Does your iron fence look like Chicago winters have been winning the battle for years? That slow orange spread across pickets and rails is not just an eyesore - it is active corrosion undermining the structural integrity of metalwork that frames some of Chicago's most architecturally significant residential properties. Windy City Painters addresses iron fence rust at the source, using professional-grade rust conversion chemistry and direct-to-metal coatings engineered for the specific abuse Chicago's climate delivers. PROJECT OVERVIEW This project involved a heavily rusted ornamental iron fence on a Chicago North Side residential property. Rust had progressed beyond surface oxidation into moderate pitting on lower rails, a pattern Windy City Painters sees frequently on properties within blocks of treated roadways where salt drift accelerates corrosion. The scope included mechanical descaling, chemical rust conversion, DTM priming, and a durable gloss topcoat matched to the original fence color. MATERIALS AND PRODUCTS Ospho Rust Converter: A phosphoric acid-based treatment that chemically reacts with iron oxide, converting it to iron phosphate - a stable, paintable compound. Corroseal Water-Based Rust Converter is an alternative for situations requiring lower VOC handling. Rust-Oleum Professional DTM Primer and Sherwin-Williams DTM Acrylic Coating serve as the primary coating system, formulated for direct metal adhesion with built-in rust inhibitors. For structurally compromised sections, welding is coordinated before any chemical or coating work begins. THE PROCESS Step 1 - Mechanical Preparation: Wire wheel grinding on an angle grinder removes loose rust scale, mill scale, and flaking paint. For advanced pitting, Windy City Painters deploys a needle gun descaler, which impacts the metal surface thousands of times per minute to drive scale from deep cavities. This step determines whether the fence can be coated or needs welding first. Step 2 - Chemical Rust Conversion: Ospho or Corroseal is brushed onto all remaining rust surface. These products do not simply seal rust - they react with it. The conversion process takes 24 hours to fully cure before topcoating. Skipping this step is the single most common reason iron fence paint jobs fail prematurely. Step 3 - DTM Priming: Sherwin-Williams DTM or Rust-Oleum DTM primer is applied by brush to ensure full penetration around decorative elements, picket tips, and weld joints. Spray application is used on open sections for even film build. DTM formulations bond directly to prepared metal without a separate shop primer. Step 4 - Finish Coating: A DTM topcoat in gloss or semi-gloss provides the final weather barrier. Gloss is preferred for iron fencing because the harder surface sheds water more effectively and resists dirt adhesion between maintenance cycles. Windy City Painters applies two finish coats for maximum film thickness. CHICAGO-SPECIFIC CHALLENGES Chicago's freeze-thaw cycle is the primary enemy of iron fence coatings. Water infiltrates micro-cracks in paint film, freezes, expands, and delaminate coating from beneath. Properties on the North Side and Near West Side also contend with lake-effect humidity that keeps metal surfaces damp for extended periods, slowing cure times and promoting under-film corrosion if preparation is inadequate. Greystones and Victorian brownstones typically feature ornate cast iron or wrought iron fencing with complex geometries that trap moisture and demand hand-brush application to fully coat recesses. WHAT TO EXPECT LONG-TERM A properly prepared and coated iron fence in Chicago should hold 5-8 years before requiring recoating. Annual inspection of weld joints, picket tips, and base rails closest to grade will identify early rust return. Addressing small spots with touch-up converter and primer extends service life significantly between full recoats. PRO TIPS Tip 1: Never pressure wash a rusted iron fence immediately before painting. Water drives moisture into pits and delays the surface drying needed for chemical converter adhesion. Allow 48 hours of dry weather before prep begins. Tip 2: Picket tips and rail ends are the first failure points. These end-grain equivalent areas on metal concentrate corrosion. Ask your painter to apply an extra brush coat to every tip and terminus. Tip 3: Black is the traditional and most durable color choice for iron fencing. Dark pigments absorb UV rather than reflecting it, reducing thermal cycling stress on the paint film at color change boundaries. FAQ Q: What does iron fence painting cost in Chicago? A: Most residential iron fence painting in Chicago ranges from $400 to $1,200 depending on linear footage, rust severity, prep method required, and whether structural welding is needed before Windy City Painters can coat the surface. Q: How do I know if my fence needs a welder before painting? A: If you can press a screwdriver through a rail or picket, the metal wall has failed. Windy City Painters inspects all fencing before quoting and identifies weld-required sections so repairs happen before any coating investment. Q: Is Ospho or Corroseal better for my fence? A: Both convert rust effectively. Ospho is solvent-based and fast-acting, preferred for heavy rust. Corroseal is water-based with lower odor, preferred in enclosed or residential settings where off-gassing is a concern. Windy City Painters selects based on site conditions. Q: Can iron fence painting be done in winter in Chicago? A: Application requires temperatures above 50 degrees Fahrenheit for DTM coatings to cure properly. Most iron fence painting in Chicago runs April through October, with scheduling flexibility based on extended warm stretches. Q: How do I maintain my fence between professional recoats? A: Inspect annually in spring. Sand any rust spots to bare metal with 80-grit paper, apply Ospho, let cure 24 hours, then spot-prime with DTM primer and touch up with finish coat. Windy City Painters offers maintenance inspections. Q: Do you paint courtyard building fences and coach house gates? A: Yes. Multi-unit courtyard buildings and coach houses are common in the North Side neighborhoods Windy City Painters serves. We coordinate with property managers and HOAs for larger perimeter fence projects. Q: How long after painting can I touch the fence? A: DTM coatings are typically dry to touch in 2-4 hours and hard dry in 24 hours. Full cure for maximum hardness takes 7 days. Windy City Painters advises against pressure washing or heavy contact during that cure window. Visit windypainters.com to request your free iron fence assessment and project quote.

