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tengreenfingers

Seedlings doing poorly...what is it?

13 years ago

I started seeds indoors about two/three weeks ago. Pole beans and squash/curcurbits came up quick and have their true sets of leaves starting. I am using Johnny's seeds (FYI). I have als used Jiffy seed starter mix in plastic cell type trays. Corn has come up okay, looks nice. Tomatoes & Peppers... just two tomato seedlings have appeared.

A few things:
Has anyone had their soil starter (which is supposed to be sterile right?) crust up on top, like black crust?
This happened to me and I had to scrape it off, which is where I think I may have lost some seeds that wee probably germinating for the peppers and tomtoes. I ended up having to replants some seeds last week. There's still black crust startin to form.

After the crust, I started a 9 parts water, 1 part hydrogen peroxide spray and misted all the soil surfaces a few times last week and this.

This week I am trying to harden off the beans, corn, curcurbits. All of the sudden there's funky stuff happening to the leaves of this beans, which were doing the best of all of the plants. It's like there's already a something like a leaf miner would do eating the plants leaves a bit. and they are puckering a bit now too.

Only my cucumber seedlings started getting silvery/white (like powder mildew.. could this be the seeds?). But what can I do to save them? get rid of them and start over?

Other thoughts, the water softener was not working and now it is. could the water going from hardness of fifteen to hardness of three make it worse for plants?

Was the starter mix bad and causing the crunchy stuff?

Even the outdoor plants where I used the starter mix for my colder weather herbs are getting the crusty black stuff.

What the heck! I haven't had this problem before. It's usually fairly easy.

HELP!

Comments (4)

  • 13 years ago

    Well, let's see. Typically, it is far easier and far more successful to plant cucs, squash, corn, and bean seeds into the soil of your garden. They do not like pots. If their roots hit the bottom of the pot, they will stop growing. Yes, I know that they are sold that way at garden centers (at least cucs and squash), but if those babies have been in the pots more than 2 weeks, they won't do well. Seedlings that are unhappy with their root space will inevitably start to look sick, because they are.

    If I were you, I would throw out those and just plant fresh seed in the garden, ASSUMING your ground is ready (tilled, amended, raked, etc.) and your weather is ready (last frost date past, days warm, and night time lows at or above 55 degrees).

    As to your starting medium. Does the bag say "MIX" or "SOIL"? The fact that it is cracking makes me wonder if you got a bargain brand soil that has soil in it. Dirt doesn't do well in pots. Compost does. Potting Mix does. Dirt does not.

    The trick to germinating tomatoes and peppers seed is 1) the right potting mix, 2) the right temperature, which is warm: in the mid 70s to high 80s, 3) the right light (as much as possible, either outside or under flourescents for 16 hours a day, and 4)constantly moist but not soppy wet conditions. This is achieved by putting your flats inside a plastic storage box or into a big plastic bag, etc.

    The quickest way I know to kill newly germinated seedlings is to over water them. Every few days, stick your finger into the soil about an inch deep, then rub your thumb and finger together. Feel moist? DON'T water. Feel dry? Water and then water a day sooner next time. I typically only need to water my seedlings once a week. Anymore and you risk damping off and other nasty things.

    This is me being shocked. Please forgive me. What on earth is the hydrogen peroxide about? Knock it off. (If I am ignorant about some new technique, you can be sure that somebody will hasten to correct me.) Sorry if I sound like a know it all.

    Do not despair. All is not lost. My daddy would call this very cheap education. So don't give up. Start again. If you don't have six weeks left to start new tomatoes and peppers, just go buy transplants and try again next year. You'll do better.

    Oh, and next year, visit the Seed Starting Forum. Those folks know all the ins and outs, and you will learn lots from them!

  • 13 years ago

    tengreenfingers.. go get tomato and pepper translplants for this year, it's too late to start them from seed in your zone this year. You want to start them 8 to ten weeks in advance of transplanting, prob sometime in early to mid March. I would also agree with just direct sowing the cucurbits, they come up pretty quick.

    P.s. Colby Sawyer class of 2000 graduate here... miss it up there!

  • 13 years ago

    Also, I just noticed that you are using a water softener.. that may be part of your issue, those tend to add a lot of salt to your water and are generally not reccomended to use for irrigating plants...

  • 13 years ago

    Let me guess - you bought the Jiffy "Organic" Seed starting mix this year? Gold foil-like package? Notice the difference in the texture and consistency? Been lots of complaints about it over on the Growing from Seed forum here the past 2 years since it came out.

    Yes it gets crusty, no it is not sterile - has all sorts of composted chicken manure and feather meal added - and yes, germination rates seem to be very reduced.

    Even the traditional Jiffy mix gets very mixed reviews at best but the so-called "organic" stuff seems to be causing folks even more problems than the traditional mix ever did.

    Sorry for all the problems but for next year it really is worth investing a bit more in a quality, sterile seed starting mix. There are many brands available. ProMix BX is often recommended as the best but Johnny's also sells a good one as do several other seed suppliers. Fox Farm is another brand I have seen good reviews on.

    Dave