serves Chicago North Side and Near West Side neighborhoods, working on greystones, two-flats, Victorian brownstones, courtyard buildings, and coach houses throughout the city.

The photographs below are of an 80m2 Black Limestone Patio that was laid in rear garden of a property in Sandbach. All was going well until the installer decided to clean up the stone and remove the excess grout (aka grout haze) using brick acid. This is common practice in the trade after laying a patio however what they failed to realise is that Limestone can be marked by acids and in fact can be dissolved over time. This left the patio looking drained and in quite a state as you can imagine. In an attempt to restore the black colour of the stone, the tiler painted on a restoration product however with the grout haze still present on the stone all this did was to add to the problems. Frustrated the customer decided to call Tile Doctor and so I went over to see what could be done. I quickly deducted that the brick acid will have damaged the surface of the stone so to restore it I ran some tests on a small part of the patio that I been badly affected using a series of diamond encrusted burnishing pads of different grits. The pads successfully demonstrated that the appearance could be restored and impressed with the difference I was given the job of renovating all 80m2. Being outside weather was an issue and I had to reschedule until a dry weather window appeared. Cleaning during damp weather isn’t a problem, it’s the sealer which needs to be applied when the sone is dry to get the right result. Made with industrial diamonds and available in different sizes and grits, burnishing pads are ideal for restoring the appearance of polished stone floors. The first step was to work on the most badly damaged tiles with a coarse 100 and then 200-grit diamond milling pad fitted to a weighted rotary machine and lubricated with water. This took off the ruined top layer of the limestone bringing up the virgin stone underneath. Next the patio was worked on with a 400-grit diamond burnishing pad, followed by 800-grit, and then 1500-grit pad. Each pad further renovates the appearance of the stone (Honing) and had to be rinsed after each pad to remove the slurry that is generated. With 80m2 of Limestone paving to cover it took four days to completely restore all the stone using this method. It was tough work, but it made an incredible difference and naturally was far more cost effective than replacing the patio. With the stone cleaned up the last step was to restore the natural black colour in the Limestone with an application of Tile Doctor Stone-Oil which restores the deep black colour and adds texture to the stone, it’s also an impregnating sealer in its own right that adds protection and improves mechanical strength once cured. I allowed this to dry overnight then returned the next day to finish the patio restoration with a further coat of Tile Doctor Ultra-Seal, a no-sheen natural-looking sealer formulated to provide maximum stain protection without altering the colour of the stone. The customer was delighted with the transformation, what was one an uninviting ugly area now looks fantastic and welcoming. Impressed with the result they left the following glowing feedback: “Kamila is A M A Z I N G! From discussing our issue over the phone to meeting her in person, her advice and professionalism was second to none. She worked hard to repair our outdoor patio and we are thrilled with her results! We would happily recommend Kamila and wish her every success with her business in the future! Thank you Kamila! X Kamila Logonzy East Cheshire Tile Doctor

