Don't know about garlic spray but BT works very well.

Me three on the Bt, and row cover at transplanting /emergence.

Dan

Thanks!
I place Bt dunks in my rain barrel, but have not used it otherwise. Do you all recommend a spray, and how often does it need to be applied?
Will try to be more organized about the use of row cover, but as I am usually trying to start new crops beneath older ones, that could make it tricky. These are plants (def. in the arugula case) of pretty much eating size, but the caterpillars are the ones enjoying the meal.

I used to be plagued by caterpillars on all my brassica, but not anymore.
This is my second year using Activated Compost Tea, sprayed liberally every other week. Having watched Cabbage whites all summer long, but never did see eggs being laid, I believe I have the problem licked.
Best greens I have ever grown is also a bonus.

Yes, you need to spray. It only works on contact.

I'd be interested to know which bacteria are in the compost tea that act as a repellant/predator against this critter. Which tea, beeman?

Dan

I use Bti (Bacillus thuringensis israeliensis) dust regularly on my brassicas and tomatoes from the time I put them in the ground. I just keep a shaker jar of it in the garden or in the garden shed, and every 10 days to 2 weeks, roughly, I walk through and shake, shake, shake. It actually takes a relatively small amount to be effective. One of the keys I've found is to do it high up, away from the plants, and when it's kind of slightly breezy/windy, so that it makes a pretty good little cloud that settles all around the plants. It;s also good to do it first thing in the morning when there is dew on the plants, I think that helps it to stick.

Works great for me, I rarely see either cabbage worms or tomato hornworms unless I slack off and forget to dust.

Alas, the flip side is I never see any black swallowtail or monarch larvae on my carrots or milkweed, either.

It only works on contact.

It must be ingested to work.

I use Bti (Bacillus thuringensis israeliensis)

Bti is only good for fly and mosquito larvae.
Btk is needed for moth and butterfly larvae.

Bti is only good for fly and mosquito larvae.
Btk is needed for moth and butterfly larvae.

I googled, you're right. Sorry for the misinformation.

For some reason, I swear many years ago Dipel wss labeled as Bti.

I could just be having a "senior moment" though.

Whatever it is, it works.

Row covers, row covers, row covers. I use them all summer for brassicas. Just keep them pinned down well with rocks or whatever. I don't know how I gardened without them.

Hi laceyvail,
Row covers makes at lot of sense. Do you make it yourslef, and how? Or do you buy it at store? Can you provide more info? Thanks.

Can you provide more info?

Here.

It must be ingested to work.

Yes, I answered too quickly and was unclear. My bad.

Dan

Thanks again.
I am going to try row covers in the spring. We'll have a frost soon enough to take out the remaining critters--and hopefully the chewed plants will bounce back.

Last year my kale was getting pretty chewed up by the worms, when I got vigilant about picking them off the plants bounced back well. This year I'd better use Bt.

dan_staley
You asked which 'Tea'.
I use both home made vegative compost and worm casts. So this would produce a bacterial/fungal tea, brewed for 36 hours with molasses as a food source.
The rest of my garden looks and feels terrific, compaction all gone, even when walked on!
Pity, you were the only one to ask, you're all missing a fantastic soil amendment if you're not using ACT.