Solarization is very unlikely to work.

Verticillium is in the soil and is very persistent as well as resistant to heat and cold.

Consider planting in containers which are off the ground, thereby avoiding contamination from the underlying soil.

Beyond that, how was it determined you have verticillium?

Here's detailed info from Cornell
http://vegetablemdonline.ppath.cornell.edu/factsheets/Tomato_Verticillium.htm

Here is a link that might be useful: Cornell blurb on verticillium

Here's info from the PNW Plant Disease Management Handbook (closer to home, but fewer details)

http://plant-disease.ippc.orst.edu/disease.cfm?RecordID=1091

Here is a link that might be useful: tomatoes & verticillium in PNW

Thank you for responding. I determined I have VW because the description and photos are exactly what I have. I have been growing tomatos for 15 years and never had anything like this. comparing to photos and description on Cornell website, I have a classic case.
Last night I transplanted all my tomatos to pots. I would like to try the compost tea suggested in my organic solutions book, but it says use mature compost and I have such bad luck with composting, I dont think I even know what mature compost is. Could I use some commercial compost for this? Does anyone know?
Thanks you.
Mary

I have such bad luck with composting, I dont think I even know what mature compost is. Could I use some commercial compost for this? Does anyone know?

There is plenty of information on this at the Soil Compost Mulch Forum. Browse the threads there and you'll learn more than you ever thought you would want to know. Compost is compost whether it is sold in a bag or home made. So long as it is completely composted. Make sure you use compost created from at least five different materials. If you purchase it, then you may have to purchase and mix five different types.

The better question is... what problems do you have with composting? How have you done it in the past? What do you use to contain it? What materials do you put in it and how often, etc.

You wrote:
"Last night I transplanted all my tomatos to pots."

Oh gosh. I hope those weren't from the garden where the other tomatoes were affected. If so, you have just moved the disease-causing fungus with the roots & soil from the garden.

To grow in pots successfully, you will need to start with fresh plants and fresh potting mix.

Beyond that, compost tea won't do a thing against verticillium. (Compost tea is said to be useful against leaf disease organisms.)

Same question, different replies, in the Organic Forum

http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/organic/msg071542025746.html?30361

Here is a link that might be useful: go to Organic Forum

Spokanegardener,

Have you taken samples in to the Plant Clinic at the Spokane Extension office down there on 222 N. Havana (just down from the fairgrounds. Do you see the characteristic black streaks within the stems if you cut into them lengthwise?
Also Don't rule out Root-knot Nematodes. Up here we have the Columbia, Barley and Southern RKN...Solanaceae crops are suspectible.
Some info...
Also you can find info in the PNW Disease Management Handbook at:
http://plant-disease.ippc.orst.edu/

and more info about VF and FW here...
http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/3000/3122.html
sorry you'll have to copy and paste these two URL's!

Good luck,

Vera
(south of Spokane)

Here is a link that might be useful: IPM~ucdavis.edu

Here are some additional observations about verticillium control besides those commented on above. As others have stated, there is no treatment for Verticillium wilt, but there are some cultural practices that can control it.

First, both horticultural cornmeal (not the grocery store variety) and corn gluten can be mixed in soils and soil amendments for bed preparation to control root and soil borne plant diseases. When corn gluten is used in bed preparation, seeds should not be planted in those beds for at least 60 days. Transplants, however, can be planted immediately. Using corn gluten in over-wintering beds can help control weeds in spring. Remember, corn gluten meal is a nitrogen fertilizer, so don't add any high nitrogen NPK fertilizer or plant food in those areas. Read more here at the Dirt Doctor: http://www.dirtdoctor.com/view_question.php?id=1959.

Secondly, phytoremediation of Verticillium in soil may soon be an inexpensive and most effective solution to its control. In a 1993-94 study, Verticillium was successfully managed in California where broccoli residues were incorporated into infested soil in which cauliflower was produced.

In general, members of the Brassicaceae contain glucosinolates that have either fungistatic or fungicidal properties and are responsible for the characteristic pungent odor in broccoli. The study also concluded that broccoli residue 'reduced the number of V. dahliae microsclerotia in soil regardless of the temperature, but the magnitude of reduction depended on the temperature' [at least 68 degrees F, 20C]. Also, fresh broccoli residue was considerably more effective than dry broccoli residue in suppressing Verticillium. Tilling in fresh broccoli residue or other members of the Brassicaceae family during in the Fall might become a best practice where broccoli residues can overwinter in a soil bed prepared for Spring planting.

Finally, other than growing in soil-less media, the two most effective and economic solutions for soil borne diseases and pests continue to be:

1. Using disease tolerant or resistant cultivars
2. Crop rotation

Here is a link that might be useful: BROCCOLI RESIDUE REMEDIATION, CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURE, VOLUME 54, NUMBER 3