A lot of things can work on SVB if you can get to them. The basic problem is when they make their way inside the plant. You can try BT or other agent but it needs to be inside the stalk. All the druggies have made getting hypodermic needles harder to come by but is really the right answer. I would use BT as your agent because it is not likely to impact anything else.

where would i get that?
Thanks again :)

http://www.amazon.com/Safer-Brand-Catepillar-Killer-Concentrate/dp/B000GA7ZO8/ref=pd_sbs_hi_1

The needle from some med supply source. I used an eye dropper but that beats up on the stalk much more.

Hello macheske,

Yes you are right on both counts. I think I have SVBs on my mind. I have had a visit from squash bugs as well in the past. They are like a locust plaque.

Would this be helpful?

Here is a link that might be useful: K-State: Squash bugs and squash vine borers

Besides, I wouldn't use vinegar on any vegetable plant. At full strength it's used as an organic herbicide, a plant/weed-killer.

I believe I actually have both bug problems. I have posted some pictures. My squash have really declined within 2 days. Do I still have a chance to save them?
Thanks for all the answers


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Whether they can be saved at this point depends on where the damage is at. If it is in the main stem then probably not, but if it is just branches that are being killed then probably yes as long as you get the beasties under control before they get to the main stem.

If you main stem is undamaged and you want to save these plants it time to get serious. Hand picking and knocking in to soapy water and all that is great, but you don't appear to have much time remaining. I would use Sevin at this point. Not what I like to do, but you need instant control.

i was just outside and extracted, i believe, all the larva from most of the main stems of my squash, because thats where they were. I cut open the stems at and above the holes of the bugs and got a lot of larvae out, then covered the stem with dirt so that hopefully they will grow new roots, this is what it said to do from the link that ppod sent me. I wasn't able to save 3 because they were just so eaten away inside at the main stem. Do you think the ones that I was able to remove the larva from will come back to life?
Thanks again

also do you think if I took neem seed insecticidal soap that i have and sprayed it into the holes, would that kill the remaining larva if there are any?
Thanks

I’m hand squishing mine at this point and spraying Neem Oil and in between Castle soap and water to kill them at the base of the plant Also be sure and check your leaves regular like every single days on stems and in the V of the veins on the back of the leaves and remove the eggs off 1-2 times a Day is your best defense the minute you see them Thanks for the BT advice on keeping Borers at Bay!!

Squash bugs are very susceptible to soap spray. Provided they are completely covered, they - or their hoards of larvae - die within minutes. I use a mixture of rubbing alcohol, soap, water, and either cooking oil or maple syrup.

Insecticidal soap is best, but I've used both baby shampoo and dish soap... the latter two won't cause damage if they are rinsed off after the bugs are dead. The alcohol temporarily paralyses them on contact. The oil or syrup are asphyxiates, they clog the breathing holes & prevent recovery when the solution has dried.

This solution works on a wide array of insects, including wasps - it will knock them right out of the air. Also good for killing spiders outdoors; my house tends to get covered with large orb spiders right about now, I kill those near doors & walkways. I keep a spray bottle with me when working in the garden.

Zeedman's recipe is the one I use too. He posted the formula a few years back and I've been using it ever since on squash bugs, blister bugs, asparagus beetles, and stink bugs. It works great on a variety of little beasties as he said. I let the squash bugs get away from me on my winter squash last year and had to resort to seven because they were so bad.