I don't see why not. I planted crowns this spring and got berries several weeks later off of them.

Yes, plant your runners in neat rows now (with space between rows for walking). Mulch between rows. Next year, theyÂll yield a light crop. The following year (2009) theyÂll yield their heaviest crop. Also in 2009, their rooted runners get harvested and planted in a fresh bed, and the old plants get ripped out and composted.

In 2008, plant another bed of runners, so youÂll have a heavy crop every year. More details below.

My parents grew strawberries this way and always had a bumper crop.

In 2007, establish Bed One: plant runners in neat rows
In 2008: Bed One will yield smallish crop (remove all runners if any appear)
In 2009: Bed One will yield bumper crop. After cropping, harvest the rooted runners and plant in a fresh bed. Rip out old plants and compost.
In 2010: Runners planted last year will yield lightly
In 2011: Last yearÂs light yielders will yield heavily. Their rooted runners will be harvested and planted in a fresh bed. The old plants will get ripped out and composted.

In 2008, establish Bed Two: plant runners. This bed will yield lightly next year, and yield abundantly in 2010, the rooted runners get planted in a fresh bed, and the old plants get ripped out.

With this regimen, the grower has a high-yielding bed of strawberries every year.

I donÂt mean to say that Bed One and Bed Two should remain in the same location year after year. Rotation is probably desirable to avoid diseases.

The runners:
I was told that runners sapped strength from the parent plants, so I imagine that all runners were cut off immediately after they emerged while the mother plants were still producing berries. Then after berry production had ended, runners were left to grow roots. Then the rooted runners were harvested and planted in a fresh bed. The old mother plants were then ripped out and composted. (However, I canÂt be sure if some runners were allowed to root while the mother plants were producing berries.)

My parents grew two varieties, an early (light red in color) and a late (dark red). The early one was not all that tasty, but the late was superb. ItÂs name was Singa Singali, or Senga Sengali, or some other spelling. It may no longer be in production.

I was told that after two crops, strawberries donÂt yield well (which explains this planting regimen), but I donÂt know if it is true (of todayÂs varieties).

Good luck with your strawberries, and please let us know what you do and how it works out.

Sorry it's a bit rambling and repetitive....

I have everbearings and have had them for 5 years now. I've never made a new bed, nor ripped out the older plants. During my "strawberry season" I fill a 17 gallon bucket 3/4 of the way full every other day. JMTC.

The regiment I describe is probably not for everbaring strawberries but for the seasonal varieties.

Marquette,

Thanks for taking the time to write that out. It was helpful! One question, where do I get the runners for bed two in 2008? Maybe I should start with new plants for bed number two?

I should also say that I have a raised bed garden area for them. I have two 2x12 beds dedicated to my strawberries. I made two beds so I would always have at least one bearing heavily. Would this change how you suggest I should plant the strawberries? I think before I put in two rows of 6 in each bed. Does that sound okay? I don't have any other room since all of the other beds are four feet deep. I'm glad to know I can use these runners. Since I had two varieties, I left the variety that I liked and pulled all of the other bed's plants. I'm glad I can still plant them. Thank you.

Correction: My beds are three foot wide, not two.

"I have two 3x12 beds dedicated to my strawberries. I made two beds so I would always have at least one bearing heavily. Would this change how you suggest I should plant the strawberries?"

I think thatÂd work, (planting one bed now and the other bed next year), but think rotation also, so you donÂt get bogged down with diseases. Try and read up on strawberries and rotation.

"Two rows of 6 in each bed." You wouldn't need space for walking in your raised beds, and perhaps you could plant close (due to the raised bed situ) if the soil is excellent. Try googling distance needed, or look at web sites where they sell plants, or look at University Ag sites. I donÂt know the distance needed between plants.

"Maybe I should start with new plants for bed number two?" Yes I'd think so. Maybe someone else would post information about an excellent variety to grow, and a source. Or maybe there is a Berry Forum on GW or elsewhere?

You might also consider some everbearings in a third area if you could find room; they seem to be a lot less work, and the two types might compliment one another.

It would be helpful to know the size of Whatsthepoint's everbearing strawberry bed to gauge the yield against area planted. Name of variety would also be helpful, and information on how long they yield a "17 gallon bucket 3/4 of the way full every other day." And taste, of course.

I grew strawberries very successfully using a method I believe I found in "ORGANIC GARDING".

First plant a single roe 18 inch spacing with purchased plants.

Second, pick off all blooms and let the runners spread as the will. Fertilize in early fall.

Third, (second year) Pick berries. After harvest, run a tiller down the middle of the roe of plants leaving a slight border (roe) of plants on each side of your tilled area. Train the runners into the "just tilled" area to establish new plants for your next years crop. This is so easy and it works very well.

Sue Ellen