This is a large 17.2 m2 Sandstone Floor installed throughout the living and kitchen areas of a property in the beautiful village of Disley close to Lyme Park which is run by the National Trust. The floor had been installed four years ago and my client was unhappy with the original sealer which hadn’t lasted very long. Without the protection of a sealer dirt had become ingrained in the pores of the stone which was now difficult to clean. Another issue was the rough nature of the Sandstone meant it was impossible to mop as it shreds the mop! As a result, the floor was mainly cleaned with a hoover which was not ideal, especially in a kitchen. I went over to survey the floor and before quoting I ran a small test clean in the kitchen which took the floor back to its natural pale colour and really showed how dirty the floor had become. Test cleans are great as it helps me to formulate an effective cleaning plan and provide an accurate quote. My client was impressed with the result and so I was booked to come back and deep clean and then reseal the whole floor. Due to its size I estimated the floor would take two days to deep clean and a further day to apply a new sealer, so three days in total. Working in large sections I started by cleaning the floor and stripping off the old sealer with a strong dilution of Tile Doctor Remove and Go which is a coatings remover that is safe to use on stone. The solution was left to soak into the pores of the Sandstone for ten minutes before being worked in with a 200-grit diamond pad fitted to a rotary floor machine. This action not only removed the old sealer and cleaned the floor but the 200-grit pad being vey coarse removed a lot of the roughness from the surface of the Sandstone so it shouldn’t shred any more mops. After rinsing the floor with water and removing the slurry with a wet vacuum I set about cleaning the grout with Tile Doctor Pro-Clean worked into the grout line with a stiff brush and assisted with steam from a professional steam cleaner with a grout attachment. Once done the floor was rinsed and extracted again to remove the soil from the grouting. There was also an area near one of the doors where the grout had become loose and needed replacing so I made up a batch of matching grout and filled this in. The floor was then left overnight to dry with assistance from a couple of air movers. I returned the next day to finish the floor by applying a sealer. First, I double checked the floor was dry with the damp meter. The readings confirmed the air movers had done a good job and that the floor was within the accepted parameters, so I was ready to seal. The sealer I chose was Tile Doctor Seal and Go which being water based doesn’t leave a smell as it dries, it really works well on Sandstone and adds a nice subtle sheen to the stone. Once finished the floor looked much cleaner, lighter in colour overall more inviting, you could even see the fossils in some of the tiles. The surface was also smoother so the customer should find cleaning with a mop much easier in future. On that subject its worth pointing out that owners of sealed floors should always use a neutral pH tile cleaner on their floors as most supermarket products are simply too strong and will prematurely strip the sealer off a tile if used repeatedly. Tile Doctor sell a product called Tile Doctor Neutral Cleaner which is ideal for cleaning sealed Sandstone floors like this one. My client was really happy with the results and sent me a message later saying: “the floor looks amazing!” Kamila Logonzy East Cheshire Tile Doctor

Modern Bathroom Design. By using Carrera Polished White Porcelain Tiles on the floor you will get the most "wow" reaction from any guest. You also can use another two selections which are Statuario White Polished and Astoria White Polished porcelain tiles. Designer & Builder #Alireza Ghanbari Provided by #Dizeh Design Build Tile Supplier #VIVA TILES INC

Award winning pool designer Brian T. Stratton | The Pool Artist designed this beautiful custom concrete / gunite swimming pool. Luxury pool designer nj, international pool design, new jersey swimming pool designer, pool artist, swimming pool engineer, swimming pool architect nj, water designer, eleuthera Bahamas pool designer, infinity edge pool design, custom spa design, California pool designer, Mississippi pool designer, south Carolina pool designer, new York pool designer, Pennsylvania pool designer

James Hardie Fiber Cement Siding Replacement — Littleton, Colorado Project Summary: Complete exterior transformation using James Hardie HardiePlank fiber cement siding in Light Mist with coordinating Arctic White trim. Installation completed to Elite Preferred Contractor specifications, qualifying for full 30-year James Hardie product warranty and 15-year ColorPlus finish warranty. Materials Installed: • James Hardie HardiePlank lap siding — Light Mist ColorPlus finish • James Hardie trim and fascia — Arctic White • Complete soffit integration with proper ventilation • All flashing and water management details engineered to specification Design & Aesthetic: The Light Mist finish delivers a modern, sophisticated palette that complements Littleton's residential character. Arctic White trim creates crisp architectural definition and visual separation between walls and roof lines. The clean horizontal profile of HardiePlank lap siding provides classic curb appeal with contemporary minimalism. Why Fiber Cement for Littleton Homes: Littleton experiences Colorado's signature freeze-thaw climate — repeated daily temperature swings that challenge standard siding materials. James Hardie HZ5 formulation is engineered specifically for Colorado's elevation and weather extremes. The fiber cement composite is dimensionally stable through thousands of freeze-thaw cycles, resists moisture absorption and rot, and meets fire-resistant requirements for increasing home value and insurance considerations. ColorPlus Technology: The factory-applied ColorPlus finish is kiln-baked and UV-stabilized at the manufacturing facility — not field-painted. It resists fading, peeling, and chalking through 15+ years of Colorado's intense sun exposure. The warranty is realistic for Littleton's altitude and climate, not national averages. Installation Quality: This project was installed by 5280 Exteriors, a James Hardie Elite Preferred Contractor. Elite Preferred status requires verified installation quality, ongoing manufacturer training, and demonstrated track record. Only Elite Preferred Contractors can issue the full 30-year product warranty and 15-year ColorPlus warranty. Standard installation does not qualify. Performance Advantages: • Zero maintenance required — no annual painting, staining, or sealing • Non-combustible material — meets fire-resistant standards • Engineered for Colorado's freeze-thaw climate zones • 30-year product warranty (Elite Preferred installation) • 15-year ColorPlus finish warranty • Increases resale value in competitive Littleton market • Improves energy efficiency through proper wall air sealing Before & After Transformation: The before condition shows aging, weathered siding. The after transformation reveals a modern exterior with clean lines, architectural definition, and premium material quality. The Light Mist and Arctic White palette creates a cohesive, intentional aesthetic that enhances the home's curb appeal and overall property value. About This Project: Location: Littleton, Colorado (South Denver Metro) Scope: Full siding replacement Materials: James Hardie HardiePlank fiber cement Colors: Light Mist (walls) + Arctic White (trim) Installation: Elite Preferred Contractor specification Warranty: 30-year product + 15-year finish Contractor: 5280 Exteriors 5280 Exteriors is a James Hardie Elite Preferred Contractor serving Littleton, Denver metro, South Denver, and Colorado's Front Range. We specialize in premium exterior remodeling including fiber cement siding, energy-efficient windows, roofing systems, and composite decking. Our team has 20+ years of experience with Colorado's high-altitude and challenging climate conditions.