Excited to share with you a new bathroom project we’ve completed for a client in Kirkland featuring brand new shower glass, Carrara marble wall, patterned tile floor, new bathroom fixtures, new tub, and vanity. This is definitely a trend continuing into 2020, an emphasis on minimalism yet sophisticated design.

Stamped concrete patio, fieldstone pattern with a block seating with caps and a block fire-pit.
Large minimalist backyard stamped concrete patio photo in DC Metro with a fire pit

A shower seat offers a spot for easy grooming or relaxation while the glass shelves storage bath products close at hand. The glass border adds visually interest.

Mid-sized trendy wooden straight open and metal railing staircase photo in New York

We expanded an existing deck with new stairs, railing, decking, deck board design, lighting, complete with all post and beam wraps. All decking you see is Zuri decking with Timbertech Rail Systems. We installed riser lights up the stairs with post caps on top of all posts.

Over 9,000 sf of porphyry cobblestone pavers for St. Annes Community Plaza located in Northern California. 4” x 4” x 1-1/4” to 2” thick pavers and a color range mix of red, gold, tan and brown. Tom Holloway, Principal of KLA Inc, Sonora CA, was the lead landscape architect/designer on this beautiful project. Simile Construction of Modesto provided the installation.

Reclaimed fir T&G with faded grey finish. Photo: Sterling Lorence
Example of a beach style deck design in Vancouver

Stamped Concrete driveway
Photo of a front yard driveway in Ottawa.

Inspiration for a mid-sized traditional full sun front yard brick driveway in Richmond for summer.

Stamped concrete patio with the slate pattern and a border.
Large elegant backyard stamped concrete patio photo with a fire pit and no cover

