I started looking into smart pots. Maybe I'll try them. They have tan and black, is it just for color corrdination?
What size works best for tomatoes and should I get them with or without handles?

Then there's the Colorful Tomato Grow Bags which apparently would fit my recently purchased tomato cages perfectly.

Here is a link that might be useful: Tomato Grow Bag

The 10 gallon Smart Pots work good for determinate varieties. otherwise go bigger.

So-called "organic" mixes for containers is a waste of money. As often discussed here there are no beneficial bacteria in container mixes to convert the nutrients for plant use unless you add them. Use any plain (no added ferts) soil-less mix - peat, perlite, vermiculite, etc. are all as organic as you can get. Better yet use one of the many recommended container mixes.

Dave

You can always put ugly "gets the job done" pots inside another container (preferably one that has drainage) or just build a "false wall/box" in front or around the pots that's more decorative.

Dave:

Upon doing more homework I'm actually leaning towards the 20 gallon GeoPots for all my tomatoes (determinate and indeterminate).

Forgive me if this sounds like a dumb question but what is the difference between peat, perlite, vermiculite and how are these considered soil-less? Why would you not want soil in these containers?

If you are thinking to intersperse with annuals (what size annuals) have you considered some of the very small sized container tomatos, sweet n neat, micro tom, etc?

Forgive me if this sounds like a dumb question but what is the difference between peat, perlite, vermiculite and how are these considered soil-less? Why would you not want soil in these containers?

You do not want soil (dirt) in containers. That is common knowledge. Just a few of the issues are that soil compacts in a container, it suffocates roots, and it drains poorly in a container resulting in root rot. Container mixes labeled "potting soil" contain dirt. Those labeled "potting mix" do not.

Soil-less container mixes are made of peat, vermiculite and perlite all of which are organic but they are not soil. They contain no soil and they are what is recommended for use in containers.

The point is that all soil-less container mixes except for those that contain added fertilizers are organic. Just as "organic" as the mixes that are labeled "organic" yet those labeled "organic" cost 2x as much. It is a nothing but a marketing ploy.

You can learn all about this over on the Container Gardening forum as well as find recipes for making your own soil-less container mixes.

Dave

When talking about soil-less mixes, sand, silt, and clay are the "soil". Of course, in-ground garden soil (or just plain dirt) should have some organic material in addition to the sand, silt, and clay, but for container mix talk those 3 make up the soil. They are also the parts that would contribute to the container soil problems Dave mentions.

Thanks for the clarifications on the differences between all of the various types of growing mediums.

Why is it ok to use soil in raised beds and not containers?

So the long rectangular containers that I use for my leafy salad greens (as seen in the drip irrigation video I made below) shouldn't have the same soil that is in my raised beds (that they are temporarily sitting on in the video)? I drilled a ton of holes underneath each one for drainage. The soil was tested by Rutgers last year and my results were very good.

Here is a link that might be useful: Drip Irrigation

Why is it ok to use soil in raised beds and not containers?

Trying to compare the 2 is kind of an apples vs. oranges but:

1 - many don't use soil in raised beds. The common recommendations for raised bed filler are mixes of the same ingredients listed above that are used for containers plus lots compost.

2 - those that do use some of their native soil into the raised beds improve its tilth and drainage substantially with lots of the other added ingredients, especially compost.

3 - raised beds come in all sorts of sizes so how well soil will work in a raised bed depends on the size of the raised bed. The smaller the raised bed the less soil it should contain for best results; the larger the bed the more it can tolerate and adjust for the problems of dirt.

4 - even the smallest raised bed compacts less than any container will. Soil weight in a container can only sink down, not out as in a raised bed. Water and nutrients can diffuse both out and down in a raised bed, roots can still spread out and down, and there is greater surface exposure to air for root oxygenation and more moisture evaporation.

Dave

Wish I knew this when I filled my beds last spring. I bought a product called "All Top" which is a Topsoil Compost Blend, delivered to my house. It seemed very fine and rich when it was delivered but compacted midway through the summer until I added a layer of natural cedar mulch on top to keep moisture from evaporating from it. See link to product page below.

Here is a link that might be useful: All Top

I work at a nursery. We used to collect old pots for re-cycling but now the recycling company charges us to pickup the pots.

I have people stop in every year and want to grow peppers or eggplant on the patio. I just give them used pots for free to recycle them. #10 or #15 work great.
Yes they are plain black pots but the price is right.
I would nt use smaller than #15 for tomatoes.

Wish I knew this when I filled my beds last spring. I bought a product called "All Top" which is a Topsoil Compost Blend,

If you search 'topsoil' you'll find all sorts of discussions about how poor it is considered since the term can mean 500 different things, some ok, some not too bad, and some really lousy.

But discussions on how to salvage it when used are common on the Soil & Compost forum here. It can be salvaged simply by adding lots and lots and lots of quality compost to it and mixing it in well. Then use more compost (not wood chips) to mulch the top with and refresh the compost content in the bed each spring..

Using any kind of wood chip mulch in a vegetable garden is a hotly debated topic with lots of pros and cons.

Dave

Dave,

In that case I guess next season I'll remove the cedar mulch covering and add compost on top instead.

But won't the soil that's in my beds just remain there indefintely unless I remove some of it, mix the rest with something else and then refill my beds?

Should the result of my soil test I got from Rutgers reveal the composition of it? See below.

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