Most trees have leaves that will change colours every time the seasons change. This means that you may see changes three to four times a year depending on where you live. However, they will typically retain some measure of green colouring on their leaves until fall rolls around. During the fall season, trees explode with bright reds, oranges, and vibrant yellows. This is a natural part of their growth and hibernation process. However, if you see these colours in the offseason, it may be a sign that there is a problem. Below, Five Star Tree Services discusses why your leaves may be yellow during the summer and what you can do about it. Should Leaves Turn Yellow in the Summer? If your trees have yellow leaves in the summer, it is a sign that it is suffering from disease, or having a problem with its growth cycle. Having your trees inspected periodically by a trained professional will help you catch problems early. If your trees already have yellow leaves in the offseason, they can identify the cause and suggest a solution. When diagnosed early, suggested treatments can help save the tree. Keep reading for some common causes of yellowing leaves. Improper Watering One of the most common reasons trees start to develop yellow leaves in the summer is due to dehydration. Checking the soil moisture levels will help determine if your trees are getting enough water. Hydration is important all year long, but especially crucial during the hot summer months. If there are dry areas around your tree trunk, it is a good idea to partake in deep root watering to help keep your trees healthy and well-watered. Make sure that you don’t overwater your trees because flooding their roots can also be unhealthy. Lacking Nutrition Just like people, trees need to get the right blend of nutrients in order to remain healthy. If your tree has yellow leaves in the summer and is also getting enough water, chances are it is not getting the nutrients it needs from the soil. If soil testing shows low levels of nutrients, it is a good idea to schedule a deep root fertilization treatment to adjust the levels. In many instances, correcting the soil will help you save the tree. Insect or Pest Infestation Yellow summer leaves are also a sign that a tree has been infested with pests. Some pest is only active in the summer. Some of the most common are: Emerald Ash Borer Asian Long-Horned Beetle Yellownecked Caterpillar Ash Flower Gall Bronze Birch Borer Apple-and-Thorn Skeletonizer Eastern Tent Caterpillar Birch Leafminer Fall Webworm Gypsy Moth And many others The first thing you should do is call an arborist to have the tree inspected. They will be able to identify the root of the problem and formulate a solution to treat the pest infestation. This will help you get rid of the bugs once and for all and save your tree in the process. How We Can Help If you have noticed that one of your trees have begun to develop yellow leaves, give Five Star Tree Services a call as soon as possible. We have been providing tree care services in Toronto for over 10 years. Our skilled arborist would be more than happy to evaluate your tree and suggest a solution to treat the problem, so don’t wait. Contact us at (416) 990-3355 today!

Horizontal slat cedar privacy fence in woodland garden.

Example of a transitional bathroom design in Tampa