Ever notice how your iron fence looks more rust than paint after another brutal Chicago winter? That is usually the moment homeowners start searching for a painting contractor who actually understands metal - not just someone who will brush a coat of black paint over active corrosion and call it done. At Windy City Painters, iron fence restoration is one of our most requested services on the North Side and Near West Side, and for good reason. These fences are old, they are beautiful, and they deserve a proper finish system. PROJECT OVERVIEW This project involved a full ornamental iron fence on a North Side greystone property. The fence was original to the building - likely installed in the 1910s or 1920s - and had gone through multiple paint cycles without any rust conversion work. By the time Windy City Painters arrived, the horizontal rails showed active pitting, the vertical spindles had surface rust under lifting paint, and two corner posts had minor joint separation. The homeowner wanted the fence restored to a sharp satin black finish that would hold through multiple Chicago winters. MATERIALS AND PRODUCTS Ospho Rust Converter - phosphoric acid formula that chemically neutralizes iron oxide and converts it to iron phosphate, a stable paintable surface. Used on all pitted and actively corroded areas before primer application. Rust-Oleum DTM Rust-Inhibitive Primer - direct-to-metal primer that bonds to both converted rust zones and bare metal, blocking moisture intrusion at the substrate level. Sherwin-Williams DTM Acrylic Topcoat - flexible, moisture-resistant finish formulated to expand and contract with metal through temperature cycling. Applied in two finish coats in satin black. For cases with deeper rust penetration, Corroseal Water-Based Rust Converter and Metal Primer is an alternative that combines conversion and priming in a single product, useful on complex ornamental profiles where two-product systems are harder to apply. THE PROCESS Step 1 - Mechanical Preparation. Windy City Painters wire-wheels all loose rust, flaking paint, and scale using angle grinders fitted with wire wheel attachments. On heavily pitted sections, needle gun descaling is used to reach rust in tight ornamental grooves. This step is non-negotiable. No coating bonds reliably to iron oxide, and skipping this step is the single most common reason iron fence paint fails within a year. Step 2 - Rust Conversion. Ospho is brushed into all pitted and bare metal areas and allowed to fully react. The surface shifts from orange to a grayish-black iron phosphate layer. This stable base accepts primer without the risk of rust migrating upward through the paint film over time. Step 3 - Primer Coat. Rust-Oleum DTM rust-inhibitive primer is applied full coverage over the entire fence surface, including areas that appeared clean but showed minor surface oxidation. DTM primer acts as a moisture barrier and mechanical adhesion layer for the finish coats. Step 4 - Finish Coats. Two coats of Sherwin-Williams DTM acrylic topcoat are applied in satin black, with adequate dry time between coats. The DTM formula remains flexible after cure, allowing the iron to expand and contract through Chicago temperature swings without the topcoat cracking or peeling at joints. CHICAGO-SPECIFIC CHALLENGES Ornamental iron on Chicago greystones, two-flats, and Victorian brownstones was almost never hot-dip galvanized. It was painted from installation and has relied on continuous paint maintenance ever since. Chicago winters add specific stress: freeze-thaw cycles force water into any paint film crack, expanding it; road salt spray elevates corrosive chloride exposure; and humidity during spring thaw keeps metal surfaces wet for extended periods. This combination accelerates rust spread beneath paint films that appear intact on the surface. WHAT TO EXPECT LONG-TERM A properly prepped and primed iron fence finished with a DTM topcoat system should hold 5-8 years in Chicago conditions before any touch-up is warranted. Annual inspection of joints, welds, and areas near grade level will catch early moisture entry before it becomes a larger rust issue. Windy City Painters recommends scheduling touch-up earlier rather than waiting for full paint failure to protect the prep investment. PRO TIPS Tip 1 - Address joint separation before painting. If fence rails have separated at welds or mechanical joints, water will enter and rust will restart from inside the connection point regardless of the exterior coating. Flag any separated joints for welding before any paint system is applied. Tip 2 - Never use latex house paint on iron fences. Standard exterior latex lacks the adhesion and flexibility for bare metal. Always use a product labeled DTM or specify a rust-inhibitive primer underneath any finish coat applied to iron. Tip 3 - Paint in late spring or early fall. Iron fences exposed to full sun in peak summer heat can reach surface temperatures that cause solvent-based coatings to blister during application. Ideal application conditions are 50-85 degrees Fahrenheit with low humidity and no direct intense sun on the metal surface. Learn more about iron fence painting cost in Chicago and schedule your free estimate at windypainters.com FAQ Q: What does iron fence painting cost in Chicago? A: Windy City Painters typically prices residential iron fence painting at $8-$18 per linear foot. Variables include rust severity, spindle density, ornamental profile complexity, and whether rust conversion products like Ospho or Corroseal are required before priming. Q: Can you paint over rust without grinding it off first? A: No. Windy City Painters always performs mechanical prep before any coating. Wire wheel grinding removes loose scale and flaking paint. Rust converters handle residual oxidation chemically. Skipping this step means the new paint film will delaminate within one season. Q: How do I know if my iron fence needs a welder before painting? A: Windy City Painters inspects all joints and rail connections during the estimate. Rail separation, cracked welds, or sections that flex when pressed indicate structural issues that should be welded before any paint system is applied to avoid reopening at stress points. Q: What is the difference between Ospho and Corroseal? A: Both are rust converters. Ospho is a phosphoric acid solution applied as a separate step before priming, giving maximum control over conversion and primer selection. Corroseal combines conversion and primer in one product, which works well on complex ornamental profiles where a two-step system is harder to apply evenly. Q: How long does the paint last on an iron fence in Chicago? A: With full mechanical prep, rust conversion, DTM primer, and two DTM topcoats, Windy City Painters clients typically see 5-8 years of performance before touch-up is needed, even through Chicago freeze-thaw cycling and road salt exposure. Q: Do you paint iron fences that are still structurally sound but heavily rusted on the surface? A: Yes. Surface rust, even heavy pitting, does not necessarily indicate structural failure. Windy City Painters evaluates each fence individually. As long as the metal is sound under the rust, proper mechanical prep and a rust converter restore the surface to a paintable condition.

Trendy home design photo in London

Chicago isn’t known for spacious bathrooms, especially in older areas like Ravenswood. But we’re experts in using every inch of a condo’s limited footprint. With that determination, this mini master bath now has a full vanity, shower, and soaking tub with room to spare. You can find more information about 123 Remodeling and schedule a free onsite estimate on our website: https://123remodeling.com/

Inspiration for a small transitional 3/4 beige tile, white tile and stone slab ceramic tile drop-in bathtub remodel in Orange County with flat-panel cabinets, medium tone wood cabinets, a one-piece toilet, white walls, a drop-in sink and solid surface countertops

Allan Jerman
Trendy home design photo in Boise

A complete primary bathroom remodel in Springfield, Virginia, designed around three priorities our clients came in with: a real walk-in shower, a freestanding tub by the windows, and a proper double vanity with storage that actually worked. The original layout had everything in the wrong place. The tub sat against an interior wall away from the natural light. A small stall shower took up real estate across the room. The vanity was squeezed into whatever space was left over. Three windows on the back wall were doing nothing for the room because the layout was fighting them. Our solution involved knocking down the dividing wall between the old shower and vanity area, relocating plumbing for both the tub and the new vanities, and placing the freestanding tub directly under the bay of windows so morning light became part of the experience. Design Approach We anchored the room around contrast: deep navy cabinetry against soft white walls, warm brushed gold against cool marble tile, sharp Shaker lines against the curved silhouette of the freestanding tub. Navy was the design decision the rest of the room was built around — the clients knew they wanted color but didn't want anything that would feel dated in five years. Navy reads bold without being loud, pairs with virtually any metal finish, and has staying power that trendier choices don't. We used Fabuwood Galaxy Indigo for the vanities — all-plywood construction with solid wood doors and drawer fronts, soft close throughout. Shaker-style flat panels keep the navy from feeling heavy. The brushed gold (Jeffrey Alexander 635-96SBZ in satin bronze) shows up across hardware, faucets, lighting, the tub filler, and the shower trim, creating a quiet continuity throughout the room. The Shower Removing the wall between the old shower and old vanity area created room for a proper walk-in. We tiled the entire shower floor to ceiling in Decovita Calacatta Suave 24x48" porcelain — large format installed in a 50% offset horizontal pattern, with cement board and redgard underneath. The marble-look porcelain gives the visual depth of natural marble without the maintenance. A built-in shower bench, custom-built into the corner, is wrapped in the same wall tile on the front with a quartz top matching the vanity counter. The shower niche is detailed with MSI Arabescato Carrara 2" honed hex mosaic at the back, the same tile used on the shower floor. All tile edges are finished with Schluter in satin bronze to match the room's metal finishes. The shower door is custom frameless 3/8" tempered glass with a satin bronze pull — no metal frame interrupting the sight line. The Vanities and Countertops The new double vanity gives both clients their own space for morning routines. Counter tops are MSI Calacatta Miraggio Cielo quartz with pencil edging and a 4" backsplash — a soft white with subtle gray veining that reads like real Calacatta marble without the porosity issues. Two undermount square porcelain sinks finish the surface cleanly. The Tub A 60" freestanding soaker tub sits under the bay of three windows. The floor-mounted tub filler is satin bronze with a handheld sprayer. We relocated the drain and supply lines to make the centered placement work. The tub is the room's quietest feature and its strongest — clients tell us they use this bathroom differently than they used the old one. Flooring MSI Sande Ivory 12x24" matte porcelain runs throughout the bathroom floor in a 50% offset pattern parallel to the vanity wall. Cement board underneath, 4" white wood baseboard, Whisper Grey grout that handles daily use without showing wear. Paint and Lighting Walls are Benjamin Moore Chantilly Lace 2121-70 in satin — a true crisp white that doesn't lean cool or warm. The ceiling uses Benjamin Moore Aura Bath and Spa White, which is formulated to resist mildew in high-humidity spaces. Lighting is layered: three new 6" LED recessed lights on a dimmer, two satin bronze vanity sconces above the mirrors, and the existing three windows providing the daytime ambient light. Project Specs Location: Springfield, Virginia Project type: Full primary bathroom remodel Project duration: Approximately 5 weeks Style: Modern, Transitional Color palette: Navy, white, brushed gold, marble Materials Cabinetry: Fabuwood Galaxy Indigo, Shaker-style flat panel maple, all-plywood construction Cabinet hardware: Jeffrey Alexander 635-96SBZ Satin Bronze pulls Vanity counter and bench top: MSI Calacatta Miraggio Cielo Quartz, pencil edge with 4" backsplash Sinks: Undermount white porcelain BR-202 square (x2) Wall tile: Decovita Calacatta Suave 24x48" porcelain Floor tile: MSI Sande Ivory 12x24" matte porcelain Shower floor + niche back: MSI Arabescato Carrara 2" honed hex mosaic marble Edge trim: Schluter satin bronze Shower door: Custom frameless 3/8" tempered glass Tub: 60" freestanding acrylic soaker (Ferguson) Tub filler: Floor-mounted satin bronze (Ferguson) Vanity faucets, mirrors, sconces, toilet: Satin bronze coordinated finishes (Ferguson) Wall paint: Benjamin Moore Chantilly Lace 2121-70 Satin Ceiling paint: Benjamin Moore Aura Bath and Spa White Grout: Whisper Grey (floor), Standard White (walls and shower) Designed and built by My Kitchen and Bath out of our Alexandria showroom at 5710 General Washington Drive. We've been designing and building kitchens, bathrooms, and full home renovations across Northern Virginia and the DMV since 